gnosez

So unless I read this wrong replacing the mustache bar won't help your weak carrier leg or bolt area issue. I have several TTT pieces in my 240 and they are very nice to say the least and I've had no complaints at all even when used at the track. Fix the weak point first (the leg that holds the rear carrier brace or the bolt that comes down from the interior) and see if the problem is resolved before getting that pretty bar.

The twice pipes are not what is making your Z loud it's your muffler(s)

So the guy in the dark sun glasses wasn't in the Matrix?

Thanks for the pictures! Lots of cars and drivers I run with up north must have gotten really sick of our weather and made the trip down.

Picture of the bar end would help us help you..

Better fuel pump and if I had to do it all over again I'd use the Z31 rotors up front instead.

I'll be there. It will be my 12th in 14 yrs. Flying in and then crewing up at the Historics the following weekend. Looking forward to it.

Mallory Comp ($$$). I think 250/225 or 225/200 would be fine. Keeping the wheels in contact with the road is a good thing.

I have the NLA PDK front strut tower brace and a modified SCCA roll bar as a back brace. These are older pics before the gnose headlight covers were added and the 3.0 got swapped out for a 3.2L making 358@crank.

I'm running 16X9s with 245s at all corners. Fronts are 2.5 neg and fit just fine. I rolled the rears out to form a very small flare and 2 deg neg makes them tuck up okay. The car sits under 6 inches at the rocker. Springs are 275 front and 250 rear. As to the spindle pin, I saw-all the RCA from the strut and then have what remains pressed out.

Powder Coat...

We ran the race car with just slotted strut tower tops for several years (2.5 neg front and 2 rear) by grinding down the stock insulator. Two years ago we welded in the TTT fronts but the backs are still slotted. Have TTT RCAs and stock LCAs w/concentric bushings. My street 240 has the GC puck like pillow ball camber plates that has 4 different threaded locations to mount the strut. Works just fine. Both cars have sectioned struts and Tokico HTS shocks with the race car using 350# springs and the street 250.

Running mix of 93 and 110 so a gallon costs me about $6.23

Aftermarket for sure. I have a complete one piece lower valence with the the corners included. Suspect the PO had an "incident" at one time or other and had it replaced.

Pushed Z out of garage, flushed coolant and added DI water. Pressurized Accusump to check for leaks. Added 11 qts of oil, yeah that's correct. Turned over engine until oil pressure went up, then started engine. Run until water temp was 160, opened Accusump, closed and shut off engine. Added 2.5 more qts of oil, topped off radiator, restarted and put Z back in the garage.

$183 and out of stock.

Most likely stamped. I got what might have been the last cast one from Courtesy last year.

So which engine is in the car now? The L24 making 240hp or the L28 making 285+ with a CR of 13.5? Can either spin the tires? Does going from a stock 150hp to 285 make the car handle any differently? In the dry, no. Do you need more brake? Yes.

BSW - as someone who decided early on not to install an L28 turbo, an RB, or a LS motor and instead started with a stock L24 and have ended up over the last 14 years with a foolish 3.2L (L28 stroker with triples making 358@crank) running on 100 octane, do whatever makes you happy. And yes, if you increase hp then you MUST increase your braking ability. As to the thought that all the hp is wasted because it just means you end up spinning your wheels and can't stop, well that is not quite correct until you get up over my level of rear wheel horsepower (or have trouble knowing how to artfully use both your right and left feet in unison). There are traction limited Zs with LS/LT/RB/L28-turbos and those folks got what they wanted. As to S30 body Zs (70-78) being happy with just 150-200 hp, I have only to look in the engine bay of any of the early Bob Sharp race cars ( let's say they made a tad more than 200hp and might have handled just fine) or drive a friend's Z with over 400hp and the only issue is that I hit 140 as I transition into 4th gear. That said I understand the need for balance (think AC Cobra with a 289 instead of a big block) so plan your build in a holistic manner taking into account how you will use and where you will use your Z. And if my engine couldn't go 30 minutes without a cylinder wall issue being a concern, I'd replace the engine or engine builder.

Loose rack? Center of wheels not seating all the way down on hub? I had this issue with a set of aftermarket wheels and it drove me mad until it some how dawned on me that I had to grind down the hub assemblies. Real nasty vibrations.

Ditto on rotating the tires front to back and trying a different set of wheels. Really not liking the drilling concept.

I have ended up using a larger nut that can be removed by hand using a small metal rod I insert into one of four holes that I drilled to give me leverage.

...to a Datsun themed race event.

Drank? I've swam in it, First a 3.0L w/2-inch SUs, then a 3.1 w/triples and finally (my wife hopes) a 3.2L 12:2 CR stroker making 358hp@crank running on 100 octane grin inducing monster. A Mallory supplies the fuel to the 44mm Mikunis and the lack of noise means I can really hear the exhaust (from say a mile away people have been known to explain). The CF II and a lighter flywheel are the right choice for the 3.0L just remember you will have a bigger than normal drop in rpm once the clutch is engaged. Shift accordingly.

24F battery, which moves the negative post to under the body and two new cables (need to measure the ones you have and order the size of the current cables but reverse (black length would become the red length).