gnosez

Bad Dog Parts has been working on several new parts and before they are offered for sale, we need your help getting the fitment dialed in. For these parts we would ship a prototype to a willing Z owner who would trial fit it on their Z and report back to us any modifications or changes required to ensure they fit correctly. In return we would provide a free set for your efforts. Here is a list of our current prototypes: · 280ZX frame rails (coupe and 2+2) · 280Z frame rails for aftermarket floor pans · 280Z optional rear frame rails (for stock and aftermarket floors – similar in design to our optional 240 rears) Note: Pictures of these parts will be posted once the Design Patent application process has been completed. As our rails are made from 13-gauge steel we recommend folks who want a stock thickness rail to get them from Zeddfindings instead. Ours are made for those you have added more HP, torque or drive their cars hard. In addition to these we also have several other parts close to final production fitment in the next 30-45 days: · 7-gauge frame rail prototypes for S13 and S14 drift cars · 280Z seat brackets · Toyota Tacoma (Standard Cab) frame rails reinforcement pieces If you wish to assist us please send an email to: john@baddogparts.com Let us know the part(s) you can test fit and the year of your Z(s).

I believe I have one. More on Tuesday when I get a chance to get back into the shop.

Oil will find a way. Try PB Blaster

Did you verify that the replacement cable moved freely before installing it? Was it longer than the original? Are there kinks or a sharp angle? I hang cable up and pour oil down the inside for a few days. Usually frees them right up.

Some small observations regarding the 75 and 33 BSR cars. 1) very few sponsors 2) chrome front bumpers 3) the rear flares on the 33 (waiting for some more rubber) 4) how low the 510 sits 5) looks like the passenger side rocker has seen an obstacle

The shop is closed today and I'm off making templates for 280Z seat brackets so I will post a picture of an honest to God OEM, never installed 280ZX frame rail next week.

So I take it from all of your posts that none of you actually own a 280ZX. As to a product you could buy at Home Despot perhaps you should go to our website. We've been making frame rails for over 15 years for 240/260/280Zs along with 240 seat brackets, jack plates and sway bar plates. Besides the ZX rails we have seven more parts in various stages of development including rails for Tacoma standard cabs. Until we have final fitment issues completed and have obtained our Design Patents there will be no pictures available. We have already had three parts copied by another Z parts vendor and we don't intend on that happening again. We tried to make a serious offer of free ZX frame rails (a heck of lot more complex than the straight forward 240-280 rails) in exchange for help getting the fitment right. Perhaps we should have made the offer on another Z related website.

Frame rails....

Well, not quite the reply I was expecting as the interweb seems to provide an instant reply to the question of thickness for those who either remember this stuff or have a chart pinned to the garage wall. That said 13 = 0.072inches or 1.83mm Many of the body parts in our Zs are made from varying thickness and many are very thin. A bit unsettling when you doing 138mph up the hill at Watkins Glen and you remember your car's body overall thickness is no more than 1.5mm. I have fiberglass parts thicker than that. 16 gauge = 0.052/1.29 18 gauge = 0.040/1.02 20 gauge = 0.032/0.81

Bad Dog Parts has gotten our hands on a set of 280 ZX2+2 NLA set of frame rails and we are in the process of making replacement rails that could be put over existing rails or as a complete replacement. A 2 + 2 ZX rail is only a few inches longer than ones for a coupe so we will be able to make coupe rails as well. Production rails will be made from 13 gauge steel while our prototypes will be made of 16 or 18 gauge to allow for easier trimming during rough fitment. If you are interested in helping us we would be happy to provide you with a free set of "production" rails. We ask that you test fit our prototype rails and report back to us any modifications or changes that would allow them to fit correctly. Note that like our 240 and 280 rails the ZX rails are made for owners who have added more HP, drive their cars hard like me, AX or race so if you are looking for a set of rails that are more stock like we always recommend Zeddfindings. Please PM me if interested. Thanks

Notice the duct tape on the wheel weights in the first photo of the #85 race car.

Start of a race at Road Atlanta with cars lined up 2 by 2 following the pace car going about 40mph. This shot is taken as cars drive under the access bridge. The uphill and sharp drop-off with the track falling away and to the right is one of the major pucker factors in the US.

Here's what I found:

Not quite sure why one would need easy access to a set of Solex or Mikunis. Once set they don't have be touched for years. It is a very clean set-up but I'm not liking the routing of the line around the left side just above the header (now fuel entering is being preheated which is great for boilers but not so great for carbs).

Side exhaust routing is a simple way to allow access to the rear control arms, diff, half shafts, etc., without having to remove one or two exhaust pipes. It also keeps heat away from the diff. I'm running the BSR twin rear set-up and modified it to allow removal of a section of exhaust before and after the rear control arms and diff. They are sleeved and held together by springs.

