Jayru

What size are your tires? Edit: nevermind, i read your other post.

Why would non rusted (floor pan) sheet metal sprayed with undercoating be prone to rust? Is the metal in these cars just that bad? I'm assuming the 33 yr old undercoating was crap, but i would think the newer stuff would lock out moisture? It would kind of seem pointless to sell undercoating if it didn't protect the metal no? That's what it's made for. Not implying anything, just asking. How do newer cars avoid this problem? There undercoated no?

My specific questions: 1) Is it ok to scrape the undercoating (and paint) off the visible rust and coat it with por 15. then lightly undercoat the (por) spots to protect the surrounding non rusted, non por'ed area. Would that fix the problem in those areas? 2) if it is starting to rust through (good point about the tar paper Schevets i didn't even think about that :stupid: ) Then only treating the underside would not stop the rust? Or would the por 15 attack the rust as a whole, chemically chainging it on the other side (inside the floorboard) as well (even though it hasen't been physically painted on the inside)? Specific enough? I still think it's just surface rust, i guess i'll know when i hit those spots with a sander/grinder. I don't want to go through the hassle of striping the tar paper if it's not all the the way through.

Actually only one thread on what i wanted to do and i read it. And i was not happy with it's contents, which is why i posted this question. But thanks for the search concern...

Jason, So you're saying that the por 15 will stop the rust where i coat it, but it will rust in other places, or that it will rust anyway even with the por 15? If i striped the whole floor of undercoating, i should por 15 the whole thing? Thanks, Jay

Hi guys, I've been under my z today and found some external surface rust. I know it's only external because i pulled the carpet up and their is no rust inside. I don't have the time or money to completely strip the undercoating underneath, so i'm wondering if i can scrape the immediate undercoating around the rust off, scuf the rust up, and coat it with por 15. Do you guys think this will be a good fix? That will stop the rust from going any further correct? Let me know what you guys think. Thanks, Jay

Well, wish me luck tomorrow when i try the 6amp diode i have...

Nope, no 1N5062 diode. It's not listed.

Yea, i went to auto parts stores (don't sell diodes) and radio shack, after i looked through the diodes they had (which they didn't have the one needed) I asked the guy to look the # up. After it wasen't listed in the catalog, he called the main Radio Shack hotline. Turns out that diode was discontinued with no replacement. So if anyone knows if a 6amp diode will work in it's place please let me know. I'm going to just try it on sunday and see what happens if i don't get any advice otherwise. I just picked up the 60 amp internally reg alt, anything's got to be better than the dead ext one in there now. Jay

Ok, now i'm really confused. I reviewed the thread that Bambikiller posted about the swap and i have two questions. I went to 3 local parts stores near me and no one carries a 70 amp turbo alternator. Whether you say turbo or non turbo it lists the same 60 amp alt. Am i missing something? Also, the diode that the article reccomends is no longer in production. Can i use any kind? I picked up a 6 amp diode, the guy at the store said it will work and is a bit of overkill, but he said better safe with a bigger one than be sorry. Should this 6amp diode work? Electrical is not my strong point. Thanks for any help. Jay

I had a very similar condition to yours without the stalling. It turned out my alternator was on the way out. It would idle fine, but not rev past 3000~3500 break up and almost stall. The battery was low and the alt was not charging it, so it lost electrical power and starved the ignition of juice. I looked at everything like you did and found nothing. I didn't finally figure out the problem untill the alt took a $^!# all together. Hope this may help.

Hi guys, It seems there are 2 alternators listed for the 280zx. One for 79-80 and one for 80-83. Which is required for a bolt in swap in a 72 240? Thanks, Jay

This thread is worthless without pics!

Salt destroyed Panasports?

I'm confused. Do you Aussie guys have to tell your insurance co what engine is in your car? Or is this just for custom ins policies?

anyone know?

My 72 240 has sagging springs in the rear that cause it to sit real low in the back; so low that i can't even go out my diveway without scraping the rockers (Ouch!) I'd like to get a set of replacement springs for the car but modern motorsports has all different types of spring rates, which one do i need? Edit: actually they only sell coilovers, is there a place that sells regular replacement springs for our z's? Also, are the 1" eiboch (SP?) springs any good? I imagine even with the drop springs it should raise my car up? It's about 2" lower in relation to the front the way it sits now. Thanks for any advise guys.

The ROTA wheels only come in 13" though.

Just to let everyone know and for the archives, fuel/the gastank had nothing to do with my problem. Turns out the alternator was on it's way out. That coupled with a weak battery was starving the car/motor of electrical power/spark past the 3500 rpm range. With a new battery/alternator/voltage reg she runs like a champ now. I drained the gas tank as well and little to no rust came out. I'm going to flush it and change the filter again and see what happens. If the rust returns i'll drop the tank. Jay

What are the z caps worth in good shape?

What kind of wheels are those in the MSA kit pic's?

What happens in new cars then? They don't have evaporation tanks and elaborate complicated hoses. Is it built into (inside) new tanks? My understanding was it vented the pressure when filling up to prevent the gas nozzle from tripping prematurely. If that's all it does, there must be a simpler way.

Why do you have insulation all over your fuel lines? VC looks great!

Has anyone ever figured out how to eliminate that whole archaic setup? There must be an easier way to vent the tank no? It's only needed for when you fill it up right?

I got a new msa power antenna.