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gnosez

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Everything posted by gnosez

  1. Inf - have you tried lowering the amount of anti-freeze or using a water-wetter product for your Z? You would need to increase the anti-freeze as winter approaches but it does help. I've done both and noticed a difference.
  2. A nice 240 came up to the pre-car show classification station at the Long Beach ZCCA convention last year and we had a long look. The original owner had entered it in stock class but we found over a dozen non-stock items on the car. One of them was the FG fan shroud. The OEM ones were metal. I haven't seen one of those in years....
  3. They are only interchangeable if your radiator has been changed. The later ones have bolt patterns that match up to the later radiators. You need to measure the points where it attaches and locate one where the bolt holes will line up correctly. Ask the seller for these measurements before buying or ordering. The 70-73 will fit your 240 (new about $70. - used about $35-40). Starting in '74 they came in upper and lower halves. I don't know if any of the aftermarket units for the 240s come as single or 2-part pieces.
  4. gnosez

    Need mo rubber!

    Sorry - I forgot a major addition to stop the rubbing - camber plates! Brains not fully engaged today. This allows the wheels to travel upward into the wheelwell at a slight angle.
  5. gnosez

    Need mo rubber!

    I have used 16X8 wheels w/zero off-set and 225X45X16 tires and don't rub or hit the coil-over. However I have always rolled the inner lip (not visible from the outside) by cutting it every 1/2 inch and then tapping it up. I applied silicone caulk to seal it. A very simple test is to remove the spring and install the strut with the wheel/tire combo and jack the wheel up through its' range of motion. Be sure to leave the bump stop in place. If you do hit then a solution I have on my current 240 (245X45X16) should work for you. It involves taking the vertical flat section of the wheelwell (about 1/2 inch) and rolling it out to make a flare. Grind the inner wheel, add a little bondo for the outer side and some fiberglass for the inner wheel area. Or you could just cut the well and bond on some flares. Hope this helps.
  6. I agree re: smaller tires but the supply is quite limited and for those of us with toyo 4X4 brakes they would fit if you use 14-inch wheels. As to higher springs rates, I too agree this is a better way to go but wonder if that is true for autocross activities as opposed to track usage.
  7. Go over to www.zhome.com and scroll down to the technical reference section on the left side of the screen.....
  8. The problems are many but the most common are: 1) nut/bolt attaching arms to motor loose or off 2) pivot points need to be cleaned and greased 3) wiper motor needs brushes or is shot 4) nut holding arms loose 5) electrical connections loose, blown fuse, combo switch issue The motor can be rebuild. The pivots can be regreased and the electrical stuff can be tracked down it just takes time. And don't use dual wiper blades as they put more pressure (more resistance) on the motor.
  9. I looked over your set-up specs and agree that caster could be a factor in the way it handles now. I'm unsure for AX events what 400 lb spring rates will do on a 2100 lb vehicle. On the track, yes. To me it seems that the right tire pressure, properly adjusted sway bars, and corner balancing would come into play more than spring rates. And I agree that you need to check the bumpsteer issue out for a car that is this low.
  10. My street car is set-up close to these specs so I know exactly how it handles as opposed to other 240s (and it handles very well, thank-you Mr. Coffey). Since we now have a "club" race car I use that for most of my autocross and time trial runs instead. We don't have enough information on either of these cars to make the next steps to improve the handling since we don't really know what to change. Our plan is to start from scratch and go back through the set-up steps and verify we have everything were we want it and then it's time to put our butts in the seat. Get the car finished and then run it and record the data. The data will tell you what to do next. I'm looking forward for the season to begin but the forecast is for a mini-blizzard on Thursday ......
  11. Oil, yes. Type 10-20 wt or use ATF. Fill to line on dampner rod (serated black plastic on top of SUs, unscrew,check oil level, add as needed). Too much isn't a crisis as it will overflow and be ingested.
