gnosez

While I completely agree that all the basic issues related to car reliability (brakes, cooling system, engine, etc.) should be gone over and repaired as needed. The question that you should ask yourself is simple - "would I drive this car 500 miles today and be able to get back home without be towed?" If answered no or you don't know then you need to fix your car. As to keeping the car "stock", this might work for some folks but if you end up needing to replace any suspension parts like bushings, springs and shocks an upgrade to poly, better shocks and progressive springs will take your Z to the next level. Rust, brakes, cooling system, engine/drivetrain, suspension, stereo, then upgrade...

Gee - I expected that bringing the BSR 280ZXTTto the Mitty, that hasn't been turned over for maybe 20 years or more and will be out on the track would have gotten a rise out of someone on this forum. Oh well...

From the firewall forward all S30 bodies are the same (both coupes and 2+2s) so if you need a donor section from another S30 it will fit. The rail sections from the firewall back is different (similar- 240 and 260, similar- all 280s, 2+2 are just longer at the back sections)

It looks like both the Tom Cruise Showroom Stock Z31 and the BSR/Newman 280ZXTT are making the trip down to the Mitty this year as well. The Cruise car had to undergo an extensive body restoration due to the damage on every surface except for the roof. I have copies of several handwritten estimates done after each race and each one goes something like this - "left rear qtr, right rocker, left fender - $900." The ZXTT has undergone a "refresh" and is running once again. I don't know how hard they will run the car but it not entered in any of the official races. The BSR/Newman 300ZXT will run at The Glen in the vintage races in September. All three cars are being put up for auction later this year with 100% of the proceeds going to several children hospitals.

The water (coolant) has a shut off valve mounted on the inner wall under the left side of the glove box. A lever from the front console opens and closes it. This allows hot coolant to enter the heater core (and then recycle back into the engine). So yes, you can shut it off from the engine but right now it seems that either the stopcock isn't working (stuck or damaged) or the cable isn't attached. Go under the dash with a light and see what's up. Say good bye to your back as you twist upside down (pad the door sill).

Steve Millen might make it in your limited scope. Let's see M. Thompson's off-road truck series winner - '86,88 & 89. Indy Light '86. Twenty IMSA GTS wins. Both the 24 hrs of Le Mons and 12 hrs of Sebring in one year. If you want to expand your search to include drivers who did all this without seatbelts, rescue, fuel cells, crash barriers, communications, or radial tires then look no further than Juan Fangio, Phil Hill, Sterling Moss and Dan Gurney.

If you greased the ID of the bushing then the inverse is that you greased the OD of the bar when you installed it. Just finishing a complete suspension refresh on a 280 and one of the last things put on Friday was the front sway bar. You'll be fine. If not and it starts to make noise then 1) remove and re-grease, 2) turn up the stereo, 3) get a louder muffler.....

Carl - actually a lot of us used the stock R180 and raced them on weekends and then drove the car to work on Monday. I completely agree that race teams and folks with more money had the diff modified but there were more of the OEM versions being run than the other way around IMHO. Jon - completely agree that the gap between 2nd and 3rd in both the 4-spd and early 5-spd is too wide for an under-powered car. We swapped out the 4 spd in the race car as it was killing us as we went from 2nd to 3rd going uphill.

The R160 found in WRXs handle 300hp. The R180 diff used in the US prior to the introduction of the R200 were raced for nearly 5 yrs with lots of cars making over 300hp. The R190 (Z432 and Nismo) can handle over 300hp. Unless you are putting out more than 300rwhp and don't make 5000rpm launches from the line that R180 will be just fine. Depending on wheel size and tranny gearing the difference between the 4:11 and 3:90 is about just under 400rpm (4:11 higher than the 3:90). So at 80mph w/my 3:90 I do just under 3100rpm and if I had a 4:11 it would be around 3500rpm.

Meant to say I like your model and have attached pics of mine.

Seems like you are back to my earlier suggestion re: removing or moving the diff. As to being on your back behind the house that would mean clearing a foot of snow. I've sent the day draining all the fluids, replacing them, and checking for loose nuts and bolts under the car. Mine is in my garage on jack stands and I don't have clearance for me and the creeper and even on my back it's tight. I understand your problem. The bar is a spring so you can't pry it off using household equipment.

I was just going to edit my post with the thought that you might and I mean might be able to get the bolts off the diff with the nuts attached. My estimate your odds at less than 30%. Worth a try...

