gnosez
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Everything posted by gnosez
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Put the car in a car jacket bag with some moth balls around it...
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When rpms start moving down to 2500 (and lower), DOWN shift and get over it, regardless of what gear you're in. Up shift whenever you want (short for gas mileage, long for power/speed). I seldom ever short shift (it's not a eco-box, it's a sports coupe). My drivetrain is similar to Zs-ondabrain save for a '80 tranny, a quaife in the diff and about 260hp@rws (3:90 gears and ZXT CVs). My up shifts tend to be in the 6000 range (peak power) when I want to go fast and around 3000 to 3500 around town.
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input on adjustable front lower control arms
gnosez replied to Neal G's topic in Suspension & Steering
look under "brakes, wheels, suspension..." over on Hybridz and then scroll down until you hit one of many threads on both front and rear control arms (LCA - RCA) The big question is why do you think you need them (as opposed to stock units) and what application are they for (AX, track, etc.). -
"We're running about 25lbs heavy" ??? Do you mean the car or the driver? Qtr windows still in the car or have you gone to a lexan blank? CF race seat? Smaller battery? Custom dash? Stock brakes?
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As I mentioned earlier you can sandwich the diff between the OEM and RT mounts. Between Roostmonkey, Z-Ya, my car and the race car we have not had one issue and we drive our cars very, very hard. Two are turbo cars with over 300hp@rws and the race car gets the snot beat out of it 10 times a year.
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I was coming down Rt93 from Windham after getting the 240 race ready for a time trial event at NHMS-Loudon, NH on Sunday....
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I have shipped both metal and FG parts and have found that the real weight savings come from glass replacement(w/lexan), door gutting, and then FG part replacement (there isn't much different between steel and FG fenders, but the hood and doors could save you 25 lbs). You could at one time get an entire S30 body (save the roof) made from FG. I shipped a complete rear FG clip to Europe 3 yrs ago.
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Greg, have you checked with John Coffey (betamotorsports.com)? We have a FG version on our 240 race car and contrary to what you might have figured, air is not drawn into the engine bay via the low pressure swirling at the base of the windshield. I ran the car with tell-tales at speeds over 110mph and they were blowing out (and not in). Looks good, however...
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contact Sebring Tuning for a muffler to suit your needs....
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I ended up installing my stock diff mount at the same time and have had no issues whatsoever. A bit overkill but then I tend to drive it hard...
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Trying to make a Custom Spoiler (plz vote for best spoiler)
gnosez replied to logan1's topic in Body & Paint
Function over Form: 1) if you have a front air dam than "1" is the worst choice 2) "4" is better than "5" (I have "5" BRE on my 240 but have the BSR version "4" in the works - molded off one of the BSR cars) 3) "8" & "9" are the best for keeping the rear on the ground -
Trying to make a Custom Spoiler (plz vote for best spoiler)
gnosez replied to logan1's topic in Body & Paint
What are you using to make a decision - looks or functionality? -
Yeah, I got my right vs left screwed up (likely by being out here on the Left Coast for too long). I'll try the simple solution this winter (it snowed back home today in Boston).
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The only issue I have with my 44mm Mikunis is that I failed to have them modified to handle hard left hand turns. The bowls need a baffle to keep fuel from moving away from the pick-up. For daily driving they are fine but a heat shield and coated or wrapped exhaust is required unless you want to boil off some gas. A non-modified engine will not see much improvement over say a set of rebuilt SUs. Two inch bored out SUs on a slightly modded L series engine is a very good way to go also. Mileage? From 25 to 8 mpg depending on my right foot. Average seems to be around 16 but then I drive my 3.2L hard. ITBs with a good air/fuel computer would give me 20-40 more hp but at a cost of another $2-3K. Triples aren't perfect but they are very very nice at what they do.
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Glad to see you in a Z with a real paint job....
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3.2L NA motor, 5-spd, 3:90 w/quaife, 300ZXT CVs and a R.Tyler mount. All is quiet......
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Actually, it has happened in "real" life at a number of car shows but not at the 290+ level, only between individual cars in a specific class and I am going to assume it will continue into the future unless it has been corrected.
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Two things. One, if someone lost in a tie with another Z in my class because they had a dirty clutch MC, when that part is not covered under the judging rules, I would expect them to raise an unholy stink. And they would have some pretty solid ground to stand on. You want "bulk items" or general overall appearance to count towards a final score, then include them in the rules. If not, then stand back and watch folks get angry, confused and frustrated. Second, in keeping with my own personal opinion on car shows I will repeat a statement I've made to numerous car owners - "The trophies cost about $10., here's $10., go buy one and stop fretting about your score".
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Please provide specific location within the rules that show where a judge would be allowed to take off points for say, a missing washer bottle, a dirty steering coupler or clutch MC. And no, the comment section doesn't count because of a rule change several years ago that took that option away from an individual judge. Not saying it's right or wrong, just saying you can't have it both ways. Either you follow what is written and contained in the rules or you start reading something into them that isn't there. That path takes you down the road of individual rule making and it was my understanding that consistent judging across the country was the idea.
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There no "judged in bulk" items but rather very specific items that are clearly noted in the judging rules under each of the three major areas (engine, body, interior). Therefore you can have a dirty, missing or cracked washer bottle, steering coupler, or clutch MC and still score a 100 if all the items on the judging list are in perfect condition. The older rules (in place several years ago) left a few points (I believe it was 3) in each major area to be used by the judge as a "catch-all" to cover these non-listed items. Use the rules to your advantage....
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Mr. Coffey could have also included clutch MC, wash bottle and pump, wiper motor, etc. Knowing and understanding the rules allows one to focus on just the parts that are actually judged.
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Chris - constructive comments re: doing it right and not rushing a document out before it's ready is not, in my book bitching. To go out with perhaps the most important if not THE MOST IMPORTANT document that the ZCCA is known for without it being simple to understand is counter-productive. Not sure what the rush was since the next convention is more than 9 months away. And Chris, there are a large number of Z folks who do documents for a living and I'm sure a few would have volunteered to assist the ZCCA on this matter. You are not alone and you get to spread the blame around more. And as an aside, if you want to discuss "factory installed AC units", then include model and year, since you now have folks asking about AC units in S30s when in point of fact you where describing Zs from 1979 on.
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Too bad the revisions weren't highlighted so people would know what was changed and what wasn't. A summary of the significant revisions should be posted as well up front.
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Mark the two shafts so you line it back up correctly as you may end up turning the wheel to get at all the bolts.
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I have his rails and floors in my 240Z and they are the best solution on the market. The rails are also very close to OEM rails. That said I have a set of my own rails over his as I ended up doubling the hp/torque and needed the extra re-enforcement (www.baddogparts.com). For a stock S30, Charlie's parts should be your first and only choice.