Daniel

Ever notice you replace a brake part that requires bleeding the system,things work fine then your master cylinder craps out?The trick is to place a 2x4 or some sort of stop under the brake pedal before you start pumping to bleed the system.The master cyl.under normal operation does not go to the floor.Crud forms in the normally untouched area of the cyl. piston.When you go to the floor you damage the piston.Also ever get that slight squeak,squeak from your front brakes that stops when you just barely touch the brakes?Apply CLOTH duct tape to the brake pad(of course I mean the metal side!)and assemble as normal.It will be sandwiched between the pad and anti squeal plate.I've done this since '73.I get about 6000 miles out of a piece of duct tape.

How about,Why did you stop me?I don't have any doughnuts!

Thats a very debatable question.The standard rubber is more vibration resistant.Perhaps even a smoother ride.I don't know anyone that bought a 240 for the smooth ride.The aftermarket plastics do give better performance due to increased stiffness.Without a doubt you need to replace the steering coupler with the ABS unit.The rubber thats in there now is sloppy.Its just below your brake master cyl,looks like a doughnut..Its cheap and easy to replace.You will see a BIG difference.Although I use the term "plastics" to include both abs and urethane I suggest abs in the coupler.Have Fun! Daniel

Sounds to me like you have many hours of enjoyment before you require an answer to your questions.You first get it running/dependable.Since it has been sitting for years count on this.Radiator hoses are poor /all vacuum lines are hard/rotten/gas tank internal rust/rubber brake lines can't be trusted/rust ,moisture in brake system/clutch siezed/clutch hose at slave cylinder rotten/rear brake wheel cylinders leak,can't be trusted,front disc siezed/contacts in ignition switch,relays have oxidized,Some may say I over kill.If you can't be damn sure the car is ALWAYS going to stop,why waste your time,money fixing it up?If you do, your future email will read.Want to restore 73Z.Need front end metal and hardware.Have Fun Daniel

Thank You for the follow up.So many times people ask for help and never share the resolution.We all learn when we have a problem and a correct answer.Instead of a problem and a best guess.Have Fun!! Daniel

All that 2many says is good info(as usual).My suggestion is make sure the return spring IS THERE. The cables wear at the latch.They fray.If the cable looks good.Get your straw and do just as you did your carbs.Be glad yours won't close.When they won't open thats really a pain!The latch fills up with gunk over the years.Take it off and clean it .Look for bends in it.Its easy ,just remember to mark your spot so you can replace it there.Have Fun! Daniel

Would I be wrong in thinking that Instead of paying $200.00 for foam AND having to put humpty dumpty together,you could take your seat and cover to an upholstery shop.Save headache maybe save money also?Justa thought.

Piece of cake.On the intake behind the carbs are 4 screw holes(2per carb).Get a piece of aluminum used as flashing in the siding/roofing business(lowes/homedepo).Many colors/widths are available.Mine is 24 inches long and was 12 inches wide flat.Measure 3/4 inch in from the width.lay a 2x4(whatever)across your mark and bend to make an L.The 3/4 is what will attach to your intake you will cut out about 3 inches between the screw holes so in will slip up and clear the intake .Next make stairstep type bends.out 1 1/2 inches.down2 1/2 out 4 1/2.Be creative!Any time you bend metal it gives it strength.You'll see.Just make sure it covers you carb bottoms.For the springs drill holes thru your shield.Get longer springs.Attach spring to header with hose clamp.(no one can see it).You could make a Y type that attaches to the same carb holes as the shield to hold the spring,Be Creative!!Have fun!! Daniel

Here's a useless tidbit.It may be a myth,but it makes for a good story. When the Z car was coming out.The head of Datsun's favorite play was "My Fairlady" That's why the first Z's were called "Fairlady".As datsun thought of sending it to the USA they realized that "Fairlady was not a very macho name for the U.S. The work order number for the manufacture and production of the car was 240Z.The rest is history as they say.

Since the book says sae20.Use sae20.I bought my 73 240 new.I used ATF from 1973 thru 1985.That was what the "datsun" dealer was using.NEVER had a moments trouble.I later found some sae20 and went with that.As far as using the marvel mystery oil.I have some very knowledgeable engine technician friends that swear marvel IS ATF.Of course who knows the mystery.Look at them side by side and you'll go HUH!!NEVER USE power steering fluid. Daniel

Although the book says sae20 only for the carbs .If you use marvel mystery oil or auto transmission fluid every now and then your piston stays cleaner and your choke nozzles don't stick.I have a mechanic friend that loves to get tranny jobs on friday 'cause it cleans up his hands so well for the weekend!Same principal!

Assuming your points are good and set correctly/plugs are correct type and gap,here's the check list.On the air cleaner there is a large hose that goes to the exhaust manifold.This sucks heat to help when cold.Make sure is is not broken/disconnected.Check your choke cables and make sure they are really moving the chokes.I have had one get loose and caused a one carb choke,one not.Make sure you are getting full choke.The cables get stiff and can fool you.One trick for fixing that is disconnect the cables from the carbs.Cut a plastic drinking straw in half.Place the straw over the cable ends and duct tape to the cable.Bend a coat hanger to secure the cables and hang it from the latch on your open hood.Put oil into the straw and let it sit overnight.The next morning one finger will move the cables!!You may wish to pull your ashtray and slip some paper towels as best you can under the choke knob and slip some under console in that area as the oil will leak some.You don't need much oil.I usually use about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in the straw.The next item SU's love!!Remove the plastic carb tops.Remove the 4 screws that hold the "bell" on the carb.when you remove it slowlyand straight up pull the piston out.Do one carb at a time to keep the parts from getting mixed up.DO NOT set them on the needles.This is real easy.clean/replace.Replace lightweight oil/sae20 inthe carb tops.This is very basic very easy and the only way to screw up is to bend the needle.The piston has a slot in it and will one go in one way it is very visable.Have Fun!!! Daniel

