gnosez

I had the chance to take a few pictures of this car a few months ago.

Mike - I have a few more pics of your car and was wondering if I could post them here.

The attached pictures show one of the Preston 5-spd "dog-ring" transmissions that was used in the BSR/Newman 240/280 race car. It doesn't use synchros but rather dog rings (see picture of it next to the gears) and ratios can be selected from a wide range of gear sets to match whatever type of road condition you might encounter for a given race situation. Note the lack of tabs at the tail of the tranny (one for a 280b and two for a 280a tranny but none on this one). The added collar at the end of the tail and the machined spacer were mounted to provide additional support for the shifter as more pressure (a lot of pressure) is used to change gears. There are AN fittings for the gear oil cooler and the inner case was machined to accept the gear sets. You can see the name "Lee" at the bottom left on one of the photos and that's Lee Chapman who had the BSR Z in his shop in early 1999 after Bob sold this car and several others to a gentleman in New Hampshire. The car is now owned by Adam Carolla. Here are the gear sets I got when I purchased the tranny: QTY MFG Ratio Gear 1 Gear 2 1 Preston 1.67 18W30 30W18 2 Preston 1.94 16W31 31W16 1 Preston 2.00 16W32 32W16 1 Preston 1.24 26W21 21W26 1 Preston 1.14 28W31 31W28 2 Preston 1.18 28W33 33W28 2 Preston 1.29 21W27 27W21 1 Preston 1.35 20W27 27W20 2 Preston 1.40 20W28 28W20 3 Preston 1.53 29W19 19W29 2 Preston 1.61 18W29 29W18 2 Preston 1.67 18W30 30W18 1 Preston 1.76 17W30 30W17 1 Preston 1.82 17W31 31W17 1 Preston 2.43 34W14 14W34 Here are the gears now in the refreshed tranny: 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Requested 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.138 1.000 Gear Set ?? 2.430 1.530 1.290 1.140 Final Drive 3.321 2.138 1.346 1.135 1.003 It likely you would never use 1st gear unless you were trying to put the car on the trailer using the starter.

Thanks Les. Nice follow-up. PM me re: BSR/Newman 300ZXT

If the electrical issues turn out not to be the problem, it might be that the arm is caught up in the wires that make up the sender unit grid. You would have to remove the unit to determine this however.

I know this sounds too easy but do you have the sender unit installed upside down?

In the mid-90s, Nissan's young (mostly Ford and GM) suits were at a meeting out west with car dealers and offered the very vehicles up for sale at deep discount ("to get rid of all that junk"). As one dealer told me they'd like if it all go away since "Datsun" and any race history was unwanted in the new Nissan. He purchased the GTP ZX-T and the Baja truck.

I was at the Townsend road corner this September during the vintage race week (we were late coming down from The Glen on our way to the Seneca Lodge). My vids won't upload for some reason but they still run the old course each year with selected cars, including the winner of the first race in 1948, a pre-war Alfa. No Zs ran the old course but 2 were racing at the track and looked very good out there. I've attached a pic one of the 240s and two pics of the Repco Brabham BT30 I had the pleasure to move around in the pits and garage area. That car is over in Australia right now being prepped for the Tasman Revival. Sir Brabham will be attending.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-strengthened-transmission-mount-s30-s130-58208

My bad... Well I hope to see you at one of the SVRA events next year.

I don't believe SVRA will allow you to stroke that engine my friend nor will they let you run a V8. The rules on car classification are very well written so take the time to re-read them.

Far from it...in fact I'm surprised these guys let me hang around. But I digress. 5th, you and I are on way different wavelengths hence my goodbye and thanks for all the fish.

I'm not even sure "Look at the spoiler and feed the beast." makes sense but it must mean something to you. After reading your ride height/coil-over thread and this one I think I'm done here. Good luck, have a nice life and enjoy the ride!

How about these instead?

There is no reason to buy an airdam with holes and then glass them over so you attach some support. And the holes aren't even in the right place to give you the support you need (think center and then off about 10-inches on each side of center). Have you read the results from the Hybridz wind tunnel tests? More coverage, fewer holes.

A 1 oz. coin (99.9 pure silver) goes for over $325., so it just might be a bargain.

Other than the looks why do you want an airdam with holes in it? Just wondering.

Nice vids and timely too as I've been thinking about Road Atlanta for the last few days and it was nice to get a clean, clear track lap to bring it all back. My last lap there was in '74. After talking with Bob Sharp and one of his crew members (JR) I've been thinking about this track and wondering what it must have been like to do the reported 162 mph they remember him doing. We were looking over the pistons from that engine along with the head and triples and thinking hell let's use them to build our next race engine. Of course that would result in a nearly 16:1 compression ratio and a life cycle of a few hours. But the HP!! Oh, well back to the 13:1 build. Again, thanks for the vids and the great sound effects....

Ground Control betamotorsports MSA All sell coil-overs and springs can be ordered in the exact rate you want/need. All depends on the size of your wallet and the type of driving you plan on doing.

Once again, Sebring Tuning, a John Cook (re: John Cook Racing) company, has a very nive line of mufflers. Mine is a 16-inch (or so) round SS one that sounds great and works well with my 3.2L NA motor.

I strongly second Jon's assessment and his suggestion....

My Rebello (12:1) does 314@crank so (money) pistons, cam and head do make a difference. Right now we are planning a race motor to throw into our 240 using the E31 head shown below and the Mikunis (both from the BSR 240). We thought we could just bolt on the triples after refreshing them but it seems they've been ported out to 50mm and instead of the small venturi,a race tube was soldered in. Taking the tubes out to insert smaller venturis would be a major pain so now it's engine building time. So much for fixing my street Z this winter.....

The tapered bolt? I have 2 news ones. email me: john@baddogparts.com

Up here in New England, we tend to run large front bars and 3/4 rears with whatever shock/spring combo you like (can afford) for street Zs. Even Zs w/coil-overs and higher spring rates (over 250) use a rear sway bar. Race cars here, unlike the West Coast version, seem to run no rear bar but the spring rates (almost always w/coil-overs) are in the 300-400lb range. Shocks: Tokico HTS or Koni ($180 vs $1,200) - guess which ones we run? Jeff G78 - love the tire stickers on your avatar...

Nice going!!! We're working on finding the last bits of the Nissan Comp dog ring tranny that will let you select a better 4th gear to overcome the drag effect. I hope to have Bob Sharp sign the case since it was his tranny we have in hand. Of course a gnose and a few other aero bits might make a bigger impact but if the tranny helps in some small way we're happy to be a part of your adventure. I've hit just over 140 with my Rebello 3.2L on my gnose 240 but it was real flighty. Not even sure what 150 let alone 170 would be like (can you say airborne?). In talking with Dave, he hinted you have a bit more HP than my street engine and I'm sure some ITBs would help some.