gnosez

It just worked 1 minute ago when I tried it. ??

I see you mentioned that you have replaced your floor pans and frame rails. If these are from Zeddfindings than you have made a wise choice. But there is a however. If you plan on installing a larger turbo or V-8 into your 240 we at Bad Dog recommend you add more beef to your frame rails (even if they are new). Either do it yourself or use ours, either way you're going to need them. Our rails are 3-times thicker than the OEM rails and the new version coming out in early January '06 will tie into the rear just behind the seats and before the diff. It will a side flange running the lenght of the floor pan to add strength and make welding it on easier. The first set are being shipped to Ken Jones who is doing a 5.6L Titan installation into his 240. If you plan on using a larger front sway bar weld on plates there too to stop the inner fender from breaking away from the front frame rail. And you might want to add a set of single point jack plates that allow you to lift your Z from one side and get both tires off at once. Go to: www.baddogparts.com and click on the "Products" button. We make the front sway bar and jack plates as you might imagine. Good Luck with your project.

Your inner is okay if it stays up by itself. As to Victoria British, their website is: www.victoriabritish.com The outer tie rods are as follows: 1) 62-010 (LH) $19.95 2) 62-011 (RH) $19.95 3) 79-813 grease fittings (order 2) $0.95/each

Here's my Z crash story: Entering highway at 65mph, turn to see if left lane is clear (uphill climb with lots of semi's in the right lane), turn my eyes forward to see large dog, swerve left, hit patch of sand, both feet in now, Z goes sideways and then head on into guard rail, Z scrapes along rail until it hits upright, then spins around 180 degress to crush the back end. Z totaled, insurance coughs up the dough reluctantly, slight sore shoulders and neck but the 5-point harness, roll bar, and Cobra seats kept me in place and safe. A 4-point is okay but a 5-point is made so you don't submarine under the belt itself. Proper fitment is as important as wearing one in the first place. Here's my $.02 on airbags: 1) they were made as was stated earlier as an accessory to seat belt use. 2) they are made to protect a 180 lb male who is NOT wearing a seat belt 3) they travel at speeds up to 200mph to do so (see #2 above) 4) the most common injuries from an airbag deployment are black eyes and a broken nose If the bag deploys when your hands are at locations higher than 10 & 2, the bag will throw your hands into your face (at speeds approaching 200mph!). Now imagine someone who had both hands at the 12 position and got into a head on accident. Concussion-city. For the reasons stated above that is why short people are very likely to be harmed by airbag deployments, as are children riding in the front seat. It is also the reason why there are now slower version available and cut-off switches. The use of pedal extensions on a single driver vehicle should be considered. Mulitiple driver cars should seek a dealer's help. Some newer models (mostly SUVs) come with adjustable pedals. This puts the driver farther from the airbag.

Now the cost differences between the outer tie rod and the inner are enough to make you cry.....

Here's mine: 1) GT40 - good enough for Bondarant, good enough for me 2) Austin Martin DB series - any one of them - just for cruising 3) MB - 1955 300 SLR - Stirling Moss's car w/hand activated air brake 4) Jaguar D-Type - for Limerock and The Glen And the MB custom build single car hauler (left in US after the 300SLR victory tour) It could outrun most cars of the day with the SLR along for the ride)

VB has them listed at $19.95US each ($39.90 total) for part # 62-010/011 plus shipping

I'd start by checking for bad ground connections. Something is moving when you take a corner hard and making the relays click. Summer like in western Canada? Hope it moves east soon....I got some more outside work to do.

MSA gets their panels from Charlie Osborne at Zeddfindings (www.datsunzparts.com) up in Canada. Contact him directly. They need to be rolled to fit correctly. Take measurements before removing yours as it can make replacing the gas tank impossible if you make it too small an opening. This is not as easy as it looks....good luck.

Go to a Staples, Office max, etc. and buy a sheet of magnet film. Then cut to shape and you're done.

The sounds on the Bad Dog site are from my 72 240 w/3.2L - 44mm mikunis, 6 into one header, 2.75 pipe to Sebring Tuning (Jim Cook company) muffler. I can't say enough about how the muffler sounds and looks. It was a little over a $120. w/shipping and tip. It's the muffler Rebello has on his dyno (as Dave says if I have to listen to the thing all day it might as well sound good).

