gnosez

It is. You'll need to trim it but it works just fine and it looks good (to me anyway) as it covers the shifter all the way to the knob.

Use the ZX inner shifter boot which was made to allow for a 5th gear position. A 280 5spd will work too but I've found the ZX is less restrictive. I found this out when the shifter would pop out of 5th when I lifted using the 4-spd inner boot. Thought it was the tranny but was happy to find out it wasn't. The ZX outer, trimmed works just fine in a 240 console.

What ratio is that 2015?

Thanks for sharing this. Can someone share pictures of a Portuguese market 240Z so I can compare them to other European , Japanese and US models.

I hope you wore a mask and gloves as the old grease had lead in it.

Holley provides an "L" bracket that the regulator can be secured to. A line to or from the carbs and the tank along with perhaps a pressure gauge means that if you don't mount the regulator to the "L" bracket it will be held by fuel lines.

Hard mounting those Holley regulators caused me a royal PITA until I let it float in the mount. After the race I got an Aero regulator and it has not been an issue. I have gotten several comments from others saying not to hard mount a Holley so I have to go with the flow (no pun intended). One of them was Dave Rebello.

Those deposits on the magnetic drain plug are not unusual for a car with those miles. If you are strapped for cash, replace it for now, get yourself another diff, rebuilt it and put it in when you have the time. On jack stands the diff can be swapped in under 3 hrs. Do it enough and it takes 1.5hrs. The Subaru diffs are nice and you might want to consider replacing the bearings (side at a min) and seals before installing it. You'll need the R180 front coupler (goes to the driveshaft) so you'll be more than half-way to taking the unit apart and I'd replace the pinion bearing too along with the front seal. The K R180s in either 4:11 or 4:38 make your Z very responsive but you'll be hitting the redline sooner. I have both with a Quaife and Giken installed. Performance with the Giken is better but I'm not sure it's $500. better (read quicker).

Off the top of my head, I'd say that was the crash at The Glen which ended his racing days. He says he woke up in the helicopter as it was flying to the hospital in Elmira (?) and doesn't remember what happened.

I had a dead battery on the race car and just plugged in the jump battery when I needed to start it. Not sure why the kill switch would inhibit the ability to jump start an engine.

Ditto what the Chickenman wrote....

The race car has a one piece FG valance. A mold can be made if folks are looking for them. Have a 280Z one piece as well.

I have a Rebello 42 head on an L28 block w/triples with no issues making more HP.

The FG ones that Bob Sharp sold were so thin if a butterfly hit it while you drove down the highway it would crack. I had three layers of cloth added to an original BSR air dam to give it the strength needed for track events.

It snowed yesterday as I took the race car back to the garage but the good news is that we are now 5 sets away from 2,000 frame rails sold. Whoever ends up buying the 2,000th set, and anything else purchased along with them, will get a complete refund.

Come on! Maybe two cans of compound, a buffer and that car will be ready to roll.

I believe the folks in Colorado are higher...but I agree that elevation data would be useful. Owner of three sets of Mikuni/Solex (two 44 and a 40). Both 44mm are race prepped with one of the two a set from the #33 BSR that has been heavily modified (no inner venture just a brazed in bend tube spitting gas through an 3/16th hole which translates in a simple truth - never lift)

Granny - are those impacts? That was my idea as they're softer. I was going to weld two pipes to the socket for leverage. The issue really is holding the strut in position. I used two 4x4s lag bolted together with holes drilled for the 4 lugs to sit in and then clamped the whole thing to my workbench.

Better. A rule of thumb regarding driver ID: blue on bottom - Paul, blue on top - Bob (who by the time this photo was taken had stopped racing)

What does a competition oil pan gasket look like?

Nice....I have a dozen or more shocks to remove.

So the first thread is from 2013 which would be 11 years after I talked to John. The second I never saw. Point taken, however.

As much as I like and respect Jon, there isn't a 5-gal container of Swepco in my garage because he recommended it but rather because John did and it's what I have been using for over 14 years regardless of Old Rusty's synco failure. I can even tell you what I was doing (cleaning parts) and where I was standing (work bench in my garage) when we had that phone conversation. And yes, my wife who doesn't remember things thinks my ability to do so isn't always helpful in our marriage does uderstand it comes in handy when I'm asked to testify about an investigation that took place years ago. The 240 street tranny hasn't been rebuilt in 15 years and the race car is now on it's 5th year and it would have been longer if not for a shift into 1st instead of 3rd. So synco issues were not the cause of the rebuild. But folks should use whatever floats their respective boats.

Any Datsun/Nissan tranny (1970-83) normally used in an S30 weren't made to use new style gear oil which is why Redline M/T or Swepco & ATF is often recommended (the late John Coffey said either was what he used). Several places sell it such as - http://www.paragon-products.com/Swepco-201-Transmission-Fluid-p/swepco-201.htm Grinding could be a clutch fork or slave issue if it's just one gear change but a synco can't be ruled out. As to getting the filler and drain plugs loose, the drain is the easiest with a 1/2-inch breaker bar and a short section of pipe for leverage while the filler plug seems to resist just about anything you throw at it. With the car on jack stands I use a small Sears jack that has a cup which hold a 17mm wrench within the cup and the other end on the plug. Jacking up the wrench usually does the trick. Now filling can be an issue especially if you are under the car pumping away waiting for gear oil to spill out. Instead I fill from the top using just the right amount of gear oil which I measure out before starting.