gnosez

One way of tightening would be to check the corner balance weights before and after you tighten the bushing nuts. If they change you have to back off a bit. A more practical way would be to tighten them to the correct FSM torque as listed...

I forgot to mention I coated the inside well with POR15 and then sealed it with FG resin. No water of any kind finds it way to those small cuts....

All you need to do is make a series of small cuts (1/2-inch max.) on the inner fender lip and then push/hammer in up into the wheelwell. This will gain you the needed distance for clearance. I run 245/50/16s w/GC coilovers and I suspect my 240 sits a tad lower than yours. I normally set the camber between 2 and 2.5.

Great post and I'm saving this for next year's project list since I also need to replace my heater core. One quick question - Why do you need heat (and added weight) in a race car?

I know a bit about low as my street 240 sits just 5.75-inches (at front rocker and 6.10 at rear), the race car at just 5 and 5.75 respectively and the BSR/Newman 280ZXTT sits a mere 3 inches (with air in the tires). The concept of just cutting and liking the look is one thing, being able to drive it and drive it fast is a whole different thing all together.... Hell, getting them on and off a trailer is a pain.

So a big bad motor coupled to a suspension that has no travel, cool. At least I know of one Z I can out run on the twisties in my truck.....

Along with the 280ZXTT the SCCA 300ZX (SSA class) driven by Tom Cruise will be at the convention in Nashville. The 280ZXTT will be out at Mid-Ohio doing a few parade laps at the SVRA vintage races June 25-27 with Nissan/Datsun being the featured marque. Both these two cars and the BSR/Newman 300ZXT are being sold at auction with all proceeds going to charity. Got a few hundred thou? Get the ZXTT before it hits the auction block....

You will need to install longer wheel bolts. That means you need to remove your wheels and the front hubs (good time to repack your bearings) and most likely hammer or press the existing bolts out before inserting newer and longer ones. Remember to get ones with the same pitch as the existing ones (take a nut with you to verify this at the auto parts store).

So remind me again what engine you're running in that car if you would be so kind...

Since our's is not an ITS car we are not limited to stock calipers so the larger versions dissipate the heat better. Should we have an issue the sheetmetal frames and hoses will be re-installed. A street car will not likely need brake ducts IMHO. We'll see how the race car does on an extended lap time trip to Monticello, NY next week. The track is 4.1 miles with 22 corners and three straights. Pit row straight is an 80mph run to a hard left off-camber turn, the next one is a 100mph run with a set of corners that you can't take at more than 40 and the back straight is more of how fast can you go before a hard 90 uphill. We were hitting over 125mph with our 181rwhp 240Z but the vettes, prepped M-series and a few GTRs were lifting around 170. Our lap times were just under 3 minutes. We ran the car for a total of 4.5 hrs (within an 8 hr day) and had no brake fade issues. BTW, we use Porterfield shoes in the rear.

Are you racing your Z or using the brakes very often? If yes, then consider ducting. A hose from the airdam (make a sheetmetal holder and attach to the airdam) to the strut is all that is needed. There are pics of installations on race sites and over on hybridz.org We run a 240 on the race track and have blocked off the brake ducts since we have never had an issue (larger Toyo 4X4 w/Porterfield R4S pads). We have run through a set of pads in 4 days but have never had a fade issue due to lack of cooling air. For aero purposes you want no or very little air going under the front of the car and everything that goes into the grill should be directed to the radiator via an enclosed shroud. Our inlet is no bigger than 14X4 and we have no overheating issues.

Get a 24F battery and then replace your cables to the get the correct lengths needed for your vehicle (I have a remote cut-off switch in-line). Measure the existing battery you have (as long as it fits into the battery holder - you have one right?) and then verify the size of the 24F version you want to purchase. A secure battery is your friend. It is the first thing I look at when under the hood of someone else's Z.

I think so too (fusible link) but the white puff on the right side says battery tie-down failure to me and it could have also melted wires leading into the generator/alternator wiring. I had mine fail due to a similar issue and the extent of the melting was not limited to just the fusible links.

The simple answer is: everywhere.... Oh, and bring a magnet to check for bondo or fiberglass patches.

My Z is still up on jackstands so I won't be making it this year. I'm bummed. More sure and post pics...

Answer re: nylon crap after plating - use a dremel tools w/wire brush and remove the foam that floats on the top of the plating solution. It hardens and leaves a real "nice" deposit that makes you think the ball ends are no longer use-able. Some work will be needed to get them back to normal but the ball is still in there. I have over 30 ends still to do myself....

The photos weren't taken to show the diff which is an R190 and the car now has a 5-spd hence the curved cross member. It is a Series I (hatch, C pillar w/o air intake, metal emblem, steering wheel, oh, and the VIN number).

Those legs were on a club members Series I car but I have found the welting on the later curved rear control arm link. You all did notice that this Series I car has a curved link arm?

All poly except the rear bushing (TC rod) and the steering coupler. Then go out and really enjoy the ride...

So a Series I only part I assume.

I found these interesting (Series I 240). Are they a standard Series I piece as opposed to the rectangular ones found on all other S30 cars?

The ZCC of New England will have about 6-8 members there (some with cars and some are flying in). I'm one of them (bringing the 240 track car).

I think the windshield was not cut but rather moved farther down into the firewall. Either that or I'm too tired from trying to get my Z running (right) again....

Build specs?

Tomorrow would be a great day to bring out your Z and come up to A&C Imports in Bedford, NH for the ZCCNE annual spring charity inspection event. The cost is $35. For more info go to: www.zccne.org