messenger

I understand the front end bias issue in theory. But on my car when I get on the brakes about as hard as you would ever possibly be on them the rear end locks first. It is actually rather scary, I have never had a car that the rears locked up first. The rear end starts to step out.

That is a interesting point of view. 4% piston area huh, well lets not forget about the size of brake pad. I dont have them side by side in front of me but off memory I would wager to say the 4x4 pad is roughly 30-40% larger. Can anyone disagree that a larger pad would make more contact with rotor thus causing more friction? :stupid: Also the piston size does come into play like you mentioned, but the fact that you have 4 pistons compressing larger pads instead of 2 pistons and smaller pads makes a huge difference. The clamping force is more evenly distributed across the pad.

Hi, I am located in the northern area. The calipers I got are just 1980 4x4 "truck" calipers, sounds silly I know but that is what they refer to them on the website.

I have the 1980 toyota 4x4 4 piston calipers up front. They where 36 dollars each from autozone fully loaded with pads the whole deal. I never drove the car with the stock setup so as for a major difference im not sure, but for the price you can't really go wrong. Oh and as for a core I just put my Z calipers in the box and they didnt even question it.

Eric check this link out. http://www.gamefaqs.com/console/ps2/game/561066.html They have all the prize cars listed, as well as all the cars that are available in the used section and when they are available.

The car drives alot more realistically with all the aids off. Once you get the hang of it it drives alot better. Im waiting for my 1/4 mile time to go down now.

The white Z is kick arse. How did you get it I can only get the red one you win. I have not scene a white one anywhere in the game. Also who makes the wat's? 7:13 around the ring huh im going to have to step it up Do you have all the aids off or on? I run all aids off and also im stuck with a regular controller.

Yea that setup is nice. What are you guys using to mount these too? I was thinking of making some kind of wooden cockpit style mount for one.

Maybe it is set up for drifting? Alot of people get this game soley to drift. Here is a forum dedicated to gt4 drifting. There are some pretty good drifting videos on there as well, people just use a analog capture card to upload most of them. http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=141 I took the 240 around Nurburgring, ended up doing it in 8:08 pretty bad it was late. Im going to give it a few more shots, low 7 minute time's should be possible with the car.

Here is one I found real quick, it is the japan version of gt4 but the car looks the same. It also has a 78 280z, im not sure how to obtain it yet but i raced one so im sure it is in the game.

Hmmm talk about streotyping. Im 6'2" 185 pounds hardly fat, also im a bicycle messenger I usually ride about 50-60 miles a day on my bike. So lets just say im probally in better shape than about 90% of the general population. I do like to sit in front of my CRT after a long hard day at work and play gt4, for this I apoligize. Sorry for my little rant. Back to the game I just ran the 240zg in the 1/4 the best time I could manage was a 10.869 not to shabby.

Just wondering how many people are stuck in front of there tv playing gt4 like me. This game is awesome, it has an amazing selection of cars and tracks. I just beat the 70's japan cup with a 240zg. I am currently at 24% with all the license's except the super class. We should start posting some datsun times, such as 1/4 mile and maybe the Nurburgring. Which is probally one of the most amazing tracks.

HA, man and I thought ricers only came out in the last 10 years or so. What a shame.

Sorry for digging this up, but im about to sell my enkei's and im not even sure if there are 92's anymore. I was wondering if I could get some input from you guys as to what model they are. I have attatched some pictures, thanks for the help.

What exactly are the compression number's on the #3 and #4 cylinders?

I ordered a pertronix electronic ignition and a pertronic flame thrower coil. Thats should increase the spark a bit. Is the capacitor done away with when i switch to the pertronix?

Thanks, that sounds like it may be the case. What would be the best way to go about inspecting the brushes, do I have to remove the alternator? I tried to look with a flashlight but i could not really see anything.

Update, The car is still fouling plugs. I think i can rule out the vaccum advance plate since i checked it. It seems to be in working order and the car is fouling plugs at idle in under a minute. I cleaned the carbs, synced and readjusted them, checked float levels, replaced fuel line. They also seem to be in 100% working order. FYI, I watched the ztherapy video. I pulled a plug out the other day and the spark looked to me to be weak and erratic when i held it up to the block. The weak spark idea seems to be the only possible answer now. Althought i have changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires, battery, plus cleaned all battery and ground connections. I checked the base timing a while ago that seemed to be in check. I want to verify if the line i was looking at on the crank pulley is correct, just to make sure my eyes are not playing tricks on me. Does anyone know what size bolt the crank pulley is so i can line it up on TDC and make sure? I checked my manual but could not find anything. Once again here are the stats, the car is fouling plugs in under a minute at idle, with or without the choke on. All of the plugs look to be fouled equally. And just incase you did not see in my earlier post the compression test was right on. Thanks for any and all help. -jared

Junkyard engines are a tough call. It is alaways good to see the car in person the motor is being pulled from, that way you can verify things like how long the car has ben sitting in the yard and the "real" mileage. If you go see the car in person it is always nice to figure out why the car is there in the first place. If the car is in perfect conditon cosmetically you have to wonder "why is this thing here in the first place"? It is always good to see the car smashed in the side or rear end, that way you can at least assume it ran decent until it met its end. Front end collisons are sometimes ok but can cause harm if the car was driven with lack of fluids, or obvisouly the engine it's self may have ben hit.

Jayru, I to am coming off a 4g63 with roughly 400hp. You have to understand these cars are a completly different animal, for one there about 20 years older than our 4g63's. The main reason your not going to see a large horsepower increase in a 240 compared to your gvr4 is the lack of a turbo. I have always known if you want to make cheap large amounts of power in the import world a factory equipted turbo is really the only way. To me this car is not about straight line power, its more about having fun and simplicity. For now I will be happy with my l24, but im sure the day will come when I want a turbo again.

hahah that ebay ad is a joke. Well my wheels are aluminium colored, the center caps are chrome with a black mesh like center where it says enkei. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Thanks, -jared

My Z came with a set of Enkei 92's on it, they are 14x6 i believe and in decent shape with all center caps. I am thinking of getting some 15's for the car. Are these rims worth anything? Are they OEM or aftermarket from the 70's, maybe a dealer option perhaps? Just looking for some basic info on them is all. I did some searching around but did not discover much. Thanks, -jared

I don't think these are factory Nissan or Z therapy carb lines. What do you guys think? Looks to me that someone replaced them somewhere down the road with just regular fuel line and some hose clamps. The nozzle on the front carb is awfully gummed up looking, when I touched it I would get ATF from the carbs all over my fingers. I guesse it is leaking.

EScanlon, so your saying that there is another vaccum advance plate at the bottom of the dizzy, Under all of the counterweights? I have checked the one that the points bolt to, it has 3 ball bearings and I would assume it is the vaccum advance plate. Considering it is hooked into the vaccum advance diaphram. Maybe I am incorrect in my assumption but it seems correct. I should have mentioned earlier I did rev it up pretty hard. I brought it up to 3500-4500k very fasy on quite a few occasions. It revs nice and smooth. Oh yea on more thing, don't think this car is gonna end up on ebay for 500. bucks. I'll drop a good ole' 4g63 in there long before that happens something I am a little more familiar with

double post.