gnosez

Just my $0.02 worth regarding mounting the intake and exhaust before you put the engine in the car. I have never found it to be a fun thing to do bent over the fender trying to get one of the exhaust bolts/nuts on right. For me it's much easier to do it on a stand where I can rotate the engine to gain the best possible angle (notice best possible not the best angle). In the course of a race season I might have an engine in/out 3-4 times. Even a single swap is done the same way. Blew head gasket at Summit Point in May, swapped in the back-up motor and am waiting on a new head gasket so I can do The Glen with a few more HP in October.

Scott K in #202. Very fast driver in a very well sorted out 240. Telemetry and a coach with a driver who listens and isn't afraid to wreck his car (as long as no one else is around) while he tries to be faster in one segment of the track or another.

Diff plug removal tool (1/2-inch bar stock)

You can get the plugs (both styles) from Subaru cheaper than from most others.

I'm replying on just the issue of blocking off the elbow that normally goes to the heater core and the concern that it will cause an overheating issue. My race car has no heater and that elbow has been removed and plugged. While we have blown head gaskets (13.5+:1 CR) it hasn't been related to overheating. On a car that sits at idle in traffic on a hot day, I agree that it should circulate.

Adam owns it now. It is one of a kind however.

The Camel GTU is not actually a race car. I have the order sheet from BSR to Tilton for the gnose and other parts.

Clone bought by Bob and repainted to his color scheme then sold. Nicely done and well sorted.

Both the window net and the air scoop from that BSR 280 CP race car now reside on my 240Z race car. Neither make me as fast or as good looking as PLN.

My uncracked 1972 dash has only been cleaned with windex and then treated with baby oil. You can see where it soaks in as it dries out quickly. I then add a bit more and wipe it down.

We've been using an N42 head for the past 4 years on the L28 race engines with great success. These have had extensive work done with race cams and all parts cyrotreated and REMed. CRs range from high 12s to mid 13s running on either 110 or 112. The L24 has an original BSR E31 that we duplicated for $$$. Which is better? That's really hard to say since there are so many variables with the biggest being the driver. Dyno time (engine) is not cheap and the best chassis dyno is not close enough to play "let's swap heads to see if we can get 3 more HP".

Making the driver in front of me "drive harder" is my go-to approach when running against heavy metal V8s. I normally run in either the Big Bore group (under 5L) or in an all comers group with cars ranged from 50 to over 500hp. Getting them to go deeper puts that much more wear on their brakes until a few more laps in they start to fade. The big block guys are too quick for me to stay with but those small block V8s, they're catchable. on occasion. Looking forward to getting the car out in May.

The one on the bottom looks like a Datsun Comp NLA equal length header.

A great set-up and pass at the 5 minute mark finally getting past a tail happy Porsche.

They suck! LL Bean Boot-Mobile rules....on second thought the Moxie "Horse" car was better.

You can try something like these: Design Engineering DEI 010451 DEI Titanium Pipe Shield with LR Technology | Summit Racing Thermo-Tec 11676 Thermo-Tec Stainless Steel Clamp-On Heat Shields | Summit Racing I have the Thermo-Tec on my race car dual exhaust which sits directly under my feet. No interior heat shield or carpet. Without the heat shield the floor would reach 145 degrees and with the shield 100. I will likely go with a sheet of aluminum and stand offs to give me an air cushion with another layer of protect like gold film on the bottom. I use the same one on my street Z but at least I have dynomat and a carpet to help.

They did. The second #33 BSR 240Z was modified to use a straight bar. I have two of them in my garage (1.10 and 1.25 diameters). They hole sawed both engine bay rails welded in a tube and suspended the bar thru the tubes.

A 510 at Watkins Glen had a small fire that upon investigation started by the distributor. The owner and others had never seen it happen before. Connected to this post?

My observations on the Phillips Island video as related to similar HP track days here in the USA: The difference in performance seems to me more related the driver's ability and not the car they were driving. Only a few were track prepped and I suspect on street tires, maybe even high performance tires but not race tires. Unless you have done a lot of track days having a "race" car in your rearview mirror can cause folks to let you go by so they can concentrate on their own driving. I race with a few vintage groups and they operate in one of two ways; specific classes based on HP and car performance (in the day in the USA such as A, B and C production SCCA cars) which run as a single group. It can also be B, C & D production with AP big block cars running by themselves or with others cars (lots of Zs , 911s and 914-6s). The other grouping is a mish mash of cars ranging from a 70 Camaro, a 911, a 930 turbo, 240/26/280 Datsun Zs, an Alfa GT V6, a Shelby GT350 Mustang, IMSA corvette, a 65 Barracuda or a Datsun 510. Each is in a different subgroup but on the track racing at the same time. My 72 Datsun with a fully race prepared L28 is only 2-7 seconds off the pace depending on the track and conditions (wet vs dry). As a Datsun driver I admit to getting a kick out of beating a Porsche (when I can) in the same manner that Bob Sharp, Sam Posey and Jim Fitzgerald did in their Datsuns. I use the later rear spoiler from the Sharp #33 car to remind a Porsche driver who's in front of them.....

Bushings or bearings or both are what's needed? I love the idea of a better ratio and resultant feel.

There's no similar brass bearing anywhere or at least the complete dimensions and specs?

He's using an aftermarket Wilwood MC and the rod is not always at the right length when you take them out of the box.

You need to bleed the MC first which you can do either on the bench or in the car. You need to be able to see fluid come out of the MC and it will be messy so plan accordingly. You also might have an issue with the rod being too short to completely compress the MC.

Putting it into 1st and then into reverse is my way to limit any grinding. There those three bolts in the sandwich plate between the bellhousing and the main/tail section. There is a spring and ball bearing that is use as an indent. Too much pressure and the shifter is locked in place. Too loose and it will come pop right of gear without much effort. Those springs in most trannies have never been replaced. I'm not saying this is the cause of your issues but it's one more thing to consider. I solved my problem by getting a longer bolt and a few washers. A little trial and error got the issue fixed that is until it grenaded several race days later caused by me not any of the repairs. Rebuilt and back in in a week.