gnosez

Any pics??

I third the recommendation to use only NGKs. I have my engine back from Rebello and am using B8ES (no P and no R), but this is a heavily modded L28.

I have one laying around and will look more closely at it tonight and report back...

About time, I might say....

You can always add a little TORCO fuel additive to your gas tank.....

After spending more money than I admitted to my wife, my 3.2L stroker w/44mm Mikunis got 314hp and 279#s torque@crank (5500-6800rpm) on the dyno last week. I should have it installed back in my 240 later this week. I'm looking to get about 250rwhp and 220# torque. A big help in smoothing out the A/F ratios has been the purchase of a TWM fiberglass cold air box and a set of shorter horns. It was running at 13.7 across the board (2500-7000rpm). Now all I need to do is to cut/enlarge a hole in the radiator support for the 3-inch hose that will connect to the K&N filter.

I'm not sure any of the BSR valve covers were actually installed on any of the cars themselves but were more of an after-market, sales effort at the time. The BSR/Newman 280 ( a 240 with 280 taillights) that ran in CP and GTU looks to be coming up for auction next year. It had undergone a $100k restoration and was run at both the ZCCA NY and NH conventions. I'd expect it to go for over $175k with lots of spare parts and misc. historical items. Whatever Z you're talking about, a simple pre-race refreshing could run you a few thousand at the very least.

Without revealing any pre-publication news (while some might think there is a link between the aero-wind tunnel test results and the last Harry Potter book due out later this week, there is no concrete proof at this point), I believe I can say this about the questions being raised re: gnose results. The gnose used in the test and those used in the original "works" race cars are not similar. Therefore any comparsion between the two is truely apples and oranges. And yes, I have and will be making additional modifications to my aftermarket gnose to increase it's usefulness.

Tony - I sure hope Alan can help you on this as I'd hate for you and your team to be treated this way after all your hard work. As a semi-ZG owner let me know what I can do (re:kneecapping).....

I find it interesting that a majority fo the posts in this thread reflect the need to be pleasing to the eye vs functionality. I too have run the "BRE" style airdam because it just seems right (when you look at the car). But from the driver's seat, while the BRE is good (much better than nothing or smaller Euro-style lip), it is not as efficient as a full airdam like the MSA III version. I'm running a gnose (hence the screen name) on my 240 at the present time and it is okay but it still needs a spoiler. That is this year's winter project. When the Hybridz wind-tunnel results come out later this month all this will be easier to understand, but right now there'a a news black-out until the magazine hits the stands.

Contact TidewaterZ (Todd Wagner) who owns and operates a Z shop in your area (757-868-6753).

When I was running Rebello's 3.0L w/ 2-ich SUs in my 240 several years ago he recommended using the K&N filter and punching out three to five 1-inch holes on the top of the housing to let in more air. I ran it that way with no problems whatsoever until upgrading to triples and a stroker motor.

Unless you've added a cam, done head work, bored out your existing SUs then the stock air box and horns are the best combo (IMHO) that you can find for the price. Just clean it all up and add paint....

Alex - using my $2m winnings I'd take the: 1) 240/280 BSR/Newman car for $150,000., 2) BSR/Newman 300ZXT for $250,000. and the 3) twin turbo 280ZX BSR/Newman car for $1.5M If I could have only one of them it would be the 240/280 with the twin trumpet pipes. A bit cheaper to maintain ($3-4k refresher before each race). Plus Paul and I are the same size so the seat and pedal set-up is about as perfect as I've ever been in any car. All three plus the Tom Cruise showroom stock race car (300ZX) will be up and running by the end of the year.

Did the usual bought a 240 in AZ thing and drove it home in 3 days (3,001 miles) back in 1999. Last month coming back from the Tail of the Dragon weekend, I did 1,100 miles in 16 hrs (should have been under 14 but I got caught in bad traffic). Blew every piston it seems. Engine being rebuilt, diff carrier bearing went as well so it's been rebuilt and 280 rear stub axles going in w/CVs before I drive it again. Roostmonkey did it in 16 hrs too and he was hauling his '70 behind his pick-up. Florida ZCCA convention coming up in October, so that'll be another 1200 miles one-way (mapquest says 20 hrs, last time I did it was back in '75 in my almost new 260, it took me 15 hrs.).

Being old enough to have owned and driven dozens of 2 seater sports cars from England, Italy, France, Japan, and Germany (Fiat, MG, Spitfire, TRs, BMW, Porsche, Jags,1600, Healeys, etc.) I would say that the 240 is much closer to the experience one would get from one of the cars mentioned above. It was not considered a "true" sports car back when they were new, but they were reliable and could be driven at night and in the rain (even both). Plus they were cheap comparatively speaking and mods were plentiful (triples carbs, diffs, shocks, FG fenders, spoilers, etc.). That said for a long trip a 280 is much more comfortable to be in all day but for those who like the fell of the car to be transmitted up ones' backside and through one's fingers, a 240 is to me the way to go.

I'm running 44mm Mikunis on my 3.2L and the only reason I'd run 50s would be if I made it into a track-only car.

My wife named it "baby" as in "anything you want, you got it, babyyyyyy". She's seen the receipts from MSA, Courtesy, Rebello, et al.

This has been covered many, many, many times. The seal kits are not OEM for 240s and as such are larger than the ones that came with the car. If after moving the hinges it still is a tight fit, spray the seals w/silicone and shut the door(s) hard and leave in the sun. You might have to do this a few times. The silicone will shrink the rubber.

Drove back 1,100 miles yesterday but it was worth it. The trick to the Dragon is do your run(s) early in the day, before the bikes and yahoos come out. We did a 140 miles loop out and over to the skyway 3 days running. I'll be back next year and I'll start doing pushups sooner in the year to get my non-power steering arms in shape.

Driving down to the Tail of the Dragon and watching people try and figure out what kind of car it is. And then having people come up at rest stops and gas stations to tell you what a nice Z you have.....1079 miles so far, another 187 to go tomorrow.

What Carl said.......ordered and got 2 of them last month. Now to get the one that's stuck in my 5-spd out is the real issue.

I got a space-saver spare tire from a Honda (15 inch) and one from an '84 300ZX today at the local junkyard. While the 300ZX wheel looks deep it in fact will NOT fit over the 240SX rear calipers. That's good because it weighs a ton. The Honda fits, just with a hair-breath of clearance. It now sits in my spare tire well. I will return the 300ZX spare and try and find another Honda. It wasn't in any specific car so I don't what year or model.

Ah, a jailhouse lawyer. For judging situations stock has been considered to be as it left the factory but without any dealer options installed (in a running condition ie., ready to drive). Car Show suggestions from the guy who wrote the guidance manual, do whatever you think is right for your convention. The ZCCA primary concern is that it take place with as few issues as possible. That said, the only real ZCCA item on the board is the judging of Zs not people's choice, not t-shirts for judges, not nothing else (see above as to issues or problems). Plan, organize, and manage an efficient event and you've done your job. You have little control over the judges, judging, rules, etc. Your job is framework. Once you've done that you can do whatever pleases you for everything else.

If you want big results from big bucks go look at the L-series motors Rebello Motors builds. He's right in CA too. How does 314hp@crank in an NA L28 sound? Brian510 made over that in his 3.2L. A turbo will get you much more, however.