gnosez

If you can either post a picture of the rails or take some rough measurements we should be able to come up with a fix for you. Start at the tail end of the rail and measure the length up to the front of the firewall (as it slopes upward). Exact is not necessary just yet. The 2+2s made from 74 through 76 had the coupe frame rails (think about that for a moment) and at some point in 77 they made them longer on I believe the passenger side. I have not seen that many later 2+2s and those that I have seen had already by repaired by someone fabbing up something. I'm sure there were OEM replacement rails available back in the day but I have never seen any for sale.

Bad Dog Parts began selling frame rails to Z owners who wanted something stronger to handle the added stress of more HP, autocrossing or track events. The 2016 father-son 240Z team that won their class in the grueling Beijing to Paris race did so with a set of front and optional rears installed by the late John Coffey, Stacey Davis on GearZ TV installed our 280 rails because he wanted the extra strength to handle the supercharged Ford V-8 he was installing and hundreds of Z owners from Alaska to Florida, Sweden to New Zealand, Canada to Norway and Australia to England now run on Bad Dog Parts. So on a long drive last week I began to wonder just how many sets of rails we’ve sold since 2003 and was surprised to learn that Bad Dog Parts is now just thirty (30) sets of 240/260/280 frame rails shy of 2000 sold. To help us get to the 2000 set milestone we decided to offer everyone a discount and two lucky Z owners an opportunity to get Bad Dog Parts for free. Starting February 16th, both our 240/260 frame rails and 280 rails will be discounted 10% off the current selling price of $230 and $244, respectively. The cost for a single 240/260 or 280 rail is half the prices shown above minus the 10% discount. In addition, the set of optional 240 rears made for those of you who have added more HP, drive your Z real hard or just want a stronger chassis will also be discounted 10% . All of our produced parts costs include shipping within the lower 48 States. For those of you outside of the lower 48, we will get a shipping quote and add just the difference between a delivery in the lower 48 to one say in Canada, Germany or Australia, etc. and email you the added amount for your approval before shipping. Bad Dog will keep these prices in place until the 30th set (or 60th individual frame rail piece) is sold. So what about getting my parts for free ? There’s two ways that will happen. As each order comes in they will get a random number assigned from 1 to 60 with folks who order a set getting two numbers. Once all 30 sets are sold a number will be selected at an upcoming Z Car Club of New England gathering and the person with the winning number will have the cost of their frame rails refunded. The second way is when the 60th individual frame rail piece has been sold and the person who placed that order will get a refund back from Bad Dog just like the random number winner but with an added incentive. If say the person who ordered that 60th piece also ordered a set of seat brackets, optional rears, sway bar and jack plates, then the entire cost of that order will be refunded. The total for that order with both the discount and shipping comes to $673 (240 fronts & rear rails - $333, seat brackets -$250, sway bar plates-$35 and single point jack plates- $55). Two people will get free Bad Dog parts and the odds aren’t anything like the lottery where it’s several million to one. You needed the frame rails anyway so why not take a chance on getting them for free. I guess the worst case is that your Z would now be sporting new frame rails. And to all the folks who were order #54 or #1489 and made this possible, we at Bad Dog Parts truly appreciate your patronage and support. Thank-you.

What does it smell like (coolant, oil)? Carbs or FI? If carbs is the coolant tube leaking? It ONLY happens when you start it? More info will help someone smarter than me figure this out....

Car is heavier now so you might think about adding more HP. A warm engine is a happy engine.....

Back then I was running projects that took me away for months at a time and we would hire a local person to handle all the paperwork, calls, etc. We had to let her go and she ended up making calls to my house and saying things that weren't true. Wife was pissed about my being away, then this and when I didn't make it back for her birthday she had the VW towed to a scrap yard where they took the engine out along with the tank and pressed the rest into a rectangle which they deposited in the front lawn.

October !974, 260Z purchased from Bob Sharp's dealership for $5280 I believe which included taxes and fees. Stolen and stripped 14 months later. I personally saw two street sweepers trying to yank the wheels off as I got there with the police after someone called them. The engine and tranny, interior, doors, hood and most of the glass was gone or damaged beyond repair. I took my VW Porsche powered MicroBus out of storage and used it for a year before it was crushed by my (ex)wife after she thought I was cheating on her. I wasn't and she bought me a restored Volvo 544 with a B16 engine as a made-up gift. At times I waffle as to which one I would want back if I could only choose one of them. I think a good 544 might be the cheapest one to buy today.

Hard to do a consistent "hot" valve adjustment since by the time you get to the last one it's a whole lot cooler than the 1st one you did. The valve train wouldn't change temp during a "cold" adjustment unless you got really warm hands.

