gnosez

Got the dash extension in, the BSR GTU air scoop mounted and some gold insulation film installed on the header side of the engine bay and tunnel.

Still waiting on the replacement engine from Dave sorry to say. Been 4 months. Race car sitting in my garage. Will post pics of the upgrades in a few days. But have added: a new fire bottle, covered the tool box openings with a lighter cover, redid the fuel line plumbing and added a new filter, laid in some gold film heat insulation, got new rotors (had to machine spacers for the bolt holes), new race pads, painted the calipers, got the original BSR front airdam refreshed, and having a FG bumper painted chrome. Rebuilt an R180 with 4:38 gears and a Quaife, all new bearings at the corners, adjustable pedals, and a side extension of the dash to include a dual EGT, two O2 sensor gauges, a tranny oil temp and an electronic fuel pressure gauge. Plus the driver air vent fabricated for the 1975 BSR GTU car and the white shift knob from that car as well.

This is the most truthful car ad I have ever seen. Whether that was intentional is unknown.

Thanks. I am concerned with not enough length using the 280s with an R180 diff. One side seems to be stretched to it's limit.

Has anyone measured the extended and compressed lengths of both the 240 and 280 half-shafts (left and right sides)?

For that kind of money I would want new door panels and a better job of putting the vinyl in around the rear strut towers. With that said, I'd offer $25k.

Good point Jon. A non-sanctioned track day car can use any power plant you have the desire to install. What someone would be buying is a nearly ready made, hours of refining, sorted out car that all just needs an engine to put a smile on a person's face. As to rpm, the race engines can do 8500 but there is no reason to go that high since they hit peak output of both torque and HP around 6500-7000 rpm (we see 300/275 with the L28 and 365/300 with the 3.2L)

Rod bolts likely. I have an E31 head on the L24 and our L28. The 3.2L has an N42.If I added up the cost of all the work done on these three heads I could buy a very nice used car or say a 2014 Honda Fit.

I talked with WW2 last night and he threw a rod, so the block is gone. Of course you can use what's left over but it all depends on your budget and your desire. At the SVRA Watkins Glen event in September and with VRG a few weeks later at the same track, I lost the back-up engine. I have blown 2 others, a BSR engine and a Jim Cook Racing supercharged L28 so I do know the pain and heart break. I have also raced the same car a few days later with a spare nearly stock engine and had to get off the track after a few laps because my mind would wonder at the slower speeds and responsiveness. 71 - I would bet that after a ride in a 240 powered by a 300+ HP L series race engine you would never, ever want to go back. I know I can't.

I likely have them and if you cover shipping they are yours

John, if that's the case, then either the R180s I have opened up never had them or they got tossed before I got to them.

Thanks! It's a very thin metal piece so I doubt it would be used as a spacer of some sort and I forgot to add that it had "UP" stamped on it just like the Perrin Performance one that sells for $23 plus shipping. I'll have a few metal ones for sale soon at a lower price and will get a sheet made for the R200 diff.

After taking apart perhaps more than 3 dozen diffs (R180 and 200s), I found this plate. Has anyone else seen one of and if so has anyone found one in an R200. I assume it acts to keep gear oil from directly exiting the breather tube as a liquid (as opposed to a vapor). Since the one I found has a rust hole, I am having a sheet of them made up via water jetting.

I knew it ! Size does matter.

If you want an OEM ride experience then just install poly rack bushings and go rubber every where else. I have gone the whole poly route with coil-overs, stiffer springs, hard mount TC rods, wide tires and HTS shocks set just below the race track setting more than 13 yrs ago and would never go back. But that's my Z and you should do what you want for yours. If you ever sell your Z the next owner can always decide to change them out or not.

Got the Quaife installed into the R180 diff (4:38) and 4.5L fire bottle in place.

Put new thrust bearing and washers in the front coil-over struts and re-installed the struts with new hardware. Wire brushed the front S12W calipers and painted them. Modified a hood release cable to turn off the Electrical switch while strapped in. Two trips to the hardware store. Greased the half shafts, screwed around with the gun and threw the cheap grease gun out.

Key was easier to reach on a running start.

But the question is why does that matter if it's on the left side of the steering wheel?

Ever wonder why one of the European car makers has the ignition on the left side of the steering wheel? Le Mons starts.

Blue - I have some 40 over pistons sitting on a shelf and can take a picture and measure them for you tomorrow.

Not to be too much of a jerk, but when I looked at the title of the thread my first thought was - and that's a bad thing? Carbs need to be tuned, linkages checked and timing set. Then get a new set of plugs.

The original windshield would have been made differently that a replacement you'd get today. the glass today is softer to allow for more flex, not because a Z needs it but because really large windscreens do on SUVs, etc. That softness has a negative effect since the elements and sand can easily pit and mark a windshield in just a few months.

A 240 needs a pedal box from a 240. I have upgraded my clutch pedal (beefier hinge) using one from a 280.

I was supposed to clear the snow off the roof but after hearing the news about Mr. K's passing, the only thing to do was to get back to work on the Z. A dual EGT (#2 & #5 header pipes), a fuel pressure, tranny temp and two O2 sensors gauges. All to better know when to hit the kill switch before the whole engine is toast.