gnosez

Wolf Creek was sold to FutoFab. The cost comparison between a built Datsun R180 (quaife, new bearings and seals) and a subbie R180 LSD that needs a set of stub axles to accept the half-shafts and a Datsun coupler from an R180 to match your driveshaft is within a few hundred dollars assuming you have to buy everything.

To set a dollar value on the "I need all the HP I can get" extreme, a race head set-up can run you an easy $5k with $8k not impossible to spend. We took one of the original BSR heads to our local and very good machine shop to have a duplicate made for the back-up engine. I was thinking $3k. Nope. A good tune-up is the place to start. If the HP bug bites you there are many ways to get relief it just depends on the size of your wallet.

I hear you but from personal experience a battery hold down is only as good as the person who remembers to check to see if it's tight. Datsun made a mistake when they put the positive post under the fender and unless you're driving around a concours car (you can swap the original battery back in for a judged show) I don't see a reason to not switch. But each owner decides what he or she wants to do. I have a wire harness hanging in my garage that caught on fire (real flames) when the battery jumped up and hit the support with enough force to cut through the protective plastic cap while driving on the Skyline Drive. I limped the 240 to Banzai Motors on some bailing wire and Mike suggested the 24F solution. A few Zs later and each one has had one.

Might I suggest when you need to replace a battery that you consider a 24F style which has the positive post away from the inner fender/engine bay support. You would need to get new cables to match the required lengths.

Mike - I run the Bob Sharp #33 replica with VRG and have most of the parts you need. I have sent you a PM with contact info.

Sent you a PM

...been there, done that... Dry fit, dam, grind, dry fit, repeat

or this perhaps? https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/fujitsubo-legalis-r-exhaust-system-datsun-240z-260z-280z-s30/

Okay, let's try and keep this simple. You can have twin exhaust outlets (tips) and use one muffler or you can have a single exhaust leading to two mufflers but these aren't a dual exhaust set-up. A true dual exhaust is split from the cylinder head itself. which in a V6 or V8 is very simple as you just plumb the pipes from each side back. A straight 6 requires the cylinder exhaust ports (1-2-3 & 4-5-6) to be plumbed separately back to an individual muffler. A crossover "X" can also be installed to equalize back pressure. Stock L-series engine don't have enough HP to make a true dual exhaust set-up worthwhile.

For someone looking under your car or just the exhaust tip? You can put a period correct looking tip on a ST muffler.

How about a Sebring Tuning muffler set-up? Jim Cook Racing history and a great sound! I have had one on my street Z for over 10 years and it is awesome (to me that is - everyone else might think it's too loud) Not sure why an L-series engine wouldn't sound good with dual/twice pipes. I run both open and Supertrapp duals (sound limits)

For thin film I figure somewhere between 8-17 inches of Hg (mercury). A 1.75 hp vacuum pump usually can reach 26"Hg. I suggest you research the use of sand in a vac chamber. You can also build one out of plexiglass but I have seen them made of plywood with a plexiglass top or window so you can see what's happening. The weight of the sand keeps the barrier shield film mostly uniform over the material you want to layer over the part. To me it seems that you would need to build up several layers to get to the thickness you're hoping for. You can also research carbon fiber vac methods

You can build your own vacuum chamber out of plywood (and lots of sealant).

The inner rubber boot for a 240 might not have been made for a 5-spd but the one from a ZX was. Use it (after trimming) with either the pleather outer or the one from a ZX. Before switching my ZX shifter would pop out of 5th when I lifted.

I have a set of 44mm Solexs with no large venture, just a brazed "elbow" noodle and an 1/8th inch hole for gas to flow into the engine. Lift and the engine spits, get on the throttle hard and a flame appears out of the twin exhaust pipes. Or, you could just buy one of these... http://www.hotlicksexhaust.com

The box wrench trick works quite well (I have one that is curved) and I leave one rear tire on so I can push it with my foot while laying under the car which rotates the driveshaft and puts enough pressure to loosen the nut. I use the tire when I tighten them as well but this time I put some muscle behind the effort and make two or three quick turns of the tire to ensure those pesky nuts stay on tight.

As to the two BSR 280ZXs, that front one seems to be the '79 and the one in back is the purpose built tube frame 1980 ZXTT. And on the matter of the engine being closer to the firewall, it might be an optical/camera angle issue, they built the wall out to add strength or they actually moved the engine back and perhaps a tat rotated to the right to get the weight distribution just right.

......"loose on the shaft" AFTER you get to the shop....

Double nut or wire tie...that's what one single data point did to solve the issue.

One last front suspension, "poly" question. And were the poly installed TC bushings installed as per the specifications or just tightened too much? Either way, I know what I did when installing both sides with poly and then drove it hard for over 25,000 miles, I can't comment on what others did.

Snapping which TC rods? On 240/260/280Zs or ZX? I am still waiting on an example of poly TC rods causing an issue in an S30 body Z. I ran them for 5 years before switching to the Techno Toy Tuning TC rod version. I believe you have mistaken the issue with ZXs to encompass all Zs.

Another cause for wheel hop is a loose or not even threaded on strut gland nut. I have to take exception to the use of poly as a cause of issues with S30 body cars in any location, including the TC rod box (which is a ZX not a Z issue). I have either poly or metal to metal on my 240s without any issues at all but my concept of a harsh but very responsive ride is more than likely different than other folks. Other than the TC rod box non-issue, I would love to hear tales of poly that were not ride comfort related.

I have swapped diffs in under 2 hrs but it helps that I do it regularly. I have a custom attachment for my large jack that allows me to hold the diff and half shafts without it falling off. Driveshaft bolts, mustache bar end bolts (take it down with the diff), half shaft bolts (at the wheels), diff cross member and carrier bracket bolts. drop diff, remove mustache bar, drain diff if you haven't already, remove cover, clean up everything, replace gasket and cover, fill diff, attach mustache bar, lift into position, add bolts.

Sorry to say, I'm can't make NJ but with some luck might be at The Glen in October. Did the Schenley Park race for the first time and is was the stupidest fun thing I've done in years. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward my cell number to you.

Mike - I've seen you race at several VRG events but now we'll be in the same run group it seems. I would be happy to share what knowledge I have of the early Zs and setting them up to race.