ZCCA has two classes for their "Gold" awards, stock and everything else, with stock being the hardest to achieve since not only does your Z have to be pristine in appearance, it also has to be completely stock or you lose points. Cleanliness is next to winning in all the other classes (street mod, Nissan mod, ultra mod and daily driver). Doesn't make a difference if you have a purple painted engine block with yellow stripes, if it's clean and undamaged judges can't deduct points. Now paint drips, orange peel, missed spots, those can cost you points. You might want to reconsider or maybe just go out and flog the thing....

Jerry - given both the rarity and price do you plan on putting some serious miles on these calipers? I guess the better question would be will you drive your Z less if you install them? I was told that a Toyota SW could be massaged, by that I mean machined, to look very much like an FIA caliper. Vintage racers might have done this. You could swap the real ones in for a show, etc.

My grandmother, to whom I owe my right foot driving style, believed that wrestling wasn't staged (this is late 1950s) and was thrown out of the local arena after hitting one of the pro-wrestlers over the head with a folding chair when he landed in the front row. I can remember his exact words as he looked at his hand with a small amount of blood on it - "Lady! Don't you know this isn't real!!". Those sales tips are ancient and at the same time correct, at least for the period in question. There was no formal training for car salesmen back then just what worked yesterday just might work today.

Just being able to see the driver's helmet (and not their face) how could you determine if it was Bob or Paul driving?

How could I have missed moi? Indeed, how could I. Sorry. My best defense is that my vision gets tunnel-like with a migraine headache. Jason, my recommendation is to get an FSM, read it and everything else you can find here and on other sites and then come back with the things you can't figure out. Good luck.

Might I say, I have nothing to add or for that matter had any useful information to provide to start with, but wanted to commend SteveJ, the Captain and our new member Jason for showing why this is a great forum. A request for help written in a manner understandable to others and then really great replies that even I understood that provided a workable answer. (Insert the sound of two hands clapping) It's been a horrible day and this cheered me up.

TrackR is a total waste of money.....I am looking at Tile right now.

I have used 100, 50, 30 and 10mm for my 44mm Mikunis with the 50 and 30s giving the best overall power with an ample amount of space for the filter depending on the engine (L24 & L28 with different heads and cams)

Line bore (crank), machine the deck, ARP main bolts and verify piston to wall gap (the wrong assumption regarding expansion caused us a set of new in the box custom pistons that were from the parts we got from BSR) I want to say most but will settle for many L-series engine don't make peak HP or torque over 7000rpm so there is no reason to wind out your new engine to redline with every shift.

Along with a large pile of parts from the 240/280 (Vin - 00008 )BSR race car was a box of files and notebooks (dyno sheets, shop and track notes, etc.) and one roll of undeveloped B&W 35mm film. I was very surprised and pleased to see what was on that roll. To my knowledge there isn't anything else like it on the web to show how the cars were built to survive their time on the track. Given that Scotty Sharp drove that car and won against purpose built tube frame cars into the 1990s is proof enough for me that what they did was worth every extra pound added to the chassis.

I am guessing click bait but I really like the photos.

Carl - I miss stroked.... Alan still has #6 and Dave Stone has #8 which he bought a few years ago and had it repainted. If you get a chance look at the before and after pics. I'm still trying to get an answer as to the "crusher" heading and it's meaning.

Crusher? Two Zs with dented roofs caused by models?? Bob got the 00006 car which now is owned by Dave Stone in CA.

Race car has no return line but the street Z has one since it can sit in traffic for longer than I want it to.

As noted they're starting points and you as the driver need to provide input after the suspension has been set. Have an alignment shop dial in the settings, drive it and tell them what the car did or didn't do. If you can't feel any differences then you might want someone else to drive the car in a controlled manner and get feedback from them, make changes and see how it feels to you.

Jeff - here's a picture of the cockpit end showing what they used to adjust the airflow direction. Note the use of black electrical tape to tighten the end of the tube. The tape on mine is as old as whenever it was put on X years ago. All I did was clean it and apply some matt black paint to the vent itself. You can see the tape clearly on the PLN waiting photo.

Used on the BSR 610 as well -

That's the Bud 280Z air vent attached to my 240 BSR replica (with parts from the BSR 240Z) at the 2016 VRG event at the Dominion track. There's a screen to prevent debris (before the screen was put in a bee) and it really does provide cool air even when the air temps are over 90 degrees. The Bud Z and the BSR GTU cars didn't have a door mirror but I like knowing were other folks are. The original window net will be installed next week after the Wilwood pedals installation is completed.