gnosez
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Everything posted by gnosez
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The best way but not one available to everyone is to put the car on scales, the ones used to corner balance the car and tighten until you see a difference in weight shifting from one side to the other. One starts corner balancing with the sway bars disconnected,
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Some of that is Wilwood comp pads and the other and primary source is the left LCA (just) touching the rotor under heavy braking. I moved the LCA pivot points to reduce bumpsteer so take a look again and see how little I need to saw the steering wheel back and forth. LCA has had a visit with the grinder (again) but it can't be tested until I get to The Glen next week.
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SCCA-NER/HRG at Thompson (all comers vintage race). Chasing a very nice 280Z part3thompson.MP4
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I have a FG hood from the early 70s that has the same workmanship. I need to go look at more closely after seeing this pictures.
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I agree with the blue (as opposed) to the red lock-tite. Belmetric is my go-to place but then they're located 15 minutes from my house. Great people.
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I have used the jack and wrench/vise grip trick a few times but mostly on the fill plug for the tranny. I once had the car start to lift off the jack stands the plug was so tight. Heat was the solution.
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A 1 inch piece of flat stock about 10 inches long with a 1/2 inch bar stock piece welded to the end. The I/2 piece was measured to allow it to just fit between the mustache bar and the diff for a normal cover. You can also just weld the short piece of 1/2 bar stock to 10 inches of 1/2 stock. The extra capacity cover has a side filler and is somewhat easier to get at with a 1/2 inch extension.
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I'm not a fan of sending dirty air from the engine back into the engine so consider a knockout catch can with a drain valve.
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https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=%2fCyyKzce&id=D6DF55F4D0DE0A24FF9C5ADF54D5414B597764CE&thid=OIP._CyyKzcev0tcEueNbDozmQHaE7&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.conceptcarz.com%2fimages%2fDatsun%2f70-Datsun-240Z_DV_10-WG_06.jpg&exph=681&expw=1024&q=bob+sharp+racing+images&simid=607987100539618427&ck=B4108861B6E062FA12492BE08D672707&selectedIndex=96&ajaxhist=0 Same car with different flares and wheels?
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https://www.billstoler.com/#/gallery/2019-watkins-glen-vrg-event/wg2019-8881-ca247/ This is John Willey's very clean and well prepared 280Z. I ran against him and he is a very good driver.
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Whether it's at the track, prepping for the next race or at the end of the year, there's always at least one nut or bolt that was loose that would have made for a very bad day. The number of wire-tied, double nutted and new nuts and bolts increases every year. Every bolt/nut has a paint mark to verify it was torqued and a similar reference mark to show if it moved. The plug wires are individually zip tied to the distributor cap and the dipstick has a spring to keep it in place. Everyone of these things came loose at one point. Peace of mind.....
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I found a better picture. We bolted it in and backed up the metal inside the cowl area. On a separate note, once we added the bracing similar to ones used in the GTU car we had to come up with a way for the wiper arm to work since it's path was blocked by the tube connecting the driver's side strut tower and the upright tube in from of the shifter which ties into the cross=member under the dash. That side is higher to allow clearance for the carbs. We cut the lower wiper arm and fabbed an upside down "U" which was bolted in. It's hard to get a good picture but i think you're get the idea.
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Here's the one we have used for several years on the race car. This winter we expanded our bracing but will include the tower-to-tower piece.
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Just click on my name and it should take you to me. There's a private message button. Either day is fine.
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PM me for my phone number
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Sometimes you can remove the strut from the shock (as opposed to the other way around) using a hat or large washer, a 2x4, 2 clamps and a hammer.
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I'd like to mention that in addition to the race car not having a wedge bolt neither does my street car which has had the Arizona Z Car RCAs installed since 2006 which has not been wire tied or pinned. Freedom of movement is key in suspension parts. Remove the lock pin and rotate the strut and RCA. Put in the pin back in and try again. But hey, if you feel more safe with it there fine.
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There is no reason to put the locking pin back in. In fact a threaded rod works just fine instead of a spindle pin. I have the T3 RC arms in my race car which has over 180 track days. The threaded rod that came with the RCA is still working fine and I see no reason that a similar rod couldn't be used in a set of stock arms.
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But why is it there?
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I have never opened a truck 4 or 5 spd. This one has a different fork, gear and has a spring to push the syncro into place.
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So, this is a first for me. Has anyone else seen on of these?
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The indent also adds strength to the piece.
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Thanks. I was hoping it was an analog box and I could trade you for a new digital one I have.
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Is it an analog or digital MSD box (6AL)?
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I have one but need to verify if it is in working condition....
