gnosez

Fuel gauge sender assembly bits?

Have Wilwoods in the front and the SX in the rear of my 240. Gutted the stock prop valve and put in an aftermarket version. Overkill. Prop bias valve is set all the way to the front. The 240 race car has the Z31 calipers up front and drums with Porterfield R4 shoes. Stock bias valve. Shoes last 2-3 years. If I had to do it all over again, I'd put the Z31s on my street car instead. Either way you need a 280 brake booster and a 15/16 or 1-inch MC.

I likely have a set...my email: john@baddogparts.com Not sure if the stock style bar will fit in a reversed direction.

The ST rear bar comes with a set of modified carrier legs that allow you to mount the bar on the legs and then on the RCAs themselves. This bar has the opening facing the front of the car as opposed to the stock rear bars that came on later Zs where the opening faces the rear of the car and the mounts are located on the undercarriage behind the seats. You can use a stock bar in an early Z by just drilling holes in the floor. The ST bar is a cleaner solution.

Have the ST in my 240 with the R200 and no issues at all.

http://zccne.org/forum/index.php?/topic/1484-nhms-loudon-may-12-13th/page__pid__8060#entry8060 Three races: DNF, 2nd and 1st place

Launching is for laughs, high speed corning is where serious fun is had. I always like to accelerate around the corner instead of slowing down all the way around. You want to beat someone off the line go put an LS crate motor in your Z....

That style has no grooves for your thumbs and on a long trip you'd be holding the wheel wrong for 90% of the time. I've had a 13 inch Grant wheel for almost 10 yrs now, ever since some funny racer types taped a series of paper towel roll tubes around my wood wheel to make it look like one from a sailing ship. After all the suspension mods I've installed, the old wheel doesn't provide the response time I want. As to driving long distances, I've done a few one day, 1,000 mile drives from ZDayZ to home and the wheel was comfortable to hang on to the whole way.

After installing the TechnoToy LCAs, I drove the 240 to the alignment shop and back, before go off to work. Camber 2.3, caster 3.4, toe 1/16 front with 2.1 camber and 1/16 toe in the rear. After work, I spend a few hours drilling holes (tranny, oil pan, diff drain plugs, etc.) in the 240 race car to attach safety wire (tomorrow's chore)

I have them, used, in good condition. Came off my 240. john@baddogparts.com

Those are vortex generators and are used to break up air flow (they're positioned 8-15 degrees off center and staggered). The non-laminar flow helps the rear spoiler do its job better. The VGs seem to be best suited for a high posted wing. Not period correct or legal in SCCA, if memory serves me right.

It was just under 1,000 to Nashville, over a 1,000 to Savannah, more than 1,300 to Florida and it's 991 miles to the Tail of the Dragon (which I drive non-stop on the return leg). Done it in the 240 and with the Z on a trailer. Plan ahead, get the car prepped, bring spare parts, drive in a group and enjoy the ride....

I'd hazard a guess the cost was closer to $100k.

This Z was at ZCON 2011 and won easily. It came in one of Brock's BRE trailers and the car was well thought out with custom pieces that were balanced with original parts. A real sweet Z!

We have a club member's early 260 (3/74) in the shop and it has a small rear bumper but has shock holes for the later version bumper. I look at frame rails to determine early and late versions (since I sell them and 260 owners aren't sure which style to order). Early 260s generally have 240 style rails and later 260s have the 280 rails installed. I have seen 280 rails on a pre-June '74 260 but they could have been replaced by a POV. As to coil-overs, I went the GC and Tokico HTS route with the internal biscuit camber set-up. This is similar to what John at Betamotorsports offers. The only welding required is the struts (cut down) and those can be farmed out to a professional. Rear suspension on my 240 has 250 springs, AR Z RCAs, a Suspension Technique sway bar and is set at 2.2 degrees negative and 1/16 toe. Fronts have 275 lb springs, the ST sway bar, LCAs w/heim joints and the pivot point moved up 3/4-inch along with TTT TC rods. Bumps steer spacers and Z Car Customs outer tie rods (straight so the angle a stock tie rod has coupled with a lowered car doesn't put added stress on the inner tie rod). Front camber is 2.2, with a 1/16 of toe and 3.7 degrees of caster. Ride can be soft or harsh depending on the activity planned for the vehicle that day.

Triples with a larger fuel line and a return line, heat shield and coated heater. Wouldn't run the street car any other way. And these are 44mm on a 3.2L so the engine isn't over carb'd. We run a return line on the 240 race car as well (44mm without large venturi and 13.5:1 compression ratio).

We have a few, including one or more that were mounted on BSR cars. Email me..

I would strongly suggest that if you plan on installing triples and doing other work on the engine, that you dyno the engine and not the car. You will be able to tune the engine to peak performance without any distractions, drive train losses, etc. More expensive but if you're serious, a better way to go.

I have been without parking, tail and side marker lights for awhile and finally got around to disconnecting every light but the ones in the dash harness. Prior to this I had swapped in another combo and turn signal switches (my low beams weren't working either!). So today I popped in a 20amp fuse and for once it didn't melt or crack. While I sat in the car I happened to notice the cig light and for some strange reason decided to turn the dimmer switch. Flicker, flicker. So I turn it to full dash light and connect one rear taillight, then a side light and the parking/turn signal lights. All work now! So now I install Dave's H4 harness (removing the one I got more than 6 yrs a go from Black Dragon) and low and behold I have low beams as well. Thanks for the great, simple to install product and your helpful advice.

Oh, I liked my wheel as well, but once I started driving it harder and harder, a different and upgraded wheel as the right thing to do. A daily driver doesn't need a Grant or similar wheel unless you like just happen to like the way they look or feel. Go with what makes you happy...

That and having any old bushing, spring, shock replaced. And I had a dozen cardboard tubes taped around the outside of my steering wheel (looked like a ship's wheel) by my "friends" at a weekend AX event. I changed to a Grant wheel before the next event and never looked back...

I completely agree with Jerry. Les is not trying to avoid you in any way and he is a completely honest guy.

As someone who toasted a 3:90 ring and pinion gear set after installing aftermarket CVs and then had to get a set of Arizona Z RCAs to solve the spacing issue, I would strongly suggest getting Jon's set-up. And no more half shaft u-joints or pain in the azz half shaft nuts to tighten. Glad to see Jon has made these available....

I have had the TTT TC rods on my street car for near 5 yrs now and 20,000 hard miles. My 240 is in no manner stock and would likely be considered harsh by some. JR Mitchell (he build the Newman 280ZXTT) and Bob Sharp have driven it and really liked how it handles. I have not noticed any different in road input from the poly or aluminum/delrin ball-cone TC rod bushings. As to caster being just right (Mike W's post), I now have just around 4 degrees of caster on the street 240 and just under 6 on the race 240. Mike W - what was just right?

I do like those montrose trailers, Carl. Nice find. Wish we had seen this last year before getting the new trailer for the race car. My thoughts are for a standard trailer that allows you to raise the roof to load and unload and to lower the roof for travel. This would give you access while allowing for a smaller aerodynamic shape in the tow mode. A "pop-up" car trailer if you will.