ez73

8th annual empire z car show on Saturday 10/11/14 sponsored by Nissan of San Bernardino 735 showcase dr S.B. 92408 award catagories 1st,2nd,3rd place 240z,260z,280z,280zx,300zx (z31),300zx (z32),350z,370z,and pre 1985 datsun (510,patrol,roadster,truck etc) 1 st place only nissan gtr(r35),Infiniti coupe. registration $25 includes free lunch,t-shirt,dj,raffle ticket. to register go to Empire Z - Z Club of the Inland Empire Southern California including Riverside,Ontario, Redlands, and San Bernardino

Thanks for the info. Is the text info from hizandherz at hybrid z? I went back to 2006 and could not find the post .whats the post heading,date of post,.started by hisandherz? can I use my existing flex plate? brake pedal $3?

I did the search but not finding all the reference material I need ,Are the 82-84 maxima trannys all the same ? the fourth gear is the electronic over drive? Found a couple of 4N71B trannys in Ridgecrest $250/$275 don't know what kind of shape they are in .It looks like the rebuilt ones go for $700-1200. still no definitive word on the Z31 drive shaft. still need more info thanks

I am thinking about swapping my 3 speed auto to a maxima 4 speed I know guys that have done this,but I need all the info thats required.The tranny I have is a 3n71b,the 83-84 maxima/84-89 z31 uses a 4n71b. I think the guy that did this from group z used a 82 maxima---is this a 4n71b? I think all he had to change was a shortened drive shaft. I heard a drive shaft out of a z31 will work. I am compiling information and checking into parts need some advice

I have a 73 240 also w/auto. After totally going through the rear of the car and replaceing all bushing and mounts I still had clunking noise like you described. All u joints were good. My mechanic finally found it,was the spindle pin bushing on drivers side moving and clunking. He took it back out (newly replaced) and put some grooves in the tube so it was more resistant to sliding. Problem solved.I have had this problem since owning this car 3 yrs. problem got more pronounced since replacing the bushing. maybe this is your problem

I think that I am going to go with a set for a 260z,msa carries them and in the black dragon catalog they appear the same as my old ones. Will check with nissan on tue. to see if available.

I am looking to buy a set of lower serrated washers/mount stoppers for a 73 240z I have new bushing and the uppers are available from motorsport and black dragon,neither of which carries the lowers. This would be the finishing touch to rebushing the car. everthing else is done including autotrans and diff mount. I am located near LA.Any one got any ideas where I can get these? Might have to go with MSA urethane bushing set ,but have to mess with old steel sleeve.

thanks for the replys I suspect I might have an electrical drain somewhere that caused the battery to drain and possible low rpm output problems with the alternator. In checking for drain does the amp meter go in series with the positive or negative terminal on the battery?

I have a 73 240 with 280zx distributer &coil,also has 280zx type 65amp alternator. About 3 weeks ago started missing at slow speeds. I thought it was fuel related ,air gettin in before the pumpas this has happened a couple times in the past. Ichecked out the hose clamps on my mazda elec fuel pump. Ithen changed out all the short fuel hoses and both fuel filters. put on my spare rx3 fuel pump still had the miss. Then proceded to the engine pulled all the plugs checked the plug wires and coil wire all looked fine. I just about gave up and was headed to my z guru buddies place and noticed the starter dragged when starting up. I didnt think much about it even though I had been on vacation for two weeks and hadn't driven the car much since 5/27 car show. Imade a stop at the bank and the car wouldn't start. Got a jump and noticed my amp guage wasn't even moving. Put my charger on the battery (10 amp ,5hrs then 2 amp overnight) drove the car and everythin g was fine. Alt. putting out 14.4 volts with fully charged battery, battery tested fine with batt. check guage (under load) This has me stumped ,alternator supposed to put out enough with a discharged battery to also run the engine,but it doesn't. All the equipment on the car appears to be fine, but it appears that the engine needs a "battery field" from a charged battery to run at lower speeds without a miss. At high speeds the alt. puts out enough to run everything. anybody got any thoughts on this. richard " ---" funk

Arne you were right about my t/l problem. I had two dual filament bulbs with one filament burned out. My car now is like car #2 in illustration. Iwent on a cruise in the rain last weekend and my t/l circuit shorted out. I have the t/l relay from zondabrain and kept blowing fuses.In trouble shooting I ckecked all lights,got to front marker lights,left front light was rust bucket.( I have h4 upgrade HL upgrade with parking lights which are tapped into marker light wires) when I disconnected these wires still blew fuse.Went to right hand side and disconnected the marker light /parking wires, the lights worked. Thought it strange because the marker light housing was pristine. Ipicked up two 280z marker lights fron pick-a-part and started putting everything back together. When I hooked up the right hand h4 parking lights to the marker light circuit the fuse blew awso! This was the problem. I am now going to pull both H/L buckets to check the condition of each parking light. I am going to put the front end on jackstands and pull each wheel, that way I can also clean my mag. wheels on the bench. Sure appreciate all your replys Richard (can't use nickname)Funk

thanks all for the quick reply. Stephen I checked out your attached illustration ,my t.l. assbly doesn't look like that .Ihave a stock 73. Arne your suggestion might bear merit.In order for the top 2 bulbs to perform double duty ,they have to have the 2 filament bulbs ,I am almost positive they don't.Iwill check it out. richard(----) funk

