gnosez

Which air cleaner gaskets are you searching for? The ones that go between the SUs and the base of the filter holder or the one that seals the cover to the base of the filter holder? I believe I have both, new, OEM.

The issue here is to remember that any application of downforce at one end of the car will cause lift at the other end. Adding a front airdam means you need a equal downforce devise at the rear. Add a rear wing and your front airdam better provide more downforce than the wing. Balancing this all out makes for a more stable and fun car.

You could have any of the following issues causing your problem: 1) tire balance 2) alignment 3) loose steering rack 4) old suspension bushings 5) loose suspension 6) bad ball joints/tie-rods/shocks/spings 7) no front air dam 8) bad front tires 9) car not balanced Go through the list and check (and correct) as needed. The S30s need a front air dam to keep the tires in contact with the road at speeds in excess of 70mph. At speeds higher than that the the steering wheel will feel light, as you have all of about 2-inches of rubber touching the ground.

.....to the International Z Car Clubs of America (ZCCA) convention. We being Pete Sanders (Z-Ya) and me, John Jeffery (gnosez - Bad Dog Parts). Pete is driving his w/300rwhp turbo powered 240 and I'm dragging out the "club" race car (185rwhp). Since, there is some extra room, I'll be bringing along some parts to sell as well. Looking forward to meeting up again with the many fine folks who come out for the convention.

...secret, no?

...more likely Texas.

....but if I had to guess, I'd say Nashville (what with Nissan moving there and all). The official announcement will be made Friday night October 3rd at the ZCCA convention.

Go to www.zcca.org and look under "downloads". The official ZCCA rules are there.... I'll be doing tech inspection Monday morning for cars going to the track, but if you can stop by I will go over you car real quick to let you know what spots to work on.

As an instructor here's what I expect from a student: 1) a safe car 2) similar safety harness as driver 3) a responsible attitude 4) the ability to listen and do as instructed Expect to drive your car somewhere between 50-70% of its' capabilities if this is your first time out on a track depending on your overall driving experience. Now that might mean that at 70% of your car's capability you might be at 100% of yours. A good instructor will sense this and have you back down. What you want to be able to do is traverse the track in a manner that says to other drivers - "I'm not going to be the guy who gets into a wreck or cause you to wreck your car". Learning the line, where to brake, being around other cars (at speed), shifting, and for some breathing are more than enough to get a handle on during your 20 minute sessions. If you listen and follow instructions, you will have a smile on your face that will last a long time. There were no "slow down chicanes" at The Glen in '05. I just hope Mid-Ohio doesn't put them out. NHMS had them in '03 but they have been part of all non-SCCA track events since '02 (no NASCAR ovals where you could go 90-100mph in the bowl - bummer). You drove the track at whatever speed was safe for you. Everyone but instructors and the most experienced drivers had an instructor for the day. If allowed I will take a passenger on a fun run in our "club" race car. See you all there.......

Can you either tell me or direct me to a post listing your car specs (engine, suspension, etc.)?

We're running the front 300ZX vented set-up with stock rear drums (Porterfield 4S pads and shoes) in our 240 track car (180HP@rwhs) and we have never had a problem stopping the car or with fading of any kind. I have Wilwoods in the front and the 240SX rears in my street 240 (255HP@rwhs) and have had no issues with that set-up either.

The Larz Anderson Auto Museum in Brookline, MA is holding it's Japanese Car and Motorcycle Day on Sunday, August 17th. For information and directions to the event go to: http://www.larzanderson.org Parking is on the lawn in front of the museum and attendance is a mix of car fans and families coming out to the park.

Many thanks. Now I can put them in and get the car inspected.

I have a set of Hella Supertone horns but have misplaced the wiring instructions. If someone has them please PM or email me (john@baddogparts.com). Thanks in advance ......

Back in the early 70s I purchased a set of concave headlights that were clear from the middle up (no diffusers). I installed them in my '63 VW bus w/6V halogen bulbs. I later transfered them to my next vehicle (260Z), when that got stolen, they went back in the bus, then into a Jeep Commander, and into my 71 Landcrusier, and finally into Volvo 544. By this time the glass was pitted and the backing rusted. Totally illegal then and I suppose now as well. They'd shoot a pencil beam at least 7,000 ft with a clear white light (12V version). I've been looking for a set for years (both here and in Europe) so if anyone has a line on a set let me know.

How rotor friendly are they and as someone else asked can they be used on the street without making too much noise?

I should have a 280 cable back in storage. If you still need one, email me at: john@baddogparts.com www.baddogparts.com

I am out in the Persian Gulf and have been since April. I am hoping to get back home before June 15th. I will be able to contact folks looking for parts at that time. I'm sorry if this upsets anyone's restoration schedule.

I have taken the face off my 240 spring driven clock and mounted it on a 280 electric clock. You'll need a green bulb and some patience to get it all back together but it keeps dam near perfect time.

There's a 89-90 GTPZXT sitting in RI and the guy wanted $40k a few years back. The reason is two-fold. One there is no class to run the car in now and two it would take $100-200K minimum to get it track ready. I'll beat many of the parts are missing and most are one-offs. Plus there is the issue of driving it. It was a beast then and I'm sure it is still now.

Try Wolfcreek Racing or Dave Rebello. Either can help you solve this problem.

Our hinges are indeed copies of the original (and NLA) gnose special hood hinge. The standard hinge has the hood go out and then tilt up while the gnose goes down and then tilts. Screw up the geometry and your gnose will suffer as a result. The hinges we make are a close to the originals as possible (including the cad plating). The price reflects the quality of the part and the work that goes into making it. Can you modify a hinge to work like a gnose hinge? Yes, without question. Do you want a real gnose hinge? That's up to you to answer. And yes I am out of the country (Persian Gulf) and hope to return in early to mid-June.

The rear bottom valance attaches to the bottoms of both rear quarter panels. If you weld the valance on with more than what the stock dimensions called for the rear end of the body will be pinched inwards. At the very least you need to measure another 240 to see how wide to make your restored Z. Good luck with it.

I had the same issue back in '03 when we did my restoration. An English wheel is needed to get the right curve but more importantly you need to get the spacing (width) correct or the rear will be either too wide or too pinched. Too pinched is worst as it makes putting the gas take back in a mother of a job. If I had to do it again I'd cut one off another Z and weld it in.

I'm confused as to why you would bore and stroke a 2.4L engine when you could do the same with an L28 and get a 3.0L motor giving you another 50+ HP for the same money. I have had Dave build me a 3.0L and 3.2L version of the L28. Both are NA (2-inch SUs on the 3.0 and triple Mukunis on the 3.2L). The 3.2L NA does 314hp@crank on 91 octane. I'd have him build me another motor if I had the money.....