gnosez

We look forward to seeing your project car next year....

Be interested in your thoughts on ride-ability after a few thousand miles. I replaced almost all my poly but went in the other direction, heim joints including the TC rods, LCA, RCA, and outer tie rods.

Getting paid first is rule number one. Hiring a well known firm that will spend time talking with you is number two. All the rest is like everything else in life - the more you prepare the better the outcome (taking pictures before the vehicle is loaded, insurance, car prep,etc.) are easy after 1 and 2 are done.

current front nose Highland Design Studio > Z Convention > 2013 ZCCA Convention > Thursday Track and Lobster > MotorSports > Morning Session Four

I have a complete FG center valance and corner valance one piece unit which you could add a period correct spoiler to if you want. Is your current front end urethane? If yes, then that's why it's sagging. It needs an inner back brace to support it at speed. Early Zs lift after 60-70mph. leave the rear spoiler while keeping the front stock will only make it lift more. From your photo it seems you may not have one. Have you thought about either making changes to your trailer ramp (a simple addition of a 2x8 board under each wheel) or attaching your front clip with zues fasteners? As to the brake ducts, unless you are running more than 40-60 minutes, a good set of pads won't overheat. Unless you use them too much.

Get a Quaife instead and swap into any diff ratio you want to run....

Rubbing using what size tires? Assuming that you don't have coil-overs but wondering why you would cut the wheel wells instead.

11/22/13 ......and it looks like a bad BMW coupe.....

Okay, trusting your octane rating to a can of boost bought at say Autozone is not something I would be doing. But don't take my word for it, ask Dave Rebello. You want to increase the rating by 2-5 not 0.2 - 0.5 and you need lead to do that. Without the lead all you get is a bottle of 99+% toluene. My current 3.2L needs 98 octane to meet the requirements of the 12.2:1 CR I have in the my street 240Z. I run straight 110, a mix of 110 & 93 or 93 and 2.5 oz/gal of Octane Supreme ($24/32oz). The math breakdown for a full tank would be close to the whole 32oz can plus the 93 octane gas. Since my mileage varies with the amount of pressure I apply via my right foot from a high of 20 to a low of 8 let's assume I get an average of some 220+ miles per tank. The dyno says 287 rwhp@ 6500rpm. How much is too much CR? BSR ran some engines at 15:1 but they had a very, very short bottom end life - a weekend of racing.

Voted... Where in Iowa?

There are only two days that count re: rain. Tuesday - car show and Thursday - NHMS track day/seafood dinner. Monday -0% Tuesday - 20% Wednesday - 30% Thursday - 30%

We don't need no stickin' name tags! Actually, you get a lanyard and a name tag once you have completed registration.

I'd say it has a lot more to do with road conditions, driving styles and even if the wheel bearings were left loose for some time. My sadly wrecked 240Z had over 425,000 hard miles and those spindles and hubs are on my current 240.

So our 300 hp L28 with the 44mm carbs, pistons and other nice bits from the original BSR 240 running at 13:1 CR on 110 fuel ran hot from day one. The 240 did real well at the VRG event last year taking 1st, 2nd (overheating on the last lap), and DNF (first lap overheated). We changed out radiators, hoses, timing, a new head gasket, reconfigured the cooling system, replaced the BSR E31 head, etc. Little bubbles became much bigger bubbles once the throttle was blipped. Current thought is a small cylinder wall crack. Since the only thing that didn't get changed was the block and we started to get bubbles at idle and then big bubbles at WOT. We figured cracked block. Out came the engine and all the usable stuff (8-gal custom oil pan, diesel water pump and custom front cover, a real BSR valve cover, the huey tranny oil cooler

Floors only, no frame rails. No mention of metal thickness.

They contacted me months ago and I was not allowed to mention anything until now and was not told much about the project so I am not sure what FG body they plan on using.

As mentioned a 280

Seems that Stacey is building a GTO replica using a 280Z and they asked for a set of our frame rails. Looks like a 600-hp engine could be installed. Here's what I got today from them - Thank you for supporting GearZ TV & Stacey David’s Season VII! Check out the season finale and new Premiere of Episode 13: “Supercars, Hot Rods and Go-Karts”, Premiering Tuesday, July 16, 2013 @ 8:00pm/EST on SPEED Channel featuring Bad Dog Parts: Frame rail supports for the 280 Z car… and don’t forget to set your DVR!! The premiere will also re-air at the following times: Jul 16, 2013 @ 11:00PM/EST Jul 20, 2013 @ 9:00AM/EST Jul 21, 2013 @ 7:30AM/EST

Before the BSR 240Z got painted red, white and blue it was candy apple red without fender flares and wider tires but it still raced in C Production against Vettes, Mustangs and Camaros with V-8s and yes, Bob Sharp won those races. Make sure you're there on Monday night August 5th to witness the world premier of the 21 minute film produced in 1971 but never shown. Met the filmmakers son and learn how this all came about and then listen to Bob talk about racing, Paul Newman and life.

Ten Things Not to Miss – ZCON 2013 1. Bob Sharp and Yoshihiko Matsuo 2. NHMS 1.6 mile track day 3. BSR 280ZXTT up close 4. Lobster, clam chowder, corn on the cob, and strawberry shortcake 5. Car show at Anheuser -Busch brewery 6. Scenic New Hampshire road rallye 7. Boston Duck and Fenway Park tours 8. Never before seen 21-minute film done 42 yrs ago about Bob Sharp 9. Autocrossing at NHMS 10. Texas Chili and Margarita Party (not stinkin’ ice cream)

So who within driving distance of Nashua, NH is coming to ZCON 2013 (August 5-9)?

Z seems to sit lower in the rear. What is the tire diameter?

Thanks Carl. I have had little time to contact or research this issue further. I am tied up on that pesky "red-line" issue in the news. And 26th, it just the sort of thing you should be snorting (See All Red Insects Now). I'm sure you're smart enough to figure it out.

Any Z can enter the Stock class but why you would is a whole other question. Once you move out of stock and yes those wheels are not stock (from the factory not the dealer) all you need to worry about is whether your Z is as clean and perfect as possible. The number of mods moves you from class to class but you can enter a lower mod class and then lose because points are deducted because they aren't stock. Your Z should be entered in Street Mod.