gnosez

Was on the phone with him this afternoon as he's looking for some BSR parts. Blue - next time keep this sort of thing to yourself....

Bad Dog Parts, Datsun Z car parts and accessories 240z Frame Rails (FRONT) - $220.00 : Bad Dog Parts, Datsun Z car parts and accessories 240z Frame Rails (REAR) - $138.00 : Bad Dog Parts, Datsun Z car parts and accessories We make them for 280Zs (coupe and 74-76 2+2s) as well $230. All prices include shipping (lower 48 States).

I'm sure Nissan wouldn't mind if we all went back to Nashville in 2015 for the 45th birthday party of the Z. Maybe the new gen Z could be introduced? Only problem seems to be that the local area club has neither the necessary amount of willpower or enough members to pull off a convention. In 2010 (40th year) the ZCCA board managed the whole thing and those folks didn't live anywhere near the event. That's willpower.

Since I sell frame rails for S30 Zs let me put forth a thought or two. The OEM rails started rusting on the boat coming over here. Even so most lasted years and years before they needed to be replaced. If those OEM rails had had some version of rust protection there would be more Zs in operational condition today. The rails I sell are nearly three times thicker than the OEM ones. If you didn't seam seal and rust proof them they would likely last for years before needing to be replaced. With protection they are likely to last for a few decades (if you stop driving your Z when there is salt on the roads). Anode sanode. These are cars not boats. So clean up and or replace your rails, put on some protection and go drive your car. How long will the rest of your Z last?

It's one of the things I like about being out on a race track - everyone is really, really concentrating, no cellphones, texting, reading, putting on eye shadow or eating and most people are going in the right direction.

Personal observations and experiences aside the number of accidents has been dropping since 1990 (see this: Motor Vehicle Accidents and Fatalities - The 2012 Statistical Abstract - U.S. Census Bureau) Click on 1103 And here's an interesting site to see where accidents take place anywhere in the U.S.: State Motor Vehicle Crash Statistics Seems that you are at the highest level of risk between 3 and 5pm and that 3pm is the deadliest time of the day. I always thought any time after 11pm was not when you wanted to be in vehicle.

I always remember what my uncle said - "there are only two types of drivers, the first are the ones who drive so slow you have ride their rear bumper and the second group are always riding your rear bumper". Having had the opportunity to drive in over 40 countries, the U.S.A. is annoying but not as deadly as you think. Okay, it's really annoying but it's nothing like Russia, Nigeria, Egypt, Mexico City, New Delhi or Hanoi (worst city in the world if you want to cross the street and not get hit or killed).

Or oil is really leaking from the valve cover gasket and into the well.

I'd check the three (3) nuts holding the strut at the top of the inner fender well first then the TC rod, the wheel bearing nut, then the steering rack bushings and both inner and outer tie rods.

The float might be getting hung up on one of the wound wires used to complete the contact from the float arm.

No can just a few wood blocks with peanut butter floating in a 5-gal bucket. And a ramp of course.

When I asked Bob Sharp which of all his Zs which would he chose to drive if he could only have one and he answered without hesitation, "the Z with the 15-inch wide rears" and he followed up with "give me 30-inches of rubber and a soft suspension and I can put the car anywhere I want it to go". The most we can use in vintage are 225s on 7-inch wide rims. Would love to have those 285s you ran.

John - excellent point. I noticed a different when we run the 15X7 rears at a vintage event and then the 15X10s at other events. Pete and I are building a second engine for the 240 so we can run the 2.4L on tight tracks and the 2.8L on the longer ones where we would go out in a session with the V-8s instead of the 2.5L and under crowd.

Better if they ran some tests with the same rim diameter and then went wider but I understand why they ran the tests like they did. Of course changing the diff just might have made those plus size tires perform just as well if not better.

We had a JCR unit and the pulleys had to be custom made ($$$). We did the same coil-pack mount bracket when we were making everything else. Race car so no chrome. Saves weight. AC on this latest pic, no?

The battery and MC locations kinda gave it away, no (not JDM)? And the 4 bolt camber plates are no longer there along with a different MC. Hmmmmm...

Those support points on the frame rails only apply if they and the floor is rust free. I have placed them under $300 parts cars and had them break through and into the interior.

Anything NA (L-series) making 250hp and above means you spent more money on the engine than your wife knows about.....

Had one on the 240 race car several years ago until two of the injectors failed causing 2 piston tops and rings to be eaten alive. Given the expensive of custom bits and pieces needed to make the system work, the megasquirt unit and the loss of about 20% of fuel needed to cool the supercharger, and the fact we moved into vintage racing where this set-up wasn't allowed, we ended up selling it. Dyno'ed in around 300hp@crank and could like get another 40 or so more with more tuning experience. Throttle response was similar to an L-series with say triples but the kick in the pants was more like a turbo but without the lag. It added a good 50 lbs on the wrong side of the engine bay. Our race 2.8L made 285@crank (13:1) before giving up the ghost earlier this summer and my 3.2L in the street Z makes 357@crank (12.2:1) w/triples running on 110 & 100 octane respectively.

So let me get this straight, you suggest that I drive my Z like my right testicle was between the gas pedal and my right foot so I get better gas mileage. Unless I was running near empty and the closest gas station was miles and miles await, why would I drive my Z like that? My Honda Ridgeline, the Civic or the Altima, okay, but my Z? I drive it like Mr. K envisioned - hard.... Mileage from 18 to 8 mpg with 3.2L NA using 100 octane, close ratio 5-spd and 3:90 quaife diff depending on how much I want to crush that testicle.

I saw it nearly 10 years ago or so at the old Nissan Headquarters after they dragged it out of the lower garage storage to put out in the parking lot for the ZCCA annual convention. The picture that 26th posted of Mr. K along side of the 240ZG was taken at the same event. As explained to me the 260 2+2 came with a factory installed sliding sun roof (with the longer and flatter roof line it works and looks better than those put in coupes - if you like that sort of thing) and a factory yellow-white pearl (not metal-flake) paint job that was very impressive. I was also told by Johnnie that Mr. K didn't like the 260 and gave it to Mrs. K to drive. No idea were it is today....

Alan - what do you know about the yellow metal-flake 260 2+2 with the sliding sun roof that was given to Mr. K but seems to be the primary car for Mrs. K instead?

a few thousand laptop batteries would do the trick to get that Honda up to 60 in 4 seconds

5 oz of acetone in 17 gals of gas would raise your octane from say 91 to 91.2 at best. Adding a 50:50 mix would actually increase your octane number quite a bit. Using say 3 oz of acetone plus a little bit of lead per gallon of 91 octane gas would increase the octane level to about 96. Five oz and no lead won't do as much. With a CR of 12.2:1 I have to be a bit careful what goes in my gas tank and anything under 100 will cause it to start knocking under WOT applications.

I would have been interested in hearing your thoughts if you just swapped out the steering coupler and then drove the car before taking out the rest of the poly.