gnosez

Well I hope after all your hard work and $$$ spent you manage to attend ZCON 2014 so many of us can see your Z and meet you in person.

My first Rebello was a 3.0L with 2-inch SUs and it was fine until the need for (more) speed invaded my brain (what brain my wife asks).

Registered, hotel and a second week added to go to the Historics the following weekend.

Thanks for the great reminder as to why I run in Vintage events instead (less rubbing and no Miata's)

They make a removal and insert tool that holds the clip in place as you push back on the panel and then direct the clip into the slot on the regulator. It looks like a wonderbar (not a wonderbra) and is black with a 90 degree angle section that you use to remove panels.

NIX - you are right about the cost estimate as I have a 3.2L from Dave and the extra cost for the new crank, rods and tall block would add another $5k minimum. Make it $13k for a street engine and $15k for a race engine.

Maybe $3k just for the crank

Good question. I'll ask and post the info.

If that's your plan look at the Bad Dog Parts frame rails and sway bar plates. Yes, a shameless plug,,,

Depending on the style of driving and the condition of your Z you might want to inspect the frame where the new front sway bar has been installed for stress cracks and separation of the frame form the inner fender wheel. The new bracket design may help reduce this stress effect. You might also find an issue with the rear sway bar as a spacer needs to be placed to move the bar back as much as a 1/2 inch to provide better clearance. It also makes filling the diff a bit more difficult.

Just for Ss & Gs it would be interesting to put in several TCs (thermocouples) within the engine bay and one in the air intake (hose from in front of the radiator and then run a test without the hose). The loss in HP was determined after an engine with different air filters were run on the dyno at Rebello's. Dave also noted that the Pace exhaust was needed for higher HP engines (300+).

Drove from Harrisburg to southern Connecticut and swore I could see the ice and snow storm in my rear view mirror rushing to catch me. I was one of the last vehicles to traverse RT 84 in New York before it was closed. The tractor trailers were pedal to the medal trying to outrun the storm but at times I was passing them like they were still in low-low. The weather keeps me off the golf courses and focused on getting my Zs ready for the coming season. No drought in New England this year.

TWM-Air Filters-TWM Air Box ITG Air Filters - performance air filters for road and race vehicles | Megaflow Introduction ITG Air Filters - performance air filters for road and race vehicles | itg E-Catalogue Box requires the use of much shorter velocity stacks which can reduce HP. Slightly shorter and quite expensive stacks are the thing to have for the ITG filter.

Tom drove a 300ZX in BSR/Planter's Peanut livery and to my knowledge didn't win any races. In fact he wrecked a lot.

At the 36 second mark you see Bob Sharp standing next to the 280ZXTT which is sitting on the front straight at Limerock. You also see it when Sam Posey is being interviewed. My small claim to fame is that I drove the ZXTT out onto the track that day and later verified the funds provided were correct (counting cash out of brown paper bags is a bit strange) and a few weeks later helped load up all the spare parts (enough body parts to cloth 5 cars, the remaining V-8 engine known to exist and body part molds) and of course the car itself. BTW, Newman liked to challenge the Porsche guys to race from pit out to pit in while in reverse after the qualifying races were over. Seems he won quite a few of those races too. Tom's Showroom Stock 300ZX is going up for sale with the proceeds going to charity.

I had the TWM cool air box on my triples which has the inlet in the front (cone filter fitted via hose from in front of the radiator). The box was slanted so that it became smaller towards the rear (designed so air flow stays constant which a equal sided box will not do). All that means nothing on the dyno when it lost nearly 15 hp over the ITG filter set-up (single large unit). However in real life the hot air in the engine bay may cause a decrease equal to or greater than a cold air box. I have the box and need to put it up for sale. 3.2L NA making 358hp@crank, triple 44 Mikunis, yada, yada

Okay, stupid question(s) time. 1) fuel pressure at both idle and WOT 2) why didn't you go to a larger diameter fuel feed line (say 3/8th) Okay, not so stupid question time. 1) You have brakes so why are you using the gears to stop you? That's what they're there for. 2) Wouldn't a better set of pads, a full on upgrade to the Toyota calipers or Wilwoods, and yes, I'm going there, a better driver make this mostly go away as an issue?

Just registered. My invite to participate in the great Datsun racing drivers panel must have gotten lost in the mail... Post # 1,000. Now I just need 3,000 more to catch up to Blue.

I'm riding at 5.75 at the flat bottom of the front fender near the jacking point and 6 at the flat bottom just before the rear wheel well. Street 250/275 and mid-point on the Tokico HTS fronts and a turn less (softer) in the rear 245/45/16 tires (picture shows 225 in the front- those are no longer available in the style) Race 375 all 4 corners and just a notch or two from harsh in the front and two turns down in the rear 275s on 10inch wide 15 inch rears and 225 7inch wide 15 inch wheels front

Lower the air pressure?

Forgot to add pictures

As someone with a lowered 240Z I have gone from tired stock suspension height to new stock suspension (higher than tired old) to so called lowering springs (help, I may have installed the fronts in the rear!) and then to coil-overs (GC using my old struts and sectioning them). Like the 240Z race car the engine crossmember in the street 240Z sits at 4 inches off the ground. That results in a few things worth considering. First you need to very careful to tuck the exhaust up as high as you can. Next pay attention to your tire and wheel size, the front brake rotors (too big and the LCA front lips have be be trimmed) and your outer tie rods (a lowered Z puts added stress on the inner tie rods so a custom hiem joint set are a good idea). Suspension travel is limited and the ride can be called harsh by some if you use poly bushings along with stiffer springs and set the shocks to say race mode. So what is your ride height goal and at what points will you measure?

If they weren't a soft buffing wheel would make them shine. Hoarder? No. Future and current seller? Yes.

Thanks. I'll hold on to the two sets I have for a few more years.

What are they worth?