  12. With no disrespect intented, I disagree with 2 out of the 3 suggestions re: car set-up for BSP recently posted. The one I totally agree with is the course walking and attitude. Nothing beats seat time unless you're doing it wrong. As to the link over to Hybridz, it's like walking into a conversation with a few PhDs if you aren't up to speed yet. The question was car set-ups not theory. For let's start from the beginning: 1) www.autocross.com (advise, clubs, rules, car set-ups, links, etc.) 2) Secrets of Solo Racing by Henry Watts - very good book on the topic 3) Evolution driving school - from basic to nationals prep 4) car set-up as per John Coffey: Camber - 3 degrees neg front and 2.5 neg rear Caster - 6-8 in front (you can decrease camber if you have more caster) Toe - 1/4 to 3/8 out in front and 1/16 to 1/8 in in the rear Ride Height - 4.5 to 5 inches at the rocker Springs - 225 to 250 front and 275 to 200 rear Sway bars - 1-ich front and 5/8 rear Offset bushing - yes Poly - yes Roll bar/cage - yes Tranny - "b" 4-speed Diff - 3:54 w/Quaiffe LSD Belts - 5-point Seat- the best you can afford So get your car sorted out, then get it aligned, then corner balanced and then re-aligned. Now try not to make more than one change until you figure out what that did. Buy a tire pyrometer, pressure guage and a log book. Take a lot of notes and keep track of what you do and how the car handled. Good Luck and remember seat time, seat time, seat time........I go AXing in rental cars when I'm away on a business trip. It's a hoot.
  13. Maybe is the answer re: is the adjuster's statement and approach okay? You need to do a complete assessment/estimate of all the parts needed to be replaced separate from their's. How else will you know if the price they say is what they'll pay will in fact cover the real costs. Hint: if they can't get the parts list and/or prices right, then figure they will low ball the bodyshop time too. Take out a piece of paper and make a list then go to MSA, VB, etc. and put prices next to each. Compare to their list. Don't agree to anything until you've had a day or too to think/research it through.
  14. I have a copy of John C's AX set-up somewhere in my files. There's several suspension suggestions (camber, caster, toe-in, etc.) and the like. It's a full page and I don't have a scanner here. If you PM me I will fax the info to you. Perhaps you can scan and post it later.
  15. I have one from an 82 turbo. PM me if interested.
  16. I must have stripped at least a half dozen 240s in the past 12 months and if memory serves me right, they all had bolts going up with the captive nut on top. The other way would make removal harder. These bolts are on my list of the 6 most likely to break under pressure (fender along hood sides, corners, valance to corners, signal light case to lens cover, water pump, gas tank strap "j" bolt). A Z that had been worked on could have new captive clips (OEM or aftermarket) put on in any direction (up or down). And is that a wheel of a jack in the lower left side of the picture or are my eyes getting worse?
  17. My accident took place in early October but we didn't settle the case until the 29th of December knowing of their urge to do before the 1st of January. I didn't bring this up in my earlier post as your accident happened in the early part of the year. Companies close out their books year end and like to move things along to do so. Quarterly reports of unsettled cases get noticed, so let this one simmer a bit. Make copies of the parts you put in your car and show what MSA, VB, the Zbarn and others sell them for whether new or used. And don't take them up on the offer to have the car repaired in "their" shop. As to showing them all the money you've spent on your Z, that can come back to bite you. I put together a list and my wife saw it. It was a bit frosty around the house for awhile. Good thing I hadn't put the bill from Rebello's in the pile yet. Forget global warming.......
  18. gnosez

    gnose 240Z

    finished car after just under 7 months from the day I got it. Mr K's Choice award winner '03 ZCCA convention
  19. gnosez

    rotiss

    after sandblasting, body work, and priming
  20. gnosez

    new Z 2

    a little over 11 hours after getting it home
  21. gnosez

    new Z

    starting over with another 240
  22. gnosez

    rear end

    crash pic - the worst of the damage
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