Jayru

MY EYES!! O GOD, MY EYES!! What a perfect way to ruin a great car...

But then what are you suggesting i should have done? The water was coming from the cold joint, i had no wall seepage. I have no underground streams/sources of water. It only happened under extended periods of rain where the hydrostatic pressure would force it through the joint. This is why i went with the channel system under the slab at the joint with a sump pump. Are you saying that's not a good method?

Do not keep driving/changing your fuel filter thinking if it gets blocked you'll just change the filter and be ok. It blocks in the sump/lines also, i know from experience. A spare fuel filter won't help you then. Good think i was only a block from the house when it happened...

Is that a sarcastic comment or a legimite question? Yes there is one... But they all (waterproofing companies), state they will only fix the waterproofing problem (if it doesn't work), not repair any damage the water coming in might cause... I'm planing to start framing an apartment as soon as the cement dries.

It's not sloped the wrong way anything crazy, but it is sloped a tad off level (in the opposite direction) in 1 or 2 spots. Well i just got off the phone with the service manager. He says that the system is supposed to be installed level on the footer. Even if it is a tad off in a few spots, he assured me water will seek it's own level and fill their system, reaching the pump, before it ever got to the floor. My guess is i would have a little standing water in the area's where the pitch was a little off, which would have to evaporate. To me, it seems like the logical thing would be to pitch it, but they say no. I just don't know. Hopefully they know what their doing.

Just an update. So they came and installed the interior drain system today, took about a half a day. Looks good, except for the fact that the drain system is not piched twards the sump, it's level. So i asked how the water will get to the sump if it's level (some areas slightly pitched the wrong way) ? They told me that water will follow the path of least resistance and find it's way to the sump anyway. I hope this is true I'm going to start framing as soon as the cement dries, if i still get water when it rains i'll be screwed.

Z specialties should have them in stock. Give him a call.

Gary, do you not believe in the interior drain systems? It seems that it's really my only option as i have two big porches that run the length of the house (front & back), making it impossible to excivate the exterior. Am i wasting money?

I just thought i'd update this thread. So i had another company come out today, Basement Systems. His pitch was a little more agressive than B-Dry, but honestly, i think their product is better. Instead of digging all the way down into the mud and installing a huge 4" pipe, this company uses an almost plastic gutter aproach that is only set down into the floor, above the footer. This prevents any mud/setiment from ever cloging the pipe, also it's much less invasive than the B-Dry system, less digging, mess, less of the floor/foundation cut out, etc. Yet it still acomplishes all the things the B-Dry system does. He priced me out for all 4 walls, same as B-Dry did, with an $8500 price tag ($2500 more than B-Dry), but then said i could get away with doing only two and that would aleviate 99% if not all of the problem. So the end quote was around $4000, lifetime guarantee (for those 2 walls), transferable warranty, etc. And that was with a sump pump, i was going to have B-Dry pitch it into a floor drain already there. So i think i'm going to do it. What do you guys think?

I have a poured concrete foundation. The water comes up from where the floor meets the walls, not the walls themselves. After a lot of research last night, it's called hydrostatic pressure. The only way to aleviate it would be some kind of drain system i think. If i put just a sump pump in 1 corner, would that relieve the pressure from the whole basement?

Anybody on the board ever gone about doing this or had a company do it? I get a tiny bit of standing water that seeps up from the floor, under heavy rain conditions, in a few spots in the basement. It's never been a concern to me, but now i'm thinking of finishing the basement into a small apartment. I called the company "B-Dry" and they came out to give a consultation. $6,000. :surprised They want to dig a whole trench system around all the walls and that just seems like way overkill (and too much money) for a little standing water here and there. Any suggestions?

Glad to see you smartend up and stoped hanging out with the Rifraf over at Galantvr4.org Paulo! ! So did you get rid of the GVR4? I will personally vouch for Paulo guys, he's been making CF and fiberglass parts for Galant vr4's (among other cars) a long time, and his stuff is premium quality!! So what year Z did you buy? I want first dibs on that front spoiler in CF you got there!

I didn't think that the spacers would have to be that big/push the wheels that far out? I see your point if the wheels had a 6" spacer on them, but would a 1.5" spacer really look that rediculous/be that noticable on a 7" wheel?

Hi All, Can anyone with ZG flares tell me how far the wheel arch extends past stock? I want to get a set of the CF ZG flares, and i currently have 15x7 Koing Rewinds on my car. I will need to get spacers made to bring the wheels closer to the lip on the flares. Anyone know what size to get? Do you have to cut the quarters to clearance the tires after the flares are installed? Also, what's a good place to have quality spacers made? Anyone else offer the ZG flares cheaper than MSA? Thanks for the help, Jay

Every time i read a thread like this i get very confused. How can you coat the inside of the frame rail with por-15 if they are welded to the floor, efectively sealing them off from getting the Por-15 in there?

FYI, i had a rust problem with my tank. I droped it to be boiled out and coated. While it was out, i replaced every vent hose with new. Put it back together, and it leaked! Turns out the one thing i didn't replace (the filler neck) had un-visible cracks in it that leaked when the tank was full. It looked to be in great shape when i removed it. After it got below the filler neck hole on the tank it stoped leaking, unless i made a hard turn. So i'd examine that filler neck real good. It sucks having to do the job twice!

Interesting. I didn't want to paint it because then i have to go back and remove that paint when i strip the car properly. But i guess a light coat of paint wouldn't be to hard to remove when the time comes. So does it convert the rust 100% as promised? even with no surface prep?How did you like it?

Big fan of you're video's and project as well. But i must ask, are these your buddies working with you on this, or are you paying these people? That looks like one expensive project if it's the latter... In any event, Keep up the good work.

So i've been doing some research on this stuff and it seems prety cool. But i have some questions. First i'll explain what i'm looking for... I have a 72 240 with minimal rust. There is rust in all the comon areas (battery tray, floor, etc.) but it is only surface rust. The paint has also begain to flake off the firewall (which will eventually lead to rust). Eventually i'd like to fully restore the car (but time and money are not a factor now). I'd like to coat the rusted areas with something to protect/stop the spread until i can someday restore the car. I have no time right now to strip/sand anything. I litterally only want to spray down the rusted/exposed areas. The Pickelex20 site says it can be sprayed on rusted/non-rusted metal with no surface preperation, and it will convert 100% of the rust to a black colored type thing. It also says it will last up to a year without applying any coating on top of it. Is this really true? Has anyone done this? I'm thinking this would be the perfect thing to do, just spray it on, let it dry, and i'm protected for up to a year. And if it begain to rust again i could just re-apply no? Will it damage existing paint, rubber hoses, ect? Let me know. Thanks, Jay

I would think you would decrease preformance with that setup. You're allowing two big open filters to suck super hot air in from the engine bay (especially with the header right below it). At least the stock air box pulls the air from the front of the engine bay (a little cooler anyway)