gnosez

That's a 260/280 firewall bracket, not one for a 240 and the shaft going to the carbs should have the hook pointing downwards.

Get in line.....

Pictures??

All vintages and models (of Datsun/Nissan vehicles) are welcome at ZCCNE events and we hope they come out for the annual Japanese Car and Bike day coming up in August in Brookline, MA. More info to follow. The event shown above was a simple cruise-in on a Saturday morning.

I have an unused set of OEM mustache bushings ($75./plus shipping) if you want to switch back.

Replaced w/?? (rubber/poly)? If w/poly then the whine was likely always there but the rubber insulated you from the noise.

I have them used....

So, I noticed this thread when it began and read a few posts but saw that was being handled and didn't need my input. Then last weekend my 240 began stumbling around 4-4.5K rpm and I revisited the thread to see if the problem might be related. The final solution is contained in the above title but first here's what I did: I checked voltage at the battery and the Pertonix feed wire, I took out the GM 120 amp one-wire and had it checked (no issues). The battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and installed a new fan belt. Checked all the spark plugs, replaced the cap and rotor, and installed new fuel filters (Holley 100 micron before the Mallory 110gh fuel pump and stock fuel filter in the engine bay). Checked the fuel pressure and flow under load. Disconnected the MSD - 6LA box and hooked up the Pertonix directly to the positive side of the new battery. After each of these changes I took the car for a test drive. It got better but not perfect. I could drive it through 5,000 rpm but it stumbled when you pushed it hard. Then last night after the 13 inning RedSox/Phillies game I had a thought. So this morning I removed the covers on the Mukunis and found two of three of them had loose jets. Once tightened the car runs up to well over 100mph and has no hesitation at all. I doubt this will help the original poster as i'm guessing he has stock SUs, but I'd think about looking at my carbs before doing anything else. When you're a Jet.....snap, snap (go ask your parents).

Saw one at ZDaYZ and it was pretty interesting. Don't know how it drives but it looked cool. And the name you were thinking of Jon was "Element", which is not fun to drive but easy to clean (inside).

The same reason why those '60s and '70s euro sports cars stopped production applies still. 240Zs: Cost are lower. More parts are available. They run in the rain.

Email me - john@baddogparts.com

The only company that sells front rails is: ZeddFindings (www.datsunzparts.com). Our frame rails (Bad Dog Parts) start at the TC rod box and go back under the seats.

You don't need to modify the console, just bend the shifter.

Maybe to get the other 30% back you need to follow up with a good quality conditioner...

Since I am on my third wife (23 yrs now), I KNOW about expenses.....

I forgot to mention the PDK front triangular strut bar and the roll bar/strut bar in the rear. Once on jack stands you can remove one side and the other side stays up on its' own. Some might call it harsh but harsh is when I turn the HTS shocks all the way to firm.

One mans ride is another mans backache... My '72 sits on coil-over struts w/Tokico HTS and 275lb springs, poly bushings, larger sway bars and a heim joint TC rod. It is driven on bumpy New England roads with 2 degrees of negative camber, 4 degrees of front caster and sits at 6-inches @ rockers. Is it stiff? You bet. Do I sometimes think to soften it up? Yes. Have I ever done so? No. Does my wife ride in my Z? No. Would she if I changed the suspension? Maybe. But first I'd have to install a different exhaust. Set your suspension up to where it makes you happy and then enjoy......

Once the bolt(s) are loose, then for the fronts you use a channel lock and the rears you can use a flat punch pin and a hammer. If the fronts don't turn then you need to spread out the crossmember. You'd be doing this to get your alignment settings so once they are done then you tighten the bolt(s), mark your settings in some manner (paint, scratch, etc.) and go drive your Z. The tool, if one could call it that, is worthless. Throw it out.

That's what most people call me - simple....

Tape the inside edge of the center cap and see if that helps. As to bending the contact arm, I seem to remember doing it but not as much as you had to.

When I put my car back together this spring I was in a rush to see if my rough alignment settings would be good enough to let me drive the car (on the highway) to the shop. It had been raining for several days and when a small window of opportunity arose with no rain and no major traffic to worry about, I took it out. Of course I hadn't gotten around to attaching the latch yet. Under 40mph, no issue, over 40, oh baby. The so-called cowl induction hoods on Zs are no different. They blow air out and don't as named - suck air into the engine bay at the intersection of the cowl and hood. I ran tests on our race car doing 110 down the straight at NHMS to verify this.

If anyone doubts that air builds up in the engine bay, remove your hood latch and drive down the road. Around 40mph the hood will lift and unless you slow down will pop up so that it blocks your vision of the on-coming traffic.

The pin needs to be adjusted to the correct height. This is a trial and error project but once you get it right it should stay closed. I would strongly suggest that you NOT turn the screw in (shorten it) too much as it could make it very hard to open. Make your adjustments in small increments. It's more likely your pin needs to be longer. Also check your hood alignment, especially the position of your hood hinges. It pops at highway speeds due to built up air pressure.