Rick Bolus
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Everything posted by Rick Bolus
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Keep in mind one thing about urethane, it will put more stress on those already weak and internally rusted or prior repaired frame sections, I know it first hand, 1536 has all off its mounts twisted or pulled out from the steel heim joints i used on it with the urethane bushings, konis and mulholland springs. The rubber is just easier on the car and the sacrifice is minimal in performance.
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I have started listing a lot of my old Z stuff which includes at last count 6 early ashtrays..keep your eyes peeled on my ebay auctions user name is weekendrides, usually i only list Porsche parts and rebuildable 911's on ebay, but every once in a while we put some z part up and last week decided to get rid of all of the Z parts once and for all after we moved them for the last time. I bought a new building for the Porsche business and am bent on getting rid of EVERYTHING Z car related I have horded for last 29 years.
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Guys if you have an old collection of Road and Track sitting in the garage might follow up on this bit of memory recall. Regarding 17, I was on the trail of it around 1980. It was in upstate NY where I have bought a couple early very low VIN cars from and through a racer then Tim Douthat, who was building Z cars in a chicken coupe in Shohola PA, near the NY Border. Anyway, I had bought a low VIN green wreck in 1976 one from Tim, and the ad for it was in R & T. I was a day late when I called the owner. Regarding the no VINS on a shell, I doubt the factory failed to stamp the firewalls as they went down the line or pulled one out to keep as a race car since the first ones were used for racing all had VINS and were taken apart here by Sharp. Non VIN body's would have been illegal to export or to even ship let alone get through customs.
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Dan I am about 5 hours from Pitt if you go across I 80 to I 81 North, or pa pike to PhillyBurbs and north on NE Extension. On I 80 its 2:22 minutes by good Z car from Penn State.
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Hi Xray, the photos on ebay show the floors, I don't have a nice grill or a front bumper, They are on ebay all the time figure 300 dollars should do it for a nice new one. Grills go for around 25 dollars used. Gasket sets are around 200 but you do not need the windshield or hatch one, they are new and installed already. Anyone who needs more photos just ask and i will send them. Mainly the passenger side of the floor under the interior sound deadener has some rust holes, it does not need full floors or anything like that, just cut soome flat sock, bend it and weld in place where the metal has some early fatigue. Hope this helps, but look at the photos on ebay, or in my gallery. It is the yellow one in the gallery I am selling for now. Thanks, Rick
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Guys I listed my one 72 Z, the yellow one which is in my gallery. I put it on ebay earlier, feel free to check it out or pass it on to a friend who wants an easy finish project. I would like to see it go to one of the club guys. I just have no time for this one and have lost my interest in Z cars. I have two XKE's projects in my garage right now and want an Italian with 12 cylinders instead of a bunch of Z's to drive when its nic out. I probably will be selling my orange 72 soon too. Here's the link, its a good well done restoration, and the good news is all the hard work is done. Just finish up the interior some exterior work and some easy details and enjoy it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-240Z-Proper-Restoration-Done-Easy-to-Finish-PA_W0QQitemZ4592334257QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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We wipe down and seal with Glazurit sealer, it is a green colored spary, see some of my resto pictures to see it. You can see it on my XKE pictures too. It holds down everything. When we do our work over that then reseal again, pretty simply put it is creating a "sandwhich" below the final promers and surfasers then paint. The minimal dust and media stuff cleans out and with multiple visits to our spray booth it is all held down anyway with oversprays. I suggest NEVER putting any of the moisture trapping evil horsehair down unless you show the car and want to win a point, then take it out immediately..
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I have a couple E31's and a complete 82 turbo engine
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In our booth, spraying sealers and high build primer, lots of block sanding and guide coats. -
Fixing the rust then lots of Por 15 -
Here I spliced in a nice used quarter section from one of my parts cars. -
Bob Sharp Modified Z cars like this years ago, his trademark was the 2 oil filters, we replaced the squirell eaten hoses with SS. -
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These are the Chromadora wheels,, I have never seen another set on a Z. -
I have a couple nice ones drop me a line, rick@eurasianperformance.com
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I just had the ones for my 72 done from a motorcycle shop herein PA who send them to New Jersey. They ran me $800 with 4 nice guards being done. They were a decent set of originals, one suggestion I have is make sure you are not replating some repro ones which are like reynolds wrap. I coat the backside with Por to keep them from rusting. Plating is very dificult science to the untrained eye, since they are all shinny when you get them back. Z bumpers never had great metal so you need to find a shop who can work out the imperfections during the copper part of the process. I had Pauls chrome in PA do some for my 70 AMX and they lost a rare part and claimed they never had it even though we included a drawing and list of parts in the box and they signed it and faxed it back. Keep this in mind if you send parts out.
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Those who emailed me and asked about the color, it is 2003 Dodge Viper Yellow, very transparent and extremely dificult to cover. We use Sikkens sealers and high build primers in our shop. The base color and clear are Glazurit. This is a tricolor. Don't try spraying this color unless you have a lot of experience or your shop uses it often. You will need deep pockets for the paint, it is very expensive. We actually used over a gallon and a half of paint and a gallon and a quart or so of clear, which is three times what we would normally use. I would try it in a diferent brand than Glazurit if you like the color. I know a few guys who have had nothing but headaches spraying this color on street rods . We had a few with the flash time on this Z as you can see in the primer stripes over the second coats of color. I sprayed a stripe on my powerboat which has some thin stripes of all my sports cars with it and we ended up re-doing that twice after the yellow started bleeding to a green color. The color is very rich and deep with a great result if you take lots of time and pray to the Goddess of Z cars. -
The roof had a lot of old dents init, we spend several days just block sanding the high build to get it right. -
Here we painted just the shell of the roof and quarters, made sure we por 15 the inner structure inside and out witht he fenders off. -
We found a couple low parts or chips and had to reprime and repaint this area. Often once in the first coats of paint you see a chip, we fixed it now instaed of living with it -
we had a paint flash time problem with some lifting here and had to reprep everything -
We spent a lot of time cutting out several inches of old bondo in this tail light corner, we reworked the steel. and a lot of fitting to get it nice.