Should you remove the wiper linkage it is an excellent time to clean the crap out of the wiper "pan"make sure the drain is clear and spray rust killer in the area.If that area rust thru it leaks into the car onto your feet.I believe in doing it right the first time and move on to something else.Hours of enjoyment aren't they mate?Have FUN!!! Daniel

What was the leak fix?On the wiper issue.Check your fuse.Located left side,second down,20amp.Check witha meter or replacement as visual can trick you.If blown either it got weak (normal wear) or died in the line of duty(doing its job).If bad replace and test.If it pops again.Remove wiper arms(noting how they are positioned)and test.I have seen them slip and jam due to incorrect position.If fuse isgood you need to check your switch.On the firewall/rear bulkhead(searching what your term is)Just slighty beside the hood latch there is a wire bundle going into the firewall.Those are the wiper wires.Disconnect the connector and check for voltage on/off caused by turning wiperswitch on/off.Remember the wire into the firewall is NOT thecorrect end to check!Got voltage? Remove slotted panel to get access to wiper area(Remove the visable screws, then it comes off easy)Check linkage for binding,lube linkage joints with spray lube.If still no go,remove the wiper motor and repair/replace.WARNING!!note the position of the linkageand wipermotor before removal.I didn't and when I hit my wipers they took off across my hood!!!Hope I didn't give to much info.If you want more just ask!Have Fun!!

lightly sandblast your bumpers.Then spray with epoxy primer.The sandblast just roughs up the bumper for the epoxy to adhere.I did mine black 11 years ago.Still look great.I think the window frame is stainless .I'll check with my paint buddy and see if the same will work.

The haynes manual says 8lb/ft.Factory gaskets work fine for stock exhaust.If you have a header or a very slight warp then use a header gasket,their a little thicker and more "forgiving".Of course make sure all surfaces are clean.Then liquid wrench the bolts and studs.Screw all nuts/bolt on without the manifolds.Sometimes worn/damaged/rusted threads cause your wrench to stop before the part is truly tight.Making certain all threads are good will eliminate this .Snug all bolts/nuts on first pass,then work from the center out in an x fashion.Drive car to normal temp and allow to cool .Recheck bolts/nuts.CAUTION,If you overtighten a hot bolt it can sieze/break as it contracts when it cools. Have FUN!! Daniel

Hi Mark,I would think by now this dash thing was resolved.Anyway,Removing the defroster panel on the dash will get you nothing but grief,no access to anything you can reach around too.You can gain access by removing the heater panel,you can also remove your engine to change the oil filter.Trust me!Unless youLOVE to work on your car,gain access thru the glove box.Keep it simple. Daniel

The filler neck,which is the part between your tank and petrol cap is rubber.That would be my first guess.It may be torn or the clamp loose.There are also two hoses on top of the tank that go to the expansion tank(air vent).I would think your leak is due to rotten rubber/loose clamp.If it is the tank it can be easily repaired."No worries"

Marty would you be interested in a 70 that was not dented that you could rechrome?

yes you can apply battery +/- to the gauge to test.it should go full and stay.If it doesn't move or "floats"remove the gauge,remove the plastic face and remove the tiny screws that hold the gauge face on.You'll then see what looks like a tiny set of points.Carefully clean them with a burnishing tool (ultra fine emory board/radioshack) and recheck gauge.All the guages work the same.The points that work my temp and oil pressure,I cleaned and that stopped the "float".When I put 12v to my open fuel gauge I could see a small arc across the points.I had to solder a wire across the point to fix it as the points were gone.I assume the point deal was to make for easy factory assembly.My wire around has worked great since I did it in about 1980.Be very careful.I felt like a heart surgeon.They are fragile.

I have a friend that did have some 70 seats .I'll check with him.I had my seats redone some years ago.The matching vinyl was easy to find.The problem was the 4 chrome breather vents in each seat.I found brass ones are used in the furniture business as vent for vinyl cushions.I had 10 chromed seat man messed up 1 used 8. Daniel

What year?Or what style I should say.The early had round knobs for moving the seatback(incline).Later had a lever.

I agree with 2manyz.That extra switch is/was for some sort of security device.The click you hear when you turn the key is a normal/good thing.It is the relay that suppiles power to your gauges and such.It is just like turning a "standard' car ignition switch to the ON position.The fuel pump should come on when the switch is in the ON position.Not because the battery is connected.If the battery is switching it on I would strongly suggest disconnecting the pump until all these wiring issue are resolved.Playing with electricity while suppling pressurized gas to the same area is not good.You have already found enough problems to warrant extra fire caution.Be safe,Have fun!! Daniel

I'm a 240 man but,I do know on fuel inj.cars(ALL cars)There is a shut off circuit breaker for the pump that is tripped if the car bumps something.This is to stop the pump from pumping fuel in the event of an accident.I'm sorry I don't know where it is but thats where I would start.Oh yeah,What did ya bump?Fess up. Daniel:)

battery positive to the solenoid(pill bottle looking thing on top of starter)Also #10 size wire that has connector.Battery ground goes to one of the bolts that mount the starter to the "motor"(the part is called a bell housing).Why it burnt?Bad/weak starter.Bad/weak wire connections at starter,bad /weak battery,Bad battery wires,Someone kept trying to start the car and stayed on the starter far to long.Problem with motor causing strain on starter.Good luck! Daniel