I'm sure someone must have gotten one out without removing the diff, but I'm not one of them. I am in the process of doing a complete suspension, bushing and bearing job on a '76 at the shop and to get the bar out the diff had to come out ( I needed it out for other reasons) but where the bar bolts to the body of the car doesn't allow you to just remove the 2 bolts that hold it to the diff and then just muscle it off. You could support the diff, lower the back end of the driveshaft and loosen the diff and RCAs carrier. Then you can move the diff forward a bit to allow you to get it past the diff bolts and then drop the bar itself. If you haven't replaced your diff insulator mount, now would be a good time. I'm sure someone has a better approach......

try www.hybridz.org

"These are not the the control panels you seek...."

Have you talked with folks in the local Z club about shops they have used and would use again?

The engine swap should put you in "Ultra-modified" and you want to enter it in just the "Judged" portion of the show (not both). Without the turbo swap it's the number of modifications that are visible that moves you from street mod, Nissan mod ,etc.) If you put it in a ziplock bag once it's done and then take it out for the show you'd win a gold medallion trophy (more than 290 out of 300 points). Since you will be driving it around, for anything other than stock class, clean and free of dings and dents is every thing. ZCCA car show rules (and classification of cars) can be found at www.zcca.org Want more help, PM or email me.

If I used just my right foot to limit my revs, my engine would have blown up years ago. Oh, wait, it did.....

I second that completely as I have been running an MSD 6L and a Pertonix in my Z for 9 yrs now with no issues at all. The cheapest rev limiter I can think of is to set the throttle/gas pedal to limit the amount it will travel. Works but not what you're looking for.

You need to get a ring welded on and while you're at it check for cracks and other rust issues.

Need to do this so as I plan on going to both NICOFEST and ZCON this summer plus 4 or more car shows here in New England and 6-10 race events: Street Z 1) rebuild triples 2) install new fan controller 3) complete tune-up 4) dyno tuning 5) replace all fluids 6) refresh suspension bits (pack bearings, add larger bump steer spacers, etc.) 7) remove tail lights, clean inside, replace w/new gaskets 8) design, build and install front/rear tow hooks 9) build radiator shroud from nose to radiator 10) corner balance 11) alignment 12) clean, polish, clean some more Race Z 1) build cold air box/filter set-up for dual TBs intake 2) remove door mechs and install strap to raise/lower window 3) install new foam in fuel cell 4) redo plumbing to pump and cell 5) install new muffler 6) make windage tray for 6-qt oil pan - install 7) check all nuts, bolts, etc. 8) repack front bearings, check TC ball/socket 9) replace hatch glass w/lexan 10) general cleaning 11) corner balance 12) alignment 13) dyno tune 14) install new lap timer

I do indeed know your pain and concern about what to do next. Here are a few important things to do/know: 1) get complete control of the vehicle (either in your hands or some shop that you trust) 2) DO NOT AGREE TO ANYTHING THAT THE INSURANCE COMPANY OFFERS FOR SEVERAL WEEKS!! They will try very hard to screw you and in most cases the first person who contacts you gets a bonus for doing so. Be prepared to go over this person's head and be ready to complain to your State's insurance commission office, etc. Keep records of every conversation. 3) Get copies of the police report. 4) call at least two local junk-yards and get a quote on the scrap value of a totaled Z (use the average value - likely to be under $200.) 5) once the insurance company has seen your car remove everything that is aftermarket or hard to replace (an extreme measure should they take it away) 6) if they total your Z offer to buy it back (see number 4) 7) get copies of sale prices for Zs in similar condition as yours (Blue Book, AutoTrader, club classifieds) to show them what a replacement vehicle would cost you if they try and total your car PM or email me if you need anything other advice. Bummer.....

So at the very least you need to take this beauty to the ZCCA convention in Nashville this July, perhaps the Mitty at Road Atlanta in April, and the ZDayZ - Tail of the Dragon event in May. Between these three events near you, your Z would be seen by close to a 1,000 Z fans and you will experience first hand their feelings. I can't promise women will fall at your feet but you'll be swamped with requests for info, photos, praise and smiles. Keep track of the look in their faces as they come upon your Z and take that back home with you.

While not currently on the road (snow, salt, ice - oh my!) my 240 gets driven about 7,000 miles a season and those are mostly hard miles. It is not a daily driver and is set up pretty close to a track vehicle. I would raise the ride height, change the tires and remove most of the interior to get it to that stage. Car sits low, rides on 275# springs and Tokico HTS shocks set at the mid-point. Camber is neg 1.5 front and 2 rear. Corner balanced within 50 #s front/rear, side to side and cross. Hard to tell what the addition of the Techno TC rods did other than allow for more adjustablity but I did get an extra 3 degrees of caster and it turns in very easy. I made too many changes last winter to the suspension for me to pinpoint each change to an immediate effect on how it handles (before and after).

I've had the Techno TC rods on my 240 for 3 yrs now and have had no issues whatsoever. It has allowed me to get 3 extra degrees of caster as well.