gnosez

....as he drops the gearshift knob and walks away....

As to getting a better response you could swap in a different booster and MC. Try bleeding your brakes more often using high quality fluid first before spending time and money doing a parts swap.

We have run the stock drums (steel) in our 240Z race car for over 10 years with comp shoes (CarboTech or Portfield) and the SW13 Toyo calipers and Z31 front rotors. For street use you could run aluminum drums instead.

Some folks might want to use the hooks on each side to place a strap over the engine so when you lift it up in the bed of the truck it stays as one. You could then cross strap the whole assembly down, transport it and lift the whole thing off once you've arrived. Me? I turn it over and use it as a fishing lure

Here's the one ZYA built over 10 years ago ('cause the one in the attached picture had been sitting in my garage with an L28 since 2006 and I just took the short block to the machine shop last month). Sides are: 24x7 Ends are: 111/4 x 4 Plywood bottom Notch for oil pump is 4 3/4 x 2 Opening is 8 1/2 wide Wheels: whatever rolls your boat Fits both stock and Arizona Z car 6 qt pans

No, I'm thinking it takes him a really long time to do the crossword puzzle...

I will post a picture of a simple, inexpensive wooden cradle that we've been used for 10 years. It is built around the oil pan edge with a cut-out for the oil pump. It has 4 wheels (you decide what type and height) and I install a "j" hook on each side for a strap so I can lift the engine with the cradle attached into my truck for transport.

It would weigh less there however... ...just stating the obvious.

They weld to the rocker lip and floor. You could also weld our frame rails over the existing ones to add a 13 gauge piece of steel and use those as jack points. All this said being a uni-body, if the floors or rockers are rusty then nothing you weld to them will be structurally sound.

If a Z came with a title that matched the VIN tags but not the firewall VIN and the seller told you beforehand would you still buy it? Let's assume for this question that we are not talking about an early Series I but some run of the mill 240 (a 73 represented as a 73), a driver not a show car. You know what you're getting. And no MOT inspections just your everyday take the title to DMV and register the car. I did an informal poll today and got some interesting responses (practical, ethical and legal).

Captain, my Captain...sometimes I worry about you. There is only one way to install these which is to take the "L" lip of the plate and place it along side the rocker lip as shown in the picture attached. The 45 degree angled other side sits against the floor. You can attach more than one per side and we recently made a 30 inch version for a guy with a homemade convertible 280Z. We have sold over 200 sets for owners of 240, 260 and 280s and none have been returned due to fitment issues. The one in the picture is being held on with a rare earth magnet.

Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar... I doubt anyone in Japan or here the US thought that nearly 50 years later these cars would be both collected and a thread about VINs would merit a discussion. Got a Z that is in some way significant or historical;, then it should have matching tags. Got car number 10356? If you're concerned about it's resale value spend the time and money to get a proper title in the State you're in. But maybe you have car 10357 or 10355, are they more important than car 10356? They made thousands of these cars and not all of them are special. Hell, if they (they being Datsun/Nissan) thought these were special they would have kept making the S30 body cars for decades and not moved on to other versions. First and foremost these are objects to transport you from Point A to Point B (with a smile on your face to be sure) but that's all they are. What we think they are and how they make us feel is what makes them special. Alan, you have perhaps more person-to-person experience with the folks who made this cars, so you tell us, were they build to be put in a museum or instead to be driven? And yes, I get the scam, fraud aspect of your concern as someone with a special Z or two and I am more than aware of the slippery slope issue as well, but these aren't cars where they made 12, 189 or 457. When a stock 1973 240Z with a high production number is sold for six figures or becomes a most have collector car in Europe then I would reconsider my opinion. ....sometimes a car is just a car.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10387 ...or this instead for a few dollars (or build your own) which you can use all by yourself but you do need to push the pedal down, I use this to bleed the brakes on the race car, which I do in between races and I don't use speed bleeders (don't need them with this bottle set-up. Jack the car up, remove front wheels, connect hose and bottle to right rear bleeder, loosen bleeder, remove MC cap, pump brakes, refill MC, close bleeder, repeat. Check petal, repeat as needed. Works very well on the clutch MC/slave too.

