gnosez

Best pans out there for the money. The ones you see being sold by most other companies are ones made by Zeddfindings. Sorry to hear you need them.

A hammer works fine or you can use a large socket and get all the edges to fold over at once.

Wipe some silicone on the weatherstripping and then close the door (with car in the sun) will shrink the rubber a bit and might help.

From your pics it look like you are. This is a 35+yr old car put together by hand and made before laser alignment, robot welders, etc. Did you just install new door weatherstripping? If you feel you must then mark the current location of your door and move it back 1/8 or so and see how that is.

Take your time and inspect your new car for rust. Where to look? Everywhere. Make a chart and grade how bad and what size each area is. Get the car on a lift, remove carpets, or anything that gets in the way (like the cowl). An awl or screwdriver can be used to find weak spots in frame rails, floors, under the doors, etc. Then develop a plan to remove and repair each spot. In the mean time keep it as dry as possible (rent a storage spot, cover with a breathable cover) and keep it away from any salt covered roads. Let us know what you find in your "rust" inspection. There isn't anyone on this forum who hasn't had to deal with this problem, so you're not alone.

Besides MSA, Black Dragon sells a complete kit for $439.95 (includes tunnel, headliner, A pillar, windshield header, upper door sides, door thesholds, doglegs, rear wheels/strut towers luggage riser, and hatch panel. Try Too Intense, Banzai Motorsports and Classic Datsun as well.

Well done and well written! Glad to hear you and the Z survived. I had someone at the track tape on cut up cardboard tubes on my old 240 steering wheel to give it that nautical look. I got the message (Grant wheel). Better Tires, seats (no polish on those vinyl seats!!!) and a harness will allow you to concentrate on the track (and all those noises). I hope you plan on doing the track event at ZCON 2010. See you there....

It is indeed higher and at a different angle (more upright). I know of no one making this part but if I can get some time we'll start making them. Maybe I can find a picture of the car itself since the the mold is much help at this point.

We had a chance awhile ago and made molds up from the BSR/Newman 280 (fenders, front air dam, and the rear dam). The "Victory" would be the middle child between the BRE and the BSR version in height and angle.

I solved this issue by going with the TechnoToy Tuning TC rod after replacing the nylon piece in the aluminum set-up every year. Easier to get more caster with it as well.

You could buy some used ones that have less than stellar panels on them and take the old skins off. I should have several in storage but I'm guessing someone in you area has them as well.

Roadster 5-spd I'm thinking....but pics will tell all.

Excessive camber? Please define.

Steve - I was 53 when I wrecked my 240 and restored another 240 from the ground up (down to bare metal) in under 6 months. I won the Mr. K award for best car at the ZCON that year. Seven yrs later and I take my complete suspension down each winter to refresh and check it, plus I am always updating and upgrading my Z. This year I am rebuilding the triple 44mm Mikunis. I'm waiting for my wife to go away on a trip so I can start washing parts in the kitchen sink. She leaves tomorrow for a week! By Spring I will have put in over 200 hrs on my 240 and another 100 on the race car. Keep at it. I later figured I worked an average of 6 hrs every day for 6 mths and of course I had a job with travel that kept me away for weeks at a time. Every day do something, even if that is just organizing or planning your next step. polish or clean something. It'll get done. Look forward to seeing you at ZCON. The New England club has 7 members signed up already.

They still sell them. I got mine from Betamotorsports.

It's going up for auction later this year after a brief run at the Mitty this Spring. I'm pretty sure I don't have the funds to cover that check.

On the way to the track you look around and think - "I'm in the upper 10% of the very good drivers on this road". After a few sessions on the track you say - " I'm in the lower 10% of all the drivers on this course".

Track insurance is usually available for a small fee (about $70. per $10,000.) . Your regular insurance will not cover an accident, even if you didn't cause it, so plan accordingly. In 10 yrs of high speed "school" events I have yet to see a car to car incident but there is usually one car per day who's driver lost control and had a bad day at the track. I'd have to say that most were caused by over driving their cars. That said the most dangerous thing you will do the day of your track event is to drive to the track and back. Everyone is driving in the same direction, no cell phones, texting, vans, SUVs, or inattentive drivers (a concrete wall at speed tends to get noticed).

And both feet in! You will likely get an instructor for the day and his experience on this specific track is worth the admission price alone. Listen and try and do as he says. If you're not happy with your instructor ask for someone else (you're paying for all this). Don't worry about how fast you are (or aren't) compared to other drivers but be very prepared to stop or go by someone doing something stupid. Drive the line not the car in front of you and in particular don't attempt to drive the line a Miata or similar car takes into a corner. This is not a race. Learn the track, be smooth and hit the apexes. Smooth is throttle, shifting, braking and steering all combined. Next time out you can experiment. Oh, and don't do what is a common novice mistake and down shift and let out the clutch too late in a turn (can you say 360?) or not match the tranny/engine speed and chirp the rear tires (can you say sideways?). Look forward to seeing your vid. Be safe and have fun.

