gnosez

And a gnose to boot....

Before Jon had the great idea of making the correct length shafts I toasted a rebuilt 3:90 pinion in all of 50 miles after installing a set of aftermarket (autozone) 300zxt CVs in my 240 (with the MMS adaptors). In this case the ones from autozone were two left (or rights) and of course one side was too long causing the CV to press into the side of the diff. Lots of gray and silver bits came drained out of the diff. I got a set of real 300zxt (both left and right sides but found that there was still the very real possibility that one side would bind on my very lowered car. To solve this I went out and got a set of Dave's Arizona Z car RCAs and adjusted the angle of the inner tube to match the CV shaft lengths. This also gave me a more upright arm that was lacking in the stock setup once I lowered the car. A time consuming chore but in the end (no pun intended) it worked. The 240 now has over 10,000 miles, including some track time and not a spot of problems (or little metal bits in my diff). Had Jon's shafts been available back then I would have gotten them as well for added insurance. Nice to see another solution from within the Z community.

Have them made to order as the generic ones have enlarged holes that can float around and cause issues. The fronts are hubcentric, it's just the rears that need to be made specific to your needs. We're in the process of putting flares on our 240 putting 10-inch wheels with 275/35/15s under them for non-vintage race events. To fill up the flares for vintage events (only 15x7 wheels are allowed) we will have 1/2-inch spacers inserted. Porsches have been winning races with spacers for more than 40 years....

I'm puzzled by the statement that the Jag's 4.2L E-type beat out the Datsun 400+ HP turbo'd 280ZXs?? Those weren't turbo cars as far I know. So the 4.2L Jag beat a 2.8L Datsun, hmmm. Try: for a look at the 1980 runoff itself which includes the TR8 crash (ugly but no one was hurt).

As a judge at ZCON 2010 I was very interested in getting a much closer look at Jared's $125k 240Z. It saddened me to see that while it's a very well put together car it couldn't muster enough points to be awarded a Gold Cup. I doubt this was an issue in selling the car but it would have been nice to see it go off with the highest award a Z car can obtain through the ZCCA. Now I know here to look for a buyer if I do a refresh on my gnose 3.2L Rebello 240Z and get too old to drive it the way it should be driven.

After all the work that's been done on my engine I saw no reason in the world to inject dirty oil vapor et al into my very clean triple intake so I installed a simple catch can. Why did you route your valve cover exhaust to the BACK side of the air filter where there is no element to catch anything? Yes, this was the way it was done on the original airbox but that's not a reason to compound a bad design process.

32 gph?? The Holley Red does 67 and my Mallory is 110. Not sure what the Nissan pumps flowed at but those were not connected to a set of triple carbs. I could see issues with WOT going uphill using that Facet. I could be wrong but for less than $100. you can a touch more flow going to your carbs when you most need it. Please post results of the Facet pump under heavy usage.

I completely agree with Mr. Coffey and for grins, here's my "what didn't fall off my car": http://zccne.org/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?m-1319228533/s-new/

Built 5 pullers for a total cost of $136. using hardened 3/4 steel threaded rods, 2 washers, two nuts and 3/4 pipe with a union. Cost also includes tap. I set aside a second nut so I can lock the first one down when I'm trying to remove the spindle pin from the threaded rod.

In my defense, I would like to add that I didn't purchase a number of Series I cars when I was looking for a replacement shell to built the 240 I currently have. With all the mods I was going to undertake, there was no way I would molest one of those vehicles.

Except for the V-8 swap, I'm pretty sure I got all the other parts/mods on the "not to do" list: Body - non-factory gnose with custom dam and splitter, OEM headlight covers and trim, 2003 Nissan paint (gunmetal gray w/added flake), BRE rear spoiler, H4 and fog lights, non-OEM antenna, BBS custom wheels (245x16x8), blackened engine bay, slight custom rear flared (to fit larger tires). Engine - 1975 block, diesel crank, 40 over, triple 40mm, custom E31 head, crinkle powder coated valve cover, 120amp one wire GM alternator, gear reduction starter, pertronix and MSA 6al box, 8.5mm wires, custom brake booster/cam vacuum system, AZ Z radiator, electric fans, TWM cold air box and K&N cone filter, MSA coated header, custom 2.5 "exhaust w/Sebring Tuning muffler. Drivetrain - '80ZX 5-spd, custom race balanced driveshaft, R200 3:90 diff w/Quaiffe, Modernmotorsport CV adapters, 280 stub axles, 300ZXT CV joints Suspension - GC coilovers and camber plates, 2.5 springs (275 lbs), Tokico HTS shocks, PDK front strut bar, bump steer spacers, ZCCJDM custom outer tir rods, STS front and rear sway bars, Futofab custom front control arms, and AZ Z rear billet control arms, all poly bushings (that aren't hiemed) Brakes - AZ Z Wilwood set-up with prop valve and 280 brake booster w/15/16 master Interior - uncracked dash, 280 tach, 280 clock, Autopower roll bar, Cobra race seats w/3-inch Safe-quip belts, otherwise all stock interior carpets and trim Judging of cars past the bone stock level is with ZCCA rules strictly limited to cleanliness.

