gnosez

Alas, poor Yorick, he knows not well. Okay first, one would remove the coil wire to ensure that upon restarting the engine after a long-ish period of time you would want the oil to get up into the engine prior to it actually firing. Second, yes, all winter starts would be cold ones, hence my repeating it so if he decided to fire it up every week/month/etc. he would remember to remove coil wire first before starting it up. Third, tire pressure. An additional 15-20 lbs of air will aid in keeping at least 30 lbs after say 6 months. Putting the car on block/jacks lets the suspension sag under its' own weigh. And last, not putting battaries directly on concrete comes from the manufacture's guidelines. If is does or doesn't help, it sure doesn't hurt. Today's outside temps: 24-day/18-night Do whatever you want with your Z. I plan on keeping mine.

Do not run the car. Unless you want moisture to form in the exhaust system and start to rust it away. Plus each and every time you start it up it'll be a cold start. Now add to that the fact that any blow-by past the rings will begin a chemical reaction in the oil that makes it acidic. Just walk away from the car til you're ready to drive it again. I store my Z for 4 to 6 months at a time. With the car-jacket it comes out of the bag looking as clean and dry as it went in. The rotors have no rust on them.

1) run car w/stablizer 2) change oil/filter 3) check all fluids/top off/add anti-freeze if needed 4) put 45 lbs of air in tires 5) battary out and stored in cool, dry place (not directly on concrete floor) 6) disconnect coil wire 7) cover and protect from rodents 8) make a note to yourself re: coil wire, air pressure, key location Start up w/coil wire off and wait for oil pressure to increase before connecting Change oil and filter after running for a while. Buy a "car-jacket" for next year's storage.

Look to be anything but a Z mat. Maybe a roadster, etc....

Well, I was going to point downward and then make a crooked finger, but I figured they would have thought that I was asking for some viagra. I ended up making a small sign during a gas/pit stop and using that the next time. I could have taken the boxster (okay after 125 I would have been looking at his exhaust pipe).....

If not Nissan factory restorations then why not "Nissan sponsored restorations"? Everything I've seen so far points to the vehicles being done with the complete knowledge and support of Nissan. Are they factory cars? Not in my opinion. Had they be shipped back to Japan for the restoration work then I could see a reason to call them "factory" restorations. The restoration resulted in vehicles that were better then originally produced with a level of detail and some upgrades not provided in the early '70s.

Based on the number of views this topic has generated (over 1,600) I'd say there a strong case for a serious presentation of the 240Z restoration effort. I believe a few minutes of thought should go into how this might get to the marketplace and in what form. Given the number of people who buy Z related objects, books, t-shirts, mugs, etc. there is at the least a limited batch (less than 5,000 copies), niche publishing house book in all this. If not that, a long article for C&D, R&T, etc. The problem I see with this approach is that the subject calls out for detail and magazines don't do detail. Perhaps an early installment piece could be floated to any number of car magazines. As a history teacher turned to the dark side (civil/criminal inspector), I know many of the frustrations and dead-ends that a trip like this will take you on. There will be different understandings of what occured and when, with who and who did what to whom. There will be gaps and selective memory events. More than one person will claim to have done something. Archive articles and materials will point to conflicts and confusion instead of answers. I say this in support of your collective efforts and because I sense that the Z community is beginning to take notice. So while there are but a few people posting there could be well over 2,000 views before the month of January ends. And if you find getting information from a few years ago hard, imagine trying to get it from people extremely reluctant to do so (can you say, prison time?) or better yet, try getting the facts straight on a event that happened 500 years ago. I look forward to each new added piece of the puzzle. As the Brit's would say, 'it's early days yet"....

I think I still have one of them. I'll check tomorrow and post the results. It was the lack of rear sway bar that made me decide not to go that route. I now know I could have done the sway bar differently. Oh, well.

Eric - I'm over on the right coast, so shipping becomes a factor, but I wanted to say that the price you were quoted ($600-700./1-yr warranty) is what I pay to have a tranny professionally gone through. The guy I use is an ex-circle track driver and he does the work on our club race car too. The good news is that all the parts are still available. A reasonable price for a used junkyard tranny is in the $150-250 range, plus your rebuild costs. I lost 5th gear on a 1000 trip and did over 500 miles in 4th, with vettes and porsches wanting to play as I drove home. I couldn't remember the universal hand-sign for "bad tranny".

You might want to consider getting a 24"F" battary that has the positive post away and out from under the body. You will need different cables but in the long run I believe it's the right way to go. Just my $.02 (adjusted for inflation) worth..

I don't know of any other way to do it, since you need to remove the hinges from the body first. That would mean the hood has to come with it. Make sure to mark the location of the hinges (where they attach to both the body and the hood) to make alignment easier during re-assembly.