Cibie made a 7-inch concave light that was clear on the top half. It was amazing and very illegal here in the US. I took them out of my 6-volt VW bus and put in 12V bulbs when I purchased my first Z back in '74. They got moved to several other cars/trucks before they were retired after too much pitting.

I guess this should sum up my opinion on mods: 1972 240Z(G) 3.2L w/triple 44mm Mikunis, 3/8-inch horns, K&N filter, AZ 6-qt oil pan, AZ radiator, Coolflex hoses, TWM cold air box, MSD6LA, Pertonix, Magnecor 8mm Comp wires, NGK-B8S plugs, coated 6-1 header, 2.5 exhaust, Sebring Tuner muffler, one wire GM 100 amp alternator, gear reduction starter, kill switch, '83 5-spd, Quaife R200 w/3:90 diff, Ron Tyler diff mount, 300ZXT CVs, 4-piston Wilwoods w/12.5-inch rotors front, 240sx rears w/brembo rotors, SS lines, adjustable prop valve, 16X8 BBS wheels, 245X45 Yokohoma tires (2.5 neg camber F/R), TechnoToyTuning T/C rods, 1-inch front sway bar, PDK front strut bar, poly bushings, Tokico HTS shocks, GC coil-overs w/250F-275R springs, camber plates, corner balanced, rollbar, Cobra seats, SafeQuip 5-pt harnesses, Grant wheel, Hella horns, PIAA fog lights, H4 headlights w/harness upgrade, g-nose, BRE-style rear spoiler, Nissan gun-metal gray w/10% more flake.

There are no issues with poly and TC rods in S30 cars. This does happen on S130 cars. If you are concerned use either rubber/rubber or poly/rubber. I sell Z parts and the only reason I've sold TC rods was after someone was in an accident. Before I switched to TechnoTunings TC rods I ran poly/poly on my very low 240 that is driven on crappy New England roads with no issues whatsoever. As to the rest of your suspension refresh, I would strongly suggest you go poly everywhere but the following locations: tranny and steering coupler. Stay with the stock front and rear sway bars but use poly bushings. Put in poly steering rack bushings after you sand them down to make them fit. And there was no mention of replacing all the bearing, ball joints and tie-rods. Do it if they haven't been done in the last 50-100k miles. I have just done a customer's 280 last month and the difference in the ride was amazing.

I have built a holder for struts made out of two 4X4 blocks of wood with holes for the lugs to fit in. With the blocks clamped to my workbench, I place the strut on/in the blocks and use a long pipe over my 1/2 breaker to first tighten and then (with luck and a lot of swearing) to loosen the nuts enough to let the impact gun do it's work. Heat works in extreme situations but must be careful applied.

Dave - I have those same open connectors on my '72 and Pete Sanders is just in the process of putting his wiring all in place in his '72 and he called me about these very same plugs. Not to worry. If you'd put in an LS1 and a Painless wiring assembly you would be you driving your Z right now....

Upgrades? I got a few. Regrets? None. I did it my way. Read, listen, learn and then build your car your way. 1972 240Z(G) 3.2L w/triple 44mm Mikunis, 3/8-inch horns, K&N filter, AZ oil pan, AZ radiator, Coolflex hoses, TWM cold air box, MSD6LA, Pertonix, Magnecor Comp wires, NGK-B8S plugs, coated 6-1 header, 2.5 exhaust, Sebring Tuner muffler, one wire GM 100 amp alternator, gear reduction starter, kill switch, '83 5-spd, Quaife R200 w/3:90 diff, Ron Tyler diff mount, 300ZXT CVs, 4-piston Wilwoods w/12.5-inch rotors front, 240sx rears w/brembo rotors, SS lines, adjustable prop valve, 16X8 BBS wheels, 245X45 Yokohoma tires (2.5 neg camber F/R), TechnoToyTuning T/C rods, 1-inch front sway bar, PDK front strut bar, poly bushings, Tokico HTS shocks, GC coil-overs w/250F-275R springs, camber plates, AZ rear billet control arms, ST rear sway bar, corner balanced, rollbar, Cobra seats, SafeQuip 5-pt harnesses, Grant wheel, Hella horns, PIAA fog lights, H4 headlights w/harness upgrade, g-nose, BRE-style rear spoiler, Nissan gun-metal gray w/10% more flake