gnosez

I have a coupler made out of ABS if you want to switch. Road input would be immediate.

I'm thinking a week...

I asked my wife, an unbiased source, what would make a nice prize and this is what she said - "give the winner one hour of your time to converse on all matters inane and minuscule as they relate to Z cars, then give the runner up two hours of your time".

You can spray silicone on the door seals or spray on to a cloth and then apply to the seals. Now wipe off any excess, then shut your doors and leave the car in the sun for several hours. You may need to do this a few times. The seals will shrink just a bit and the doors will close quite nicely.

Sorry for the delay but I had to fly down and get my in-laws car and drive it home today. As some of you have already guessed or surmised the answer was provided by the second person who posted on this thread - Mr. Camouflage. After worrying for 4 years that as soon as a mounted them and drove a few miles they would be hit by a rock, I found I could (at great expense) buy replacement lenses, so the OEM gnose style head light covers got put on. The other concern was that since my nose is an aftermarket piece and wasn't as well made as one would want, the alignment/mounting was a bit tricky. I was also thinking that I had to remove the gnose to install them so that made me wait as well. Of course I didn't have to at all. Add in the fact that once I started drilling the holes for the mounting plates I was totally committed. I would attach pictures but the lenses are so clean and clear right now that all you see is the metal rings. Now I need to find clear plastic film to cover the lenses. I have the stuff they sell with it already cut-out in the pattern for your specific car, but it is too thick to match the contours of the gnose covers. My "hope this brightens up your day" was a Freudian slip on my part. I thank everyone for their contributions and hope you've enjoyed this post.

Nice idea. We wired all the lights to come on (save the reverse bulb) when you hit the brakes on the race car. They are bright...

I not saying it can't be made to work in an S30 but did you take into account all the necessary ancillary parts to do so (abs brakes, controller, tranny, etc.)?

I see that the corner valances and front signal lights are very different from either the 240 or 260 models sold here in the U.S. The wheels are interesting too. Thanks for the pictures. Post more if you have them....

Welcome to the site. Is that the OEM driver's side mirror? I ask because it sits lower than normal for mirrors on a U.S. 240/260. Do you a passenger side one too? If your 260 was built in '77/78 and has Hitachi carbs, does it have an L26 engine as well? If yes, then I guess that's where they all went when Datsun moved forward with the 280 sold in the U.S. in '75. Interesting that your car also has the early 240 front and rear bumpers as well. In the U.S., 260s had similar bumpers until the middle of 1974 when they got mandated safety bumpers like those on U.S. 280s.

Yes, as long as no insider trading takes place....

100% of $300 would be $300 which adds up to $600, so 300% equals $1,200. plus or minus the current market value.... I really like the early plastic pieces. The price per pound would be more than bottled water. No increase in performance however.

I tried to modify my hint by saying that it would make my S30 a (very) little bit faster. Whether I or anyone else could feel that the Z was faster is problematic. Hadn't thought about a rallye clock, but then I should have figured you of all people would have both the experience and memory to access all sorts of rare and lightweight bits and pieces. Glad I could brighten up your day in some small way.....

So I finally had the opportunity and nerve to install something for my S30 I purchased that has gone up in value by over 300% since I got it in 2004. The parts (4 pieces total) weigh in at under 2 lbs and were purchased for $300. They should make my 240 go a little bit faster. So two questions. 1) Name the part 2) Name the most expensive part (price divided by weight) in your opinion that you can buy for an S30 And had I known I would have invested my 401K funds in selective Z parts....

I did indeed have an opportunity to discuss this issue MikeWags today and it seems that the left rear wheel is toeing out and the right is toeing in. That would mean the entire rear suspension is canted off to the left a few degrees. I suggested he get an alignment (by laser) done before proceeding with any further work so he can determine how much of an issue it is. The delron bushings could help with a small alignment tweak. We also discussed removing the plates (as Randy said it's 8 bolts and nothing else needs to be removed) and that he could use a small machine square to determine if the plates were bent before he took them out as well. Mike says the car has not been hit in the time he has owned it and the issue has just come up. All the bushings are 31 yrs old, so one or more or the RCA/spindle pin bushings could be bad. I must have a dozen sets of plates from S30s I've stripped and not one of them is bend or damaged. Strange problem....

The whole set-up is fantastic! Copies of hard to find or NLA parts made while you wait. Seems we need to find a company that has this set-up and would let us send them parts to be duplicated. Production could then be done as needed.

Thanks for reminding me. I doubt my dad invented it (memory stick) but as I recall it was made of wood....one wack and you seemed to remember what you were supposed to do.

The rears fit '70-78 S30s and not ZXs.....

Well the car seems to have a 280Z fender badge and a ZX badge on the rear. It is not an S30....

It's a 280ZX 2+2 right hand drive....

If memory serves me correct the violet wire is not used in your application. Check the MSD website for a wiring diagram.

Goose - I completely agreed that all rollbars/cages should be padded but am wondering about your comment re: "you come up in the belts"? How did this happen? I can only assume you were not using a 5-6pt harness set-up and instead were using a stock seat belt. A correctly tightened harness would hold the occupant in their seat even if the vehicle was upside down. Been there and done that. One of the first things one learns when 4-wheeling is that stock belts do not limit upward movement. One good bash of the noggin on the truck roof and you go get yourself a harness should you wish to do serious off-roading at speed. Glad to hear all you got out of it was a headache and sore neck.

I believe you are looking for something like this sold at www.baddogparts.com

The stress mentioned in the Hybridz forum is related to those folks who have installled solid diff mounts like those sold by MSA and Arizona Z Car. You can also make your own solid mount by just welding up the sides of an existing OEM diff mount (we have done that on our "club" race car). The Ron Taylor mount (named after Ron), replaces the band strap device used to control the diff front moving upward. The new mount incorporates a GM style poly transmission bushing to act as a cushion between the diff and the mount itself. More rigid than the OEM rubber mount but less rigid than a solid or welded mount. The stress mentioned in the Hybridz post looks like it causes the diff/rear control arm cross member to crack. Since the Ron Taylor mount suspends the diff from above, the diff is no longer attached to the cross member. Hence, there can be no stress crack related issues. And any Z with a clunk issue would benefit from this type of diff mount whether you have a stock engine or a V8.

If you decide to instead buy one go direct to the source: www.autopowerindustries.com Either street (61170L - $425.) or race (60170L - $530.) plus shipping. I have the street in my 240 which I modified with a bar for the harnesses. This was 6 years ago and the prices were about $100. less. Easy fitment without help.