gnosez

I would be happy to buy those Mikunis

We make and sell the following parts: 240/early 260 frame rails - these start 9 inches in front of the firewall and end were the OEM version does. It covers about 2/3 of the TC rod box and are made from 13 gauge steel. Sold as single or as a set. Can be used as a complete replacement or a slip over to existing rails. 240 optional rear rails - a personal design piece that was never offered. It connects the under seat rails with the rear of the car. Sold only as a set. A stock rear sway bar will not fit but a Suspension Tech will 280/late 260 rails - made to match the contours of the 280 floor pan. Sold as a pair or a single rail. Same thickness as the 240 rails. These will not fit aftermarket 280 floor pans which are flat. Our 240 rails can be used. Sway bar plates - used to keep the engine bay rails and fenders from separating under high stress when a larger than stock sway bar is used. Single point jack plates - used if you want to change both tires on a side using only one jack point. 240/early 260 seat brackets - replacement mounts sold by side

Reduce the weight of your Z and get the feel of added HP.......

Factory replacement rails were sold as a one piece item, starting at the radiator support and ending behind the seat mounts. I have one side which was used to develop our 240 rails.

Assuming you get the sway bar bushing end bolt to fit, remember that you now have lots of suspension setting options (ride height, toe, camber, caster) you didn't have with the stock set-up. You should include corner balancing to your checklist and don't forget to loosen the end links and then once you're happy with the balance and while the car is still on the scales, tighten the an end link until you see a weight transfer. Back off until it returns to whatever it was before and repeat for the other side.

What filter(s) are you running? A large (100um) from the tank to the pump and a small (less than 10 um) to the carbs? Float needles get stuck. I have been adding Marvel oil to each fuel jug after the middle carb float stuck closed causing a lean and expensive incident. No issues since.

Thanks for great picture! Perfect. My issue was similar. It would pop out of third when I lifted to brake at 7400rpm. My planned solution - put a ball bearing on top of the spring and use washers to position the bolt. Too much tension and you can't get it in gear. Too little and it pops out. A Goldilocks situation.....

I am aware of three detents on the sandwich plate. Two on the driver's and one on the top right. Can someone tell me which one is for 3rd gear? The top right one seems to be 1st and second.

Rebello uses N42 heads on his high performance and race engines so, yes, $70 is a good price. Grab things that are still in good shape - glass, trim (in and out), wheels, electrical items, any body parts like fenders or headlight buckets, etc.

Try a half and half mix of say 93 and 110 and then see if your SUs produce the same gray color.

I am not aware of slotted rotors cracking unlike the cross-drilled ones. Those don't make any sense in regards to cooling as the brake pads block any hot gases whereas the slotted ones allow those gases to escape. I currently run slotted vented rotors on the race car but I had them cryo and REM treated so they aren't stock. A mostly stock Z doesn't need vented, slotted or cross-drilled, just a nice set of pads.

I ended up putting a 280 clock with a 240 face plate and bezel in my 72. Keeps time within a minute or less over a full year.

There was a factory Datsun race team in the USA? Who knew?

SW/12 with no slots or holes rotors. Those I had cyro and REM treated.

If you are keeping the drums you can install a prop valve as long as you remove the stock one. You could also consider upgrading your shoe compound (Carbotech is a good source or Porterfield). Not a fan of cross-drilled rotors as the hot gas is trapped by the pads on both sides of the caliper. Slotted rotors solve this issue by having slots longer than the pads themselves. I have run the vented rotors with the S12-W Toyo calipers and drums for nearly 10 years on the 240 race car with good results. I moved to rear discs to get great results (jury is out on that until the car sees a track)

I agree that the only way to tell is to remove the flywheel. For all the posts about a main seal leak I wonder how many turn out to be a leak from the oil pan gasket. Wind will push any oil leak towards the tranny so a quick check should include a "smell" test to determine if it is engine or gear oil followed by a tightening of the pan bolts if needed. Wonderful work by the way, just great.

Lead based paints, grease and of course gasoline was banned in the ,ate 1970s due to its' real potential to cause serious brain damage, especially in children. Lead pipes in the USA were still allowed into the early 19080s and lead in plumbing solder not banned until 1986. Production of lead itself was a primary concern for people downstream. We found high levels of lead in a public playground sandbox miles from a lead smelter. It can be ingested, inhaled and absorbed into the body. It has been theorized that lead pipes, paint, cosmetics with lead along with cooking pans and plates caused the Romans and later civilizations right up to the 20th Century to not develop into their full potential. It will not make you glow in the dark however. That requires something with a half-life or a biological phosphorescence but jaundice is a pretty good third choice.

Extremely nice work! I might have to look into the cost of shipping my 240 to you. I hope you wore chemical resistant gloves and a mask when you took apart the half-shafts as they contain toxic chemicals (lead primarily).

And I keep throwing you softballs in the hopes you will hit at least one out of the park.....

-return those springs get longer ones. Problem solved in five words. Where's Captain Obvious when you need him?

Toyota

I found these today looking for something else...

The GTU car was the one Bob Sharp picked when I asked of all his cars if he only could drive one which would it be. The rear tires sit on 15 inch rims which was allowed after the Porsche teams requested a rule change. That change was reversed after Bob won the Championship. For vintage events I am required to run 7 inch wide rims but for "fun" events I run 10s in the rear and on slicks not treaded tires. The lap times vary depending on distance covered but I picked up 5 seconds at The Glen on a test & tune day based on using just 10 inch wide rears. With 15s instead it would not be hard to imagine that I could take corners with more entry speed and hook up quicker coming out.

It idles quite nicely, big cam, twin trumpets, a rich rumble. There are two issues. It doesn't generate enough vacuum, so the first fix was an electric vac pump for a year and then last winter Wilwood pedals with MCs which cured that issue and two, idling or just driving back in to the garage from the track will leave a nice deposit on the plugs and top of the pistons. After a run at WOT here's the color of the exhaust...

Suspension Techniques