gnosez

In the middle of a ground-up restoration I decided to do the right thing and take the wiper motor to a professional. The shop replaced the brushes, re did some if the winding and some of the wiring. I'd have to dig through a pile of bills but I want to say it cost me about $50. (US) to do this. I reused the orignial plastic bag and got new plastic rivits to close it up. For the felt grease pads at the pivot points, I used those rings the sell for battary posts (usually red and black). I then coated the rings with grease. Are the wipers better? Yes. Are they great/fast? No.

Well, for what it's worth I had my motor rebuilt and it about 25-40% faster now then before. I also greased all pivot points too. I find that Rain-X causes the wiper blades to drag which puts more of a load on the wiper motor.

Since the SeriesI had a different wheel style (no holes in the 3 arms) and they only made it for the first year, yes it will be more difficult but far from impossible. A good one should be in the $50-100 range and the horns I saw new on someone's part website not too long ago. (zparts.com?? maybe). I think MSA sells them too.

Which ones do you need? The internal/external ones or both? I have them used. Let me know via post or private message...

Been over at zcar for some time but have grown tired of the lack of civility, decorum, etc. SilverBullet highly recommended this site and I've been on for a short while mostly reading old posts and learning. If a little knowledge is dangerous then I'm a little dangerous....

I too have a Rebello engine w/triples and I've had the MSA header gasket (cardboard like material) on my Z for 2 yrs (10,000 very hard miles) with no problems. Getting the intake and exhaust manifolds to line up correctly was a bear and required multiple attempts with the grinder to get the header right. The intake was fine, it was the coated MSA header that was off. I was pretty pissed after I completed this but it has never caused a problem since.

It seems that every electrical problem with my Z has been resolved by either putting in a better grounding strap or tightening the original one. I would suggest you locate every last one of your grounding locations and make sure it ready is a good ground (connection is tight, nut/bolt not rusty, wires in good shape) then tighten. Add a 8 gauge strap from the engine to the frame and you should be fine. Remember that there are several grounding locations on the frame (fuel pump- electric if you have one, lights, wiring harness along passenger side, lights, horns, etc) and may in the interior (the center console has at least one major one). I don't know what you do for a living but whatever it is you can't afford to pay some one to do this (I worked for over 40 hrs finding 2 bad connections in the dash. At $50/hr that'd be $2,000. just to fix a grounding issue). Get a test light and voltmeter and practice getting flexible since you'll be twisting yourself into small places under the dash, etc. A small foam pad is good for your knees. Good Luck......be there and done that.

Charlie Osbourne sells the best pans you can get. He has 2 versions, one that is OEM metal thickness and the more expensive on which is thicker. I sell seat brackets if you need them thru Charlie or at my website: www.baddogparts.com look under "Products"

If you want to see (and hear) a gnose (aftermarket) on the track go to: www.baddogparts.com and scroll down the right side. Headlight covers get installed this winter, with Wilwoods up front.

nice and solid looking mounts! For our club race car we took a very slightly used diff mount and welded 1/4-inch bar stock that connects the 2 plates. Not a street ride unless you like that sort of thing or as pretty as your's or Dave's (AZ Z car) but it works real well. Look forward to seeing the finished product.......

I too had the gnose hots and after I crashed my last 240 I built a gnose one. The MSA nose is now better in fit and finish than it was 2 yrs ago. The installation is doable in several hours (8+) but you will need to fab a way to connect it to the car. It uses the stock lights (head and signal) but you need special hinges. I had them made and now sell them on my website. I bought the flares but decided not to use them. I had my rear fenders flared by rolling them and adding some bondo. Pics on my car on the website and at www.zccne.org (go to members' section). Email and I can provide more info if you'd like. There's a video with sound on my website of the car at the track last year.