gnosez

I would but what car did it come in?

I opened a diff I just got with a lot of parts and it has the following stamped markings on the ring gear: 35 X A C 5 - 11 Anyone have a clue as to the ratio?

Might I suggest that the outer tie rod be inverted as in the picture it is upside down.

Based on the wide flares this is a GTU car that wasn't running slicks (dries) but rather what appear to be rain tires (wets). There wasn't a wide (15 inch rim) rain tire I believe available back then. Of course they could have removed the slicks and left the car sitting on the wets for some reason.

That pan has internal baffles allowing oil to be sucked up into the engine even when the car is traversing a hard corner. I have had one in my street and race car for over 15 years. My dad ruined a nearly new Cadillac engine attempting to get a glider airborne - race down the runway, not fast enough, hard left turn, fast down the runway, over and over again. The dealer says he never had an engine fail so quickly after purchase.

So the ATI dampener requires a crank bolt longer than stock so off to Bel-Metric I go to get a 16 x 1.5 x 50mm Grade 10.9 bolt. We used a similar bolt on the last race engine without issue. Now I'm waiting on some very short valve seals. The stock ones would have been hit due to a very aggressive cam.

It will be going back as soon as I have some free time. The concept that you need to some how keep it from rusting is nuts. Bare metal that is exposed to the elements with no thought on some form of protection. I sprayed it with oil before and after running in the wet.

The first photo is of the internal scoring on the dampener. There was no marks on the snout of the crankshaft and the machine shop was of the opinion that the damage was caused during the installation process. The second shows how a three day race in the pouring rain can result in some serious surface rust.

I had an ATI dampener on last year's race engine and we had no issues. This year's engine is a rebuild using parts from an earlier race engine. That engine had a BJH dampener which if not kept oiled begins to rust pretty quickly. Inspection of the crank months ago revealed no damage or scoring. Today I got a call telling me that the inside of the dampener was damaged. I will post a picture tomorrow once I get a chance to go see it. An ATI is on the way. We did not install the BJH so I'm unsure why.

Smitty - even with my bondo and spot putty dust covered glasses I have no idea why I should even think that the 280 shown was Flagg's 260 2+2 salt flats car. Too many hours getting the car ready and still I'm a good three weeks behind. Are you running that car (CP, GTU, GT2) and if so with what organization?

I stand corrected. After getting back home from working on my Z and switching glasses, I looked at the photos and I saw similar but slightly different angles. Not the #33 car.

Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil. Let sit for a day or two. Add more to the spots that aren't shiny. Wipe off. Coming up on 47 years.

The above photo is of Andy Flagg's record setter and those B & W photos are of the #33 GTU BSR shell. They were on a roll of undeveloped 35mm film that was part of the trailer full of BSR parts we purchased several years ago.

I was in the room when Bob saw this film for the first time. Prior to this he was unsure if the film was actually real. There are four things that make this special. 1) white coverall workers rushing out to get a car back on the track while the race is still in process 2) leading after turn one he dips a rear right tire in the dirt and sends debris back into the pack (you can almost see the pack lift and Bob puts more space between them) Sam Posey says he did it more than once 3) Bob wins the race not just in CP but against AP and BP cars 4) a split window vette is shown coming into LRP pulling a trailer carrying a split window vette

The larger angled version

The horizontal section of the roll cage ties into the upright that can be partially seen at the right of the photo. They used several versions of the air vent.

Ain't nothing wrong with an L28 from a 280Z. In fact we stopped building our race engines using ZX blocks. Walls thickness was the issue. more meat in a 280 block or at least on the three so far in comparison to the ZX ones. Either are fine for a hot street engine and of course going turbo with the F54 block is a no brainer. Low compression as opposed to what we build (13.5:1) NA.

I am in the process of switching out my Tokico HTS shocks for a set of Koni 8610-Race because I am increasing the front springs from 375# to 450# which many folks believe is too much for the HTS's to handle before blowing. While this might not be true, having to replace a shock or shocks at the track would be a PIA not to mention that HTSs are NLA. Like the Koni the HTS had a wider range of adjustment with no numbers to go by just the requirement to remember how many turns you made. Unlike the Koni the HTS could not be rebuilt. These Koni "Sport" shocks look to be a perfect solution for every type of driving one might do. That Koni and MSA are now producing a Better replacement shock for our Zs is wonderful news and I salute their efforts to ensure we can continue to enjoy these great cars for many more years. I've attached a picture of the Race shock adjuster which I assume is similar to the one used for the Sport version (once it's set you would remove it from the shock and Koni suggests that you put it in the glove box).

I have a question regarding the diameter of the new 240 and early 260 shocks. Given that the race versions (8610 and 8611) are about 1 thousandth or more larger than the strut tube are the new "Sport" Konis smaller than the Race versions? How do I know they are larger? Ask me how much paint is still on my new 8610s (none) or how much time I've spent honing out each strut tube. When my street 240 needs shocks it would be nice if I didn't have to go through this again.

Grease used back in the day contains lead. Take the necessary precautions or don't.

Another good reason to run either 110 or a mix of 110 and 93. Carbs have sat for months and fire up on the first turn of the key (or starter button - race car)

And locktite because having them loosen would make for a very interesting day......

or you could just hang the shock from something, soak the shock with oil and then tap the strut

http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/datsun/160406-1978-california-z-jim-cook-racing-series-rare-1978-datsun-280z.html

Looks like a Jim Cook Racing body kit.