Try the gasket with a film of red RTV on all four surfaces (manifold side, gasket to manifold, gasket side to down pipe and the down pipe surface). Should fill in any gaps. Haven't used an exhaust/intake gasket in over 15 years. That's about 12 times I have installed/removed a header/intake as I've swapped in different engines on both the street and race car.

Starting in 2003 we have gone from stock fronts and rear drums (autocrossing) to S8W to S12W and drums (track days) to S12W and Wilwood rears(vintage racing). RockAuto calipers taken apart and Swan coated. Have run Porterfield front pads and shoes until our various engines started to overrun the brakes (current: L28 - NA making 260rwhp). Moved to Carbotech 3 years ago all the way around. Brake ducts for the past two years. Motul 660 or 600. We would bleed before each race weekend and at the end of each day but not anymore. Upgraded to 280 booster and 15/16 MC along with stainless lines. Gutted stock prop valve and installed inline valve. Removed all this after 3 years and installed Wilwood pedals, bias adjuster and 3/4 front MC- 5/8 rear with equal length front brake lines the winter of 2018/19. Now moving to Wilwood front 4 piston calipers (12 inch dia & 1.25 inch wide rotors). Getting out braked by the SCCA guys running their 240/280s as GT-2s. All this on 15 inch wheels with either Toyo RA1s ( 225/45/15) or Hoosier R7s (225/45/15-front and 275/35/15 rear). Love the Toyos, they are great from the start if used as rain tires until you wear them down or have them shaved to 5/32. Under 5/32 they are like slicks. Very predictable. Hoosiers are a blast especially with the 10-inch rear wheels. In the rain 225 Hoosier wets all the way around, I have a set of Porterfield and Nismo rear shoes available.

I believe I have either one side (upper and lower) serrated or two of one of them. I can check later this week. NOS.

I do have another stand that was used by BSR. It needs some legs added to clear the deeper oil pan and the engine mount capture nuts need to be chased but you get the idea.

Here's what we've been using for the past 10 years, Cheap and durable. Cut-out is for the oil pump and the j hooks are for a ratchet strap.. Engine with the dolly can be lifted up and put into the bed of a pickup (I put two 3x3 blocks of would under the dolly so the wheels don't touch the bed).

Please note that there is a difference between "understand" and "agree". I understand why John and Randy see things but I'm not sure if they are right. It's a race but not a race in that no one wins any money so some modicum of caution is in order especially at the start. That being said, you're out there racing and it's hard not to press an advantage when you see one. That whole incident took place literally in at best two blinks of an eye. I run with VRG that has three race groups (small, medium and big bore) and while I could race in either the medium or the big bore group I elect to run with the V8s, V6s and 930 turbos along with other Zs. I get jumped hard at the start of most races by cars that have slower lap times but are much quicker off the mark at the start of the race. I consider a race start as a Darwinian experiment, one I don't wish to participate in and one in which some of my fellow racers exit before completing a single lap. It takes me a few laps but I manage to get by some of them by hanging all over them in the turns and late braking them on the straights.

The HSR passing rule doesn't go into any detail on when a pass in a corner can be taken (front tires or door to front tire of the passing car as an example) or anywhere else on the track so I'm not sure how they will judge everyone's actions (reactions) and this incident took place at the most dangerous of all points in a race; at the start, when folks are fighting for position. In the end it will be the decision by the Driver's Committee, Race Stewards or a similar group of people who will review videos and talk with those involved that matters. I am unaware of the outcome of any review and can understand John's and Randy's opinion that John was not in the wrong in that the Chevron left him no "racing room". I can also see where the driver of the Chevron may not of had a clear view of John's approach before moving right. Nothing good happened.

Each race organization has their own set of rules regarding car to car contact. Here is HSR's policy: "PASSING: The responsibility for a clean pass rests with both drivers. It is the responsibility of the passer to make a clean pass and responsibility of the passee to maintain a predictable line. " And this "UNSAFE OR DANGEROUS DRIVING WILL NOT BE TOLERATED. Sanctions will be imposed on drivers who are found at fault at the discretion of the Competition Director. Drive safely without incident."

The answer was simple (35 divided by 8 = 4.375) Ring - 35 and Pinion - 8 It will serve as the back-up to the R180 Giken 4:38. Thanks for your suggestions and inputs. I was hoping for something really rare but another 4:38 (not in a "K" case) is great. Been brain dead for the past few days after working on a new project.

I have looked all over that ring gear and have diffs from 3:34 to 5:38 (hill climb or stump puller). Those are the only markings.