I believe if this thread was started say 10-15 years ago when really nice Zs were selling for well under $10k and parts cars for over $1k, the issue of titles, ownership, banana republic sellers, etc. it wouldn't have gotten much of rise from the Z community. Now with prices exceeding twice that amount, buyers are thinking about a particular cars re-sale value instead of the joy of immediate ownership. You got a Z for a good price, fixed what your budget allowed, drove the car and sold it for whatever the market would bear. With clone 'Cudas selling for over $150k (because the real ones are worth too much to drive it seems), it looks like the Zs are hitting their stride in the marketplace. For those with significant cars (low VINs, real G-noses, famous ownership history) I understand why you should be very concerned about titles, matching numbers, firewall stamped VINs, original parts and the lack of bondo. As to the USA and our banana republican ways, it should be noted that a scam involving the production and sale of an old English (production/race) car using a chassis number that had not been registered with MOT for more than 10 years is not just an American issue. When the original car and the copy were entered in a vintage race it raised a red flag leading to the discovery of a decades old scam using left over parts. A car once thought to be worth $180k is now just a parts car. Okay, back to getting the rest of the Thanksgiving meal ready....

Notice the small holes on the tail light cut-outs (towards the license plate mount). They look to line up with the shape of a late 260/280 tail light. Just saying, not knocking....done as part of the piece or afterwards.

That gnose has more Bob Sharp catalog parts on it than any other Z I have ever seen. The owner is a Bob Sharp fan par excellence.

Not really good at keeping small insects out however.

If you getting that feeling that all this is too much work and worry, sell the car to me as I could care less about what does and doesn't match up. I was surprised to read that the local LEO even knew there was a firewall VIN but maybe there is a database available to them to check. Vintage tube frame race cars had a chassis number stamped but most of the 30,40, or 50 year old cars have been re-tubed multiple times and about the only thing that is original is the section of tubing that has the stamped chassis number, I'm talking about race cars worth hundreds of thousands of dollars, where the tube, the engine, the body work have all been replaced, repaired or modified and yet they are deemed "original". This is true for a 1956 Ferrari race car that is worth north of $16MM that ran at LeMans and was recently restored by shop near me. But I digress, sell me this troublesome Z.

Unless you had a Cogsworth Vega with the optional camper pop-up tent. That you would remember....

Rebello suggested a series of holes on the top of the stock housing to increase air flow. Not on the bottom where the air was hotter and perhaps dirtier. I sold that housing and the K&N filter after I moved up to triples. Those get an ITG foam filter, not an airbox because that lost me 10+ HP.

I have made them with half washers welded or ground down a fatter washer. Never did think to see if anyone sells them.

What gear oil does Subaru recommend? And do they suggest a friction modifier as well? I ask because there was a Z at VIR who installed an LSD diff before coming to the track and forgot to put in the additive. He trailered his car home after two 25 minute sessions. Diff was making a loud noise and I recorded a cover temp in excess of 300 degrees F.

Costs are in my last post. Sources for a diff, stub axles or a Quaife? Ebay to start, Futofab, MSA, Google...the world is but a few clicks away. And here I thought this was a thread that was partially about DIY.

I based my cost comparisons on new bearings, seals, stub axles (Subbie diff), labor costs and the diffs themselves. Both diffs would be used, I assumed the gears where in good shape and the Datsun diff would get a Quaife (not welded or OBX'ed) and the clutch plates on the subbie diff would be replaced as needed. I like the Quaife over an LSD diff on the track but don't see any advantage when used on a street car. I can truthfully state that I came in late and missed the DIY portion and put forth my opinion based on a few simple personal rules on installing parts in or on my Z. One of them is - never install something like an engine, tranny, diff that takes time and real effort to put in only to have it fail because I was too cheap and didn't bother to install new bearing, seals, rebuild kit, etc. just so I can drive it for a little while and then have to go through the whole process again when said part goes bad. My $.02 Subbie diff (3:90) $700-$900, stub axles $550, coupler $175, clutch plates $200 ($1,700-$1,900) Datsun diff (3:90) $500 and Quaife $1250 ($1750) Assuming bearings, seals, labor and shipping would be similar for both diffs