I went on a zclub cruise yesterday to the Petersen museum, and noticed the differences in which bulbs were lit up on 3 different 240's for braking and tail lights. looking from rear,bulbs on light assembly left to right top to bottom--1,2,3,4. Car#1 lights, bulbs1,2---brakes 1,2,3 car#2 lights, bulb 1,2---brakes 1,3 car#3 (my car) lights bulbs1,2---brakes 3only.My question is which is factory. Ithink #2 put in euro tl assembly. should my car light up like #1? With his headlights off all 3 lights came on for braking. with my headlights off only bulb #3 comes on. did he modify his? richard (can/t use nickname) funk

Thanks for the reply Will. I have 3 manuals and they all are very sketchy in this regard. I went to the post about euro tl on ebay and saw a picture of the assmbly out of the car. the light housing and the lenses do separate,might as well clean both while apart . Presume MSA has gaskets? thanks again----D

I have a 73 240,and was washing it today and noticed a darkened driver side tail light lense. I have a turbo muffler with a slash tip that sticks out even with the bumper guard. the clear back-up lense is particularly dirty. the drivers side on the back hatch mating surface is also discolored(painted recently) My question is I presume you have to take out the black plastic panelnext to the hatch to take the t.l. assmby out , but does the light housing separate from the lense? Is it worth while to get a new gasket or just put black gasket cement around unit after cleaning.I know all about the fume problems with the z and got it pretty much under control but havn't touched the tail lights ---- richard (can't use nickname)funk

fantastic pics Kodak gallery . Would"t have thought all those collector type cars would have participated. Then again cars were made to be driven. see you all at Motorsport richard (nickname d**k) (fix the site so I can use my name)

Hi JIm how are you doing? Installed those rims yet? I bought a second dist from that guy in Glendale . My z engineer guru buddy was able to make one good dist. from 2 nots so good. What a difference in the running of my 73 no hiccuping at idle no small miss at speed. I have a extra dist. left over(same number as yours) if your interested let me know . Bushing have too much play,the stator is cracked but all there ,ic module is ok (e12-92) vacuum adv. cannister may or may not be good. There is a guy online that sells the bushing for $15(he says that not always sucessful in replacing bushing) I,m pretty sure all other parts are available Let me know if you want it. d. funk (cant use my name)

not sure if this is where to post, posted set of ansen sprint wheels to parts for sale. Ihave pictures but they didnt seem to load any help? d*** funk ez73

I pulled everthing off the car. One fan blade bent rather badly ,others had tip wear indicating they had been rubbing. Waterpump looked ok no wobble or noise ,but probable replace it anyway. Clutch bearing felt ok,the fan had 4 half moon spacers this might have been putting it too close to rad. Tried without but fan blades came too close to idler pulley for ac. Thats probable what they are for. No one in this area seems to carry fan blade,probable have to go to dealer or MSA. Taking rad to radiator shop tommorrow, hope it can be saved. Thanks for the replies d***

Ihave a73 240z with 3 row radiator and MSA shroud. Yesterday after just leaving home car started to miss and die. After several starts engine loudly backfired two times.Managed to get back home to check things out,found one of plastic fan blades had bent under the shroud and gouged the rad. Then at that time noticed the gap on remaining blades was very small .Ihave driven over a year with no pr0blems. What would cause this? Been told that my fan clutch takes a long time to engage. Am going to take car to rad. shop on monday. If rad. not repairable want to go for a 4 row radiator ,new plastic fan and clutch. My concern being that since gap is so small will this happen again? The other option is one or two elec. fans with new 4 row rad. Hopefully someone has some feedback on this d*** Funk

Thanks for all the replies. I took off the finisher and removed the clip holding the lock .then removed the lock . just like mentioned the actuateing tab on the lock barrel was loose . cleaned off lock and latch mechanism put locktite on screw and reassembled . Everything works perfect now. By the wayI put the license plate light back together,cleaned everthing and replaced bulbs. Book mentioned #89 bulbs, at Auto Zone those are listed for dome/courtesy I picked up #97 for license lights etc .Seem to be not as bright as originals any thoughts? Thanks to all for the help d*** Funk