zclocks

The clock is very susceptible to any resistance in any part of of the gear path. I think you will find that the main drive gear is the problem. If the bearing is worn, as pictured in the attached diag., the larger gear driven by the motor is allowed to not mesh correctly with the motor drive gear. This in turn binds the all the gears in the train and the clock stops. The only way to verify this is to totally dis-assemble the clock and inspect / clean all the parts.

View Advert WTB 280z/280zx analog quartz clock If you have either of the 2 clocks as pictured For Sale please contact me @ zclocks.com. Advertiser zclocks Date 12/09/2022 Price $1 Category Parts Wanted Year 78 Model 280z  

I have used Damper DR in Redding Ca. They did a great job , but cost was $225 with shipping. You have to supply the damper as they mostly do American cars.

Yikes , I'm going to check my crank damper bolt!

I had my my 75 280 DP rebuilt(new rubber) about a year ago . It's very hard to find the 2-pully damper and they are not available anywhere. You can find the single pully, but there still expensive. If you do find a used 2-pully you should have it rebuilt. Mine was wabbling pretty good at idle, but off the car it looked and felt good! Just beware that a damper this old probably needs to be rebuilt, that's another $200.

Yes , I did put the rocker back and have a long list of things I need to check before I fire up the motor.

I was surprised when you said you were 30 min from home and you drove your car with rocker off the pad. I could barley keep mine running. Yea, I know I should be driving the car, but work, health, and a lousy restorer are my only excuses. Things got so bad with the restorer I took the car back and had to do all of the mechanical and electrical work myself. My car had 368K miles on it when I decided to do a rolling resto which turned into a frame up. My goal is to get the old girl back on the road by December. I hate to admit it, but this is a 17 year old project !

WOW, mine made a terrible noise that sounded like the chain tensioner let go! I would hate to be driving down the FWY and throw a rocker. Thanks for the input.

Thanks , that's what mine look like. Have you ever had a rocker come off the rocker guide?

Thanks , that's what mine look like. Have you ever had a rocker come off the rocker guide?

I have a timing issue that I need help with. 8 months ago I had my damper pulley rebuilt on my 75 280. I replaced the damper and everything was fine. I haven’t put the car on the street in several years , but start and let it run every couple of weeks. So for months the motor would start and run fairly well. The motor always had a very small mis at idle and up to about 1500 rpm. This was unusual as I never have been able to get the motor to run as smooth as I wanted. I should also mention that the motor was totally rebuilt many years ago and only has about 50 miles on the clock. I tried to start the car several days ago and it was hard to start, several back fires, very rough, and wouldn’t idle. I realized it was a timing issue so I removed the valve cover with the intention of checking valves and timing. To my surprise I found that the intake rocker on #5 cyl had jumped off the rocker guide. The adjustment nut was locked so the valve lash had not changed. I finally got the rocker back in place and set the # 1 cyl to TDC. In the past I understood that the lobe of the #1 cyl was to be pointing straight up at TDC. At TDC my cam lobe is at about 45 deg . I know it’s at TDC and I rotated the motor stopping on the timing mark to make sure that the piston was at TDC, also measured piston position, and both valves are closed. I checked the vale lash on all the valves and all were in speck (cold). At this point I was worried about a valve problem with the #5 cylinder so I did a compression check on all cylinders, everything was good and no leak down. I also checked the timing chain position and mine is #2 position and just slightly left of the notch. See photos for all the above. Here are my questions: -- Is the cam lobe on #1 cylinder supposed to straight up at TDC? --Is there a possibility that the damper pulley key was severed and the damper pulley has rotated on the crank shaft? --Why did the intake rocker on #5 cylinder jump off the rocker guide? At this point I want to check all possible timing adjustments before I restart the motor. Any help will be very much appreciated. Thanks…Ron

The adj knob is pressed on to the metal shaft in your photo. This can be disassembled, but is very difficult. The 240 knob is different from the 280, but is still pressed on. R

NGK BP6ES-11 plugs are no longer available? I guess I’ve fallen behind the times . Nine months ago I replace my 75 280 NGK BP6ES plugs and no problems finding them. I just tried to purchase new plugs at my local parts store and all they have is the resistor version. My research indicates that NGK is no longer making this plug? Has anyone used these in the 240/280 without problems?

View Advert WTB Quartz clocks If you have either of the quartz clocks as pictured for sale please PM with quantity and price. Thanks..... Ron Advertiser zclocks Date 05/17/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 77 Model 280  

Hey Steve did you find the pictures of your 200sx clock? Would like to see which one you have. Ron

Steve, Sure I'd like to see what you have . I might even have one the 200sx clocks. Ron

Just thought I would add a couple of comments. The prices that are being mentioned are from 2012. This was for a 240 clock converted to a quartz unit. Costs on everything has really gone up. Look at what gas prices are today. If your talking about converting to a quartz mechanism you first have to find a quartz clock and then refurbish/repair the mechanism. The cost for a quartz mechanism, Kanto Seiki, use to be $20, in 2012 , but today everyone thinks their clock is worth over $100 because it says quartz. Most quartz clocks don't work correctly or need major repair. This gets into trying to find parts, which are not available. In my shop I have to mold gears for the mechanisms I use because parts are not available . Finally you have to modify any quartz mechanism you use to fit the clock housing, especially the 240. This all takes time and patience. The current Kanto Seiki quartz mechanism I use has 17 unique parts I have to fabricated/modify so that it will work in the 240 clock housing. I'm currently working on using a different quartz mechanism that is available, cost effective, and will work in the 240 clock housing. However, it 's not a plug and play as and will still require many modification to the mechanism. My goal is to significantly reduce the price of a 240/280 clock converted to a quartz unit. The right up on the Equss quartz clock was good , but left out a lot of detail. I have done this conversion years ago and it's not easy and you have to fabricate or modify nearly every part. It can be done, but plan on spending several weeks getting everything to fit and work. Just my 2c......Ron

Well, I'll join in with my spam story. On this site I had a spammer send me a picture of a clock he was trying to sell. The numb nuts sent me one of my own clock pictures I used several months ago in an add. Oh, and another tell is "my paypal has problems, but I can use my son's" or "please send payment with friends and family and send me a copy of the transaction". right.

Where did you get the picture of the clock ? You might look at the site where you pilfered it from as there is a copyright infringement.