You can get them a lot cheaper by using Roostmonkey. He does them on exchange. Do a search over on zcar.com About a 1/3 less than MSA.

On the bottom right side of my website are links to 2 short vids of my car on the track and I think you might like the sound effects. Go to: www.baddogparts.com

Not to be a smart azz, but why not just put in another clock? Is the supply that low in your neck of the world? I replaced my 240 mechanical clock with a quartz one from a 280 and used the face plate from the 240 to keep the OEM look. The clock has never failed to give the correct time in 4 years. The only issue is the little green light dome has to be removed as the quartz works are larger. They make small green bulbs these days that work fine as a replacement.

You are quite correct to point out that a rev limiter set at 6500rpm would not be helpful in getting that last little bit on a long straightaway. I use a 7000 limiter on my MSD box but ratherly ever take the engine over 6500 because I'm not making any more power after 6400rpm.. It sounds great but in reality it's just that, noise.

I too suggest the 6500 limit. With both my 3.0 and now 3.2L engines anything over 6500 was just wasting gas and time. You need to be shifting well ahead of 6500. But of course it all comes down to your specific set-up. My engines were built to made power between 3200 and 6000rpm and for road courses, not 1/4 mile straights.

Go over to www.zcar.com and do a search on a guy named "Blue'. He has a site that lists almost every DIY project you might need explained. Good luck and make sure you get the measurements right....

Take a look at what we make for this problem area (www.baddogparts.com - product section). They are now $25/set plus shipping or if you're handy make them yourself. All that torque has to go somewhere....

Did you say shouting or shooting? Chris, I might be able to take you out in the club race car. A little rough around the edges but good enough for Steve Millen to take Mr. K for a ride (that's the plan as of today 'cause we have the only race car with a passenger seat installed). See you there!!!

The dealerships put on 2-4 schools for teens here in MA. You have to had your license for over a year to enter. Check with your insurance company about schools they might even sponsor. I sure wish more people took advanced courses....

The idea is to have a security system that has built in layers. These can include but not be limited to the following: 1) alarms - don't have one and don't like them 2) kill switch - installed between the battary and ignition (summit racing) 3) fuel pump switch 4) removable steering wheel/the club, etc. 5) flashing red light on dash 6) sticker on the side window 7) lojack 8) removable stereo Where you park is always important. Look for a new product from Bad Dog Parts this fall that will add another layer of defense and make it even harder for someone to steal your Z. We hoped to have it ready for the ZCCA convention in August but I've been out at the Depot in Umatilla, Or for too long to get the project finished. We are testing the furnaces where nerve gas is being destroyed. No samples are available.

I see no reason for you to install a "euro" distributor if your Z is mostly stock. Installing a Pertonix however is worth the money. I have both the euro and the Pertonix, plus a 3.2L to mount them on. Live in MA, over at the Depot in Umatilla for the next 4-5 weeks.

If you end up having to purchase your "totaled" Z back from the insurance company you only have to pay what a local junkyard would be willing to pay for it. Meaning next to nothing. The insurance company will NOT make any calls, so call around and get some quotes and take notes. I went through this 2 years ago and the average of three quotes came out to $78. My car was a real total but the suspension, interior, wheels, and drivetrain were worth over $10,000. (rebello 3.2L, custom wheels, quaiffe diff, coil-overs, etc.). I got it all back for $78.00 plus the damages on the car.

Try the Golden Knight Inn (607-535-8012) many consider it the best place to stay (5 miles to the track)

Nice info and well written! I have done several pairs so far and have found that a hairdryer or heat gun is a great tool to soften the old adhesive holding the lens onto the backing plate. Don't forget the little felt pad(s) that allow the water to run out. I use either caulk to put them back together. One lens had over 2 inches of fine Arizona road dust (28 yrs and 368,000 miles of southwest driving) in it. As to the chrome bands I have given up and after lightly sanding them paint them. Once I have the lens completely cleaned I paint them with clear. Mine are still new looking after 2 yrs. I wish I had painted the backing plate as was suggested. Next pair...