gnosez
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Everything posted by gnosez
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Exciting news: I just got a 240Z race car!
gnosez replied to MichaelsVintage's topic in Open Discussions
Sorry to say, I'm can't make NJ but with some luck might be at The Glen in October. Did the Schenley Park race for the first time and is was the stupidest fun thing I've done in years. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward my cell number to you. -
Exciting news: I just got a 240Z race car!
gnosez replied to MichaelsVintage's topic in Open Discussions
Mike - I've seen you race at several VRG events but now we'll be in the same run group it seems. I would be happy to share what knowledge I have of the early Zs and setting them up to race.
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I took the back rear flat edge and cut the inner portion every half inch then rolled out the flat portion to form a lip. Some FG on the inside and a bit on the edge was all that was needed to complete the mild flare without making a radical change to the exterior appearance. Prior to doing so I took the spring off and found that running 2.25 inch negative camber allowed the wider wheels/tires to tuck up nicely.
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245/35/16 with a light lip in the rear. GC coilovers sitting at 5.75 inches at the front rocker
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So the whale tail's down force which many believe to be the best they had back then wasn't enough to hold that Electromotive ZX on the road. There's another 4-6 inches added in an upright position.
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What spark plugs are you using and is your motor set up for pump gas?
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They also hide the fire hydrants. Haven't done a compression calculation as to how much force would a hay bale take before break through of a 2300 lb car at speed.
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Haven't looked at this from the viewpoint of getting either a Subie LSD R180 or a Datsun R180 in the gear ratio I want (3:90) and then installing a Quaife the costs comes out to be nearly identical ($2,500.). The next step is CV flanges (both ends) and CVs themselves which could mean removing the stub axle and all that work. If your current spare R180 is in anything but a 3:70, 4:11, 4:38 or 4:44 it's not worth that much and you can always find an end flange at a later date.
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A very nice car (GT2?) with an even better driver. Group 7 Thompson Cup entry (a Group 10 car with SVRA due to the brakes and aero). I was close in times on Friday (1:25 vs 1:27) on a set of old tires and then on the last race Saturday he turned a 1:20.470!!
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I was going to ask for a lap time sheet but you likely were reading my mind. Did the Jefferson 500 with VRG back in May and had a ball. First time there and started out doing 1:32s and got it down to a 1:30.0 by Sunday on tires that should have been retired in April. A 1:28 should be in my reach with better tires and after that it's more track time. What classification are the Zs running (ITS, EP)? Thanks for sharing the pics and info. Enjoy yourself. I'm off to do the Schenley Park vintage event this coming weekend.
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Running in the rain (Thompson 2017).... https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/fr/cp0/e15/q65/19400305_10209782514340035_7752850171519444160_o.jpg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=342b4edc0f3505e0e66f4dd259c07e14&oe=59CF175F
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I can see how much a CF version would cost if you're interested.
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The original version made back in the day was very thin and inexpensive, If you hit a butterfly doing 65mph it would crack. I had 4 in one year on my new 1974 260 which I purchased from Bob's dealership in Danbury. The one shown has three layers of quality cloth and extra resin, It had holes (which were clothed over) which you would use to screw it on. Since the racecar is winched on/off the trailer I installed Zeus fittings instead. The lower valance is a one-piece heavy duty FG version of the three-piece metal parts. I suspect that the writing was just included by the person making it.
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I have a BSR mold so I'm not sure what MSA is using. Would it fit a 240? Not sure. Mine does as it's a 72.
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There's nothing custom about it. It's a BSR front airdam. I have a mold in my shop and that's my car at NHMS.
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you mean like this....see pics You might find that the ZX booster is way to big and RockAuto sells reman units for cheap money. I have the Wilwoods in the street 240 and I agree that they are really great brakes. If I wasn't wearing my harness belts I could easily break my nose on the steering wheel. Be nice to have in the race car. In that I have the Toyo SW-12 with Z31 vented rotors and Carbotech pads. The rears are still drums (steel) with Nissan Comp shoes.
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Remove old booster which involves laying upside down while dropping the tool or tools you need in places you can't seem to reach making you crawl out of the car to find them, again. Doing it over a side impact cage bar is 10 times more of a PIA. The 280 booster 4 bolt studs aren't in the same pattern so you will need to drill new holes and I suggest a step drill so you can make the holes one size larger to ease in the alignment of the push rod. Because the booster is wider you might need to trim either the side of the booster or the gas pedal pin mount. Start to finish depends on too many factors but 2-3 hours is doable as is 8. Depending on how you intend to use your Z you could while you're at it strengthen the firewall as it will flex an easy 1/4-3/8 under heavy braking.
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Not too sure if the vac pump will make your braking effort easier but it does help if your engine doesn't produce enough vacuum. This happens in modified engines with big cams. I ran a pump in my street car (3.2L) and in the race car (CR- 13.7:1) before replacing everything with Wilwood pedals and MCs. Much more effort involved, less weight, dial in bias adjustment and fewer parts to go wrong. The pumps are not cheap, they are loud (how loud? You can hear them over the un-muffled race engine)) and take up a fair amount of room.
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Yes, I race a 240 and that is the small oil pan (6 qt) as opposed to the large (8+) pan. Add in filter, lines. Accumsump, cooler and you have 12 to 16 qts. invested. As to the idea, here's the prototype that I used to verify that it works. The version going in the race car will be longer, have a connection point to the body and be lighter in weight. Think auto tranny dip stick with a threaded cap that can be removed via a socket.
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Nooo. Likely to damage the plug and now you're filing it down to 16mm. I have a better all around solution and I'll post it later tonight. It's really for folks like me who change tranny oil 4-6 times a years.