I had the same issue right after I installed the new springs and shocks. My 240 must have come up at least 2 inches instead of lowering my Z by the 2 inches the stated would happen. I think normal, stock height, measured at the rocker lip would be in the 7-9 inch range. I finally went to coil-overs to control the "exact" ride height I wanted.

I have to say that I looked at one of the pics and wondered where you got a scale model vacuum cleaner to look that realistic and then realized it was a "real" restored 240! Anyway, my Dad does quite a bit of model building and he buys stuff from a store here in Meuthan, MA that sells engine detail and wheel kits. They include wires, braided hose, plugs, etc. I will check with him tomorrow and post the info on the shop. I believe they have a website. Nice work.

You can take all the vent and overfill hoses down to the local NAPA store and if they're the friendly type, you can go through their hose supply and find the right hose that matches the bends in the more expensive ones ($90. for the long one!) The straight sections can be any good all-purpose fuel/oil line connected by plastic hose barbs. The gromments for the vent lines can be found at www.zzxdatsun.com look under rubber parts.

I too am interested in where all this is going as I have proposed to SportZ magazine that they do a small "Where are they now" section with follow-ups to be published as info is recieved. For example, where are the 50 240Z pace cars?, how many g-noses made it to North America?, How many (insert for Black Pearl, 25th, etc.)? How many Z31 showroom racers were built and by whom? etc., etc., etc. I'm sure others can come up with a longer wish list. A book would be great. A series of magazine articles would be nice too. As to why none of the "F" restored 240s were on the list for Bob Sharps, I would have to say that by this time, Bob was not longer interested to get involved. I had heard that there were major problems with the engines that Nissan had rebuilt at their Texas facility and they had to be redone after deliver to the shops in CA. If true this and other issues along with a larger than expected list of "sub"-contractors pushed the cost up higher than budgeted. I'm sure available parts had some say in the number of "restored" cars that could be produced too.

California plates I think, so try www.zcca.org then go to the club indicator. Look at the members' ride sections of the CA clubs. If no luck there try and see if anyone posted a pic of this car at any of the CA shows (hybrid, zcca, msa, etc.) here, zhome, zdriver, zcar, etc. good luck. Striking color!

Well, all that's real good to hear. If you have to replace the floor pans, remember to bolt the tranny mount in place before you weld them in. This will keep the tunnel from moving inward.......

Isn't there some sort of Formosa termite problem going down in Nor'leans? Seems to me they mutated and started eating metal. Those rockers and floor pans are toast and I suspect (I'd be willing to bet $20.00) that there's more to be found in the rear wheel well area, in front of the door hinges, lower portion of the fenders below the "Datsun" emblem, the rear deck lid, the lower portion of the hatch, below the battary tray, and most likely in the frame rails before and after the T/C rod location. Do whatever you want with this Z, but do yourself a big favor and get a complete understanding of all the rust and the costs associated with removing/replacing/restoring it before spending another dime on this car. Any car can be saved, but only you can determine how much money is enough.....I may not be able to see into the future but I believe a huge welding bill is waiting out on the horizon for you.

check with Mike McGinnis at www.zzxdatsun.com for rear guard rubber

I built one last year using MSA's 2-piece kit for my '72. You can see it at our club website (www.zccne.org - scroll in the member's section) or at my website (www.baddogparts.com) where there are some photos of the restoration and a short vid of the car out on the track (vid 2). I didn't go the fender flare route but instead rolled out and formed a small flare in the rear. The 245X45X16 just fit because I have 2.25 degrees of negative camber that allow upward wheel travel at an angle. The car sits at 6 inches (front rocker and 6.5 inches (rear rocker) with about 4 inches at the crossmember and 3.5 at the oil pan. I think a lowered gnose has more appeal but each to his own...

I had a problem with my set-up (pertonix) until I removed my resistor. Take it out. If you have any doubts leave it connected and start you car up. It will break up as you apply more throttle. I've had no problmes with the pertonix unit in over 3 yrs and 2 different Zs. TonyD says he has yet to hear of any issues related to life cycle. they seem to work for many miles and many years. I have a 40,000 type coil (don't need more than that) and an MSD box (6A) The set-up works very well.

They make several different diameter sizes....

used the Eastwood "loom tape" during my ground-up restoration. It seems to be holding up fine after 10,000 miles and about 18 months.

try coolflex hoses instead....expensive but w/a 10-15 yr warranty

mine is pretty simple to understand after I added an aftermarket gnose to a restored 240Z. License tag reads that too. I do have people in our local club calling me "poppa", as in poppa-gnoze. My earlier screen name was 3L240z but I'm up to the 3.2L version now...