gnosez
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Everything posted by gnosez
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I like all your ideas and I have seen hundreds of those bats up close and personal. If someone is looking for an early ash tray, I think I have two or three somewhere.
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My all time favorite for a Lemons race car theme - the knights who say NEE-San. Let me know what type of shrubbery I should bring....
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As Mr. Hendrix asked "are you experienced" I know I am. In my experience they don't so much as melt but rather are consumed (read eaten) by an angry beast looking for fuel. Metal can serve as a fuel for just a limited amount of time before really bad things happen. I have twin pumps that are plumbed to separate duckbill pickups in the left and right corners of the fuel cell which in turn connect to the filter and then to the engine bay (second filter). If one pump fails, the other will get me through unless I lose it on a very banked NASCAR track (an unlikely event). Holley makes a flat screen pillow pickup that covers most of the bottom of a cell. When it's time to replace the foam/bladder I might go in that direction.
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I have run a concentric aluminum bushing and drilled a hole for a zerk fitting on the race car for four years. I really like the look of those bushings.
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I have the beginning of a plan and I would need someone that speaks "local". This gentleman is a true hoarder and the odds of breaking the bonds of his ownership are against us. More later....
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I have build three R180s in the last year, two for my car and one for a friend. Once you have a diff (R180 or 200) in the ratio that works for your set-up go buy a Quaife or an OBX, new bearings and seals. The last two items you're going to buy anyway with whatever diff you get unless it was recently rebuilt. Might I suggest that since you are new to all this that you spend time reading and thinking about what you want your Z to be when it is done (they are actually never done but assume they are for now) and then decide how you are going to pay for all this.
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I know of a gentleman who has over 50 Zs just sitting outside rotting away. There are 3 large building stuffed with parts and a dozen or so running cars parked on asphalt. I asked if he had any ZX 5-spds - "nope". I counted 12 cars with them. How about gas tanks? "nope". There was a pile over 20 feet high behind one of the buildings. How about side marker lights? "nope". We were standing next to a 5-gal bucket filled with them. One of the cars was a ZXR. A small tree was growing out of the hatch. No doubt all of this treasure will be lost to the Z community.
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truth...
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my pile of parts is waiting for the day I retire when there will be time to take apart, clean, fix and organize it all
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I have taken apart 7 or so parts cars, some so rusty that they crumbled into pieces as I wrenched on them. Add buying other folks left over stuff with a job that takes me up and down the east coast and beyond (think of all those junkyards).... I did a riff at one of the ZCONs (a place you go to get your Z fix) along the lines of: You know you're a Z nut when you start storing parts under the bed and your wife thinks that smell is coming from you. You start out fixing some small rust spot and 3 hours later your car has been stripped to the shell, the engine is out and you're calling Rebello. You can tell the year of a Z by the VIN without looking it up, list which diff came in which Z from 1970 to 1996 and can match each paint job to its' code number. When you need a part you buy more than one.
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Then there's my house...
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You call that hoarding?
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I have the following new parts for sale. Prices include shipping to the lower 48 States. Email works better as I don't always have access to the website during the day. john@baddogparts.com 1) Performance 65mm TB with tube and K&N filter (MSA 11-3021 & 11-2921 $490) asking $400. 2) 280Z rebuilt MAF (Fuel Injection Corp 415001 $265) asking $215 3) 1972-83 fan clutch (MSA 16-7031 $93) asking $75 4) EBC front pads (V6 Toyo DP4807R $145) asking $110
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Don't have the 79-80 version. Sorry.
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I will look tomorrow when I am back home and post the outcome of said search....
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I might have them but need a picture to use to verify
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3D printer material
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As a sometime rallye navigator in any number of British sport cars I can attest to the usefulness of this product. For those who sail it like hiking out...
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A.K.A. Bob Sharp.... You can see folks watching/looking at Paul.
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Question on Installing Original Datsun Competition Springs
gnosez replied to JLPurcell's topic in Open Discussions
I got a complete set of 240 struts that I want to believe were shorter but had not been cut and welded, from a now retired racer along with a pile of other parts. Two of the shocks are stuck in the tubes and I had put them aside as I had no immediate need for them. Now I'm interested enough to take another look at them. -
Question on Installing Original Datsun Competition Springs
gnosez replied to JLPurcell's topic in Open Discussions
I might have a set (F/R) of the comp struts. If you can post the measurements I will check them when I get back home. -
If you have removed the old bushing and take out the metal by mistake you can always put a shim in. That bar is not trash. Remember that the 240 and 280 bars fit differently (in front or between) the diff/suspension bracket support legs. That is enough room to make the holes line up or in your case not line up. I ended up making a note to myself where the bar goes (in front or behind) and have marked the bars accordingly, as I swap out diffs for different tracks (R180 - 4:11, 4:38, 190 - 4:44, 200 - 3:90). It would be nice if I had all the ratios in one type of diff.
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I work out with a round plate weight that I hold out in front of me at the same position (elbows bent) and turn it the same way one uses the steering wheel. While not as bad as spending time in a kart, a 3 day vintage event with 3-4 sessions a day on race slicks and my shoulders are burning. I've seen a set-up that uses a rope and you can add/subtract the weight used. Nice but I can sit and watch TV with just a plate. You can start with an steering wheel.
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The R180 bar mounts in the opposite direction from the R200 (the way the bar bends) so the alignment would be off whether you drill out the diff bolt holes. A quick look at FSM version for the 240 and 280 diff and rear suspension diagram would show how they line up differently. Sorry you had to spend the extra and I'm sure frustrating time only to find it wasn't anything you did wrong.
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Once the weather improves enough for our local Zs and ZXs to come out of winter hibernation the plan is to get the measurements completed for the 280ZX and Z31 300ZX rails.