engine, tranny, diff (if not a 180), front calipers -then sell everything else and get a 280 parts car

I ran a Red Holley until it drowned out the sound of my 3.2L exhaust. Now I run a Mallory and while expensive it handles all my triple and noise requirements. In the race car we run twin Reds that are mounted on the side of the fuel cell upper box. Loud is not the right description but once the engine fires the twin un-muffled funnels mask any fuel pump noise. Insulate and isolate the pump from the frame or mounting point with rubber, then box it in and put sound deadening around the box.

I've been having 5-spds rebuild since 2001 at the same shop and I bring them 4-6 a year along with a few diffs for bearing/seal replacement and stub axles to press out. Until recently the price has been under $500. but last month it jumped to nearly double that due to an increase in parts costs and the fact the shop was losing money on the discounted labor rate they had quoted me. The shop told me that the new rebuild kits come with some additional parts that wasn't included earlier (these they had been taking from spare/junk trannies) and they believe the rebuilds are better than before as a result. So my question is, what are other folks paying to have ZX 5-spds (non-turbo) rebuilt these days?

Going on 11 years with my Pertonix set-up and no issues whatsoever (I did remove the ballast resistor and have an MSD box as well).

The "spooks" that Les sells are BRE style units and I'm looking for a BSR style front spook. I had one on my 260 but that was 35 yrs ago and I doubt that car still exists. The BRE style or for that matter any style with open brake duct cooling vents where the vents don't go to the brakes are a waste of downforce. Unless you race a solid face is the way to go.

Balance is everything! Whatever you use in front and on the rear hatch should be proportional. Got a big azz wing? Then you better have a very effective front air dam that stops air from entering the engine bay and going under the car. We ran the MSA III on our 240 race car and we blocked off all air flow and routed cooling air into the radiator via a shroud. The only thing we didn't do was add a rubber apron at the bottom of the dam to seal it off. To do so would have required us to zeus fit the airdam and we never got around to doing it. The front stayed planted at speeds in excess of 135mph. Now we're running the car in vintage and a modern airdam is not allowed. That gaping hole is just killing the handling compared to the Type III. I'd love to find an original BSR front "spook" or even a good copy.

Besides Jeff Mader, Brad Robertson (green '70 that tears up the Dragon) is flying down, Bill Moreau, 1st place winner in 280 Street mod along with Pete Sanders (Z-Ya) and I will be coming down from New England. Pete and I will be dragging our 240 race car and hope to do the trip in one long push (902 miles), on Monday. We'll have some nice parts for sale as well. And, if you haven't heard, Bob Sharp will be there on Thursday and Friday. Looking forward to seeing everyone again.

Once I finish up this field project from hell, I'll post pictures from my street 240 w/44's and our 240 race car with the BSR taper bored 44 to 50mm Solexes. Gotta go back to work...but the race car will be in Savannah for ZCON 2011.

The secret, and there is a secret, to getting these carbs to handle hard turns (mostly rights) is to send them off to Todd at Wolf Creek, Dave Rebello (call first and see when you might be getting them back) or find someone who races that has them and see if they will mod them for you. While there may be other things that need correction, Jon was spot on about the vent hole. However there are a few other things you must do as well. It's not pump rod location or jets. I'm not trying to be a jerk about not publicly responding to your post but I've learned the method to overcome this problem is a closely guarded secret amongst the racing brotherhood and even then most of them say "why would I tell my fellow racer how to go as fast as I do". I hear switching to EFI solves the problem but since my street car has a set of 44mm Mikunis and our race car a set of 44MM taper bored to 50mm Solexes (from the 260 BSR car) I wouldn't know.

Drums were made in both steel and aluminum (Brembo made them). Rear drums are more than enough for normal driving and with ZX calipers and rotors up front we run drums in our 240 race car (same set of Porterfield shoes for the past 3 years). I have about a dozen sets of stock shoes and will sell them for $20. shipped.

I have done it with a hammer on several times and I doubt you could spot the difference. And then there's the fact that those surfaces are hidden once installed.

A hammer does the same job.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/car-frame-rail-replacement.html http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/bad_dog_parts_rails_and_zedd_findings_floors_and_rails_pics_and_symbiotic_relationship_876458.0.html These rails are made of 12 ga.