zclocks

Not really. I've had my car for 40 YEARS and still finding more rabbit holes to explore.

The D1 and " I " looks like they are interchanged. I'm going to look at mine and mark them with my label maker. This is something else I have never seen. I will check mine out tomorrow and take a photo. Ron

Good catch Zed... I have a 75 and this is what the manuals says . The "T" in the vacuum line should be connected to the D1 on the vac switch , but is connected to I.

You might try zKars on this site. He does a lot of work on Zcars and has a big stash of parts. Ron

The small gear has 11 teeth and the larger has 64. Both deteriorate over the years without maintenance and they are not available anywhere. Would you be interested in selling your clocks for parts?

Failure of CO is usually high fuel delivery, excess fuel. I have a CA 75 and it has always run rich. I would usually lean out the AFM and that would usually do the trick. Also, check your PCV valve and make sure it's working and not stuck. OOPS, didn't see zed's comment. That's a good idea to drive it at HWY speeds for 10 miles or more before going to smog .

If you going to replace the pump be advised that the aftermarkets don't seem to last . The last one I bought was $95, lasted 7 months, and was only used for about 20 starts. The first after market pump only lasted one year. The OEM pump may be costly but it lasts. Also, the after markets don't fit like the OEM and you have to make several modifications. Yes, 1/2 inch hose from tank to pump , but make sure you use FI hose out of the pump to the fuel damper like Zed said.

This is the location of the FI relay

Hey Zed, So the 76 has the same fuel pump shut off as the 75? Wasn't aware of that.

I This is the way I do it. 1) jack up your car , pull you battery out of the car , place it as close to the rear of the car, and using wire with alligator clips on each end connect the battery to the fuel pump. No need to disconnect fuel pump wire. There are two connections on the pump, one is larger than the other. The larger connection is the (- or ground) and the other is the +12vdc. This method just checks the pump operation. 2) The second method is open your rear hatch place your meter where you can read it from the drivers seat. Use jumper wire with alligator clips and connect to the fuel pump. Using extra hookup wire you have laying around to extend the wire to the test leads of your meter. Disconnect the spade connector( see previous pix of starter) that goes to your solenoid of the starter(so the starter won't turn) and then turn your ignition switch to start. If you are getting power to the pump you should read battery voltage. If you see voltage and the pump turns you have checked the FI relay, ignition switch, wire to the pump and the fuel pump. If voltage is there and the pump doesn't turn then the pump is bad. Hope this helps. And yes you very often need to be a one trick pony to work solo on your car.

look at photo I sent on Monday, Green is + , white /blk stripe is (-)

I was reading your post from the beginning and have a question. When you said the car wouldn't start did you mean the engine wouldn't turn over or it turns over, but will not run? Also the relay you showed is a Bosch std 30 amp relay that is used for everything and mostly in alarm systems. If this is hooked to your start switch the PO might have tried to by pass the wiring to the starter because the car wouldn't start. I had this problem with my 75 and have seen it on more than 5 cars over the years. look at the crude diagram I have drawn. I currently employ this relay because it eliminates running a high current through the ignition switch that if shorts in the steering column causes all sorts of problems.

Here's a couple of pix of the coil/res. Let me know if you need more

Sorry to digress, Ing module for 75 280 . Also be careful with the carparts manul as it covers several years. 75 has only one fuse link box and the manual shows two. I have a 75 and it 's different than the 76 in many ways. Do you still need a photo of coil and resistor wiring?

You can go to the following https://www.carpartsmanual.com/

View Advert WTB analog quartz clocks If you have either of the analog quartz clocks for sale please contact me. I know there are many of these clocks out there. Thanks....Ron Advertiser zclocks Date 09/12/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 0 Model 0  

View Advert ami wheel, 14 inch If anyone has a 14 inch ami wheel as pictured please contact me. Thanks, ron@zclocks.com Advertiser zclocks Date 09/10/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 75 Model 280z  

Try JK Electronics in Westminster , Orange county CA or the best is Torrance electronics in Torrance Ca on Carson street. Also" ALL electronics" in Van Nuys Ca.They are on line and only take electronic orders.

Well , RS is long gone or at least what use to be the Tandy Co. Look around in your area for an old electronics store. They are still around, but only a hand full still survive. Where are you located? If you get parts on the web they only want to sell quantity, shipping is high, and takes weeks to receive.

The clock pendulum should work no mater what position you put the clock in. Your problem is the caps and the transistor. Replace them with exact values as marked. If you replace just one then everything might return to normal and then later the other cap(s) may fail. If the coils are good then everything should work. DO NOT start bending or tweaking anything. If you replace the components, 3 caps and transistor, the clock will work as usual. As I said before if you over heat the coil wires you can destroy the coils. There are other problems with the 76-78 mechanisms because plastic gears were used. However, replacing the 4 components mentioned should correct the problem.

I should mention that the plires,used as a puller, is only to break the surface tension of the corrosion between the clock hands (Tin) and the clock shaft (brass). Once you get the hand(s) to slightly move you can remove it with your fingers. Also, the plires are used to remove both clock hands. I know that some hands can seem like they are welded on. In that case you can use 1/2 drop of "Blaster" penetrating spray and let it sit for a couple of hours (don't get any on the clock face). Just before you try and remove the hand apply heat from a hair dryer or heat gun and it will let go. Also, Blaster is the best stuff on the market and it penetrates all rust. I've remove many rusty exhaust manifold bolts / nuts that normally would break. "Blaster" and heat works every time.

When I mentioned removing the clock through the glove box I was referring to the 240Z. I always remove the 280z clock through the vent under the 3 gauges. You remove 8 screws and the clock slips right out. You didn't mention , but is your clock keeping good time? The way to adjust the clock hands is you have to remove the minute hand form the clock shaft. If you remove the shaft from the main clock gear and reinsert it you can damage the main gear. I enlarged one of you photos you posted and I believe there are two cracks in your main gear. The reason you shouldn't remove this shaft from the gear is the end of the shaft is knurled and there is an interference fit between the knurled shaft and the Nylon gear. The shaft is inserted in the gear when it is removed from the injection mold. The warm nylon conforms to the knurling and locks the shaft to the gear. Fast forward 40 plus years and the Nylon becomes brittle. You stress the Nylon when you remove the shaft and potentially crack it. The nylon is really stressed when you reinsert the knurled shaft as the knurling will not go back to its original position in the gear. When I say stressed it cracks and the teeth on either side of the crack separate.This changes the spacing between the two teeth and the mating gear can lock up or slip. Not much you can do now, but I wouldn't put additional stress on the shaft by pulling it out. If you want to get closer with your clock hand alignment you need to remove the minute hand with a puller that doesn't apply stress. Using the credit card and screw driver method is what pulled the clock shaft out of the gear. If you look at the photos you will see the puller I made. All you need is an old pair of needle nose pliers and a bench grinder. To insert the minute hand back on the shaft what I use is a tongue depressor(modified). As far as the rubber gasket goes just flip it over 180 deg and use it. The only function it serves is to push the bezel /lens out 1/8 inch for the alignment of the clock set knob. None of the mechanisms are hermetic. If the 240z clock mechanism was hermetic the clock would last years longer. You can remove the lens, but you risk damage to the lens and the bezel. Mask off the bezel with painters tape and polish the lens. The polish I like is Flitz, Semichrome, and Brasso. They all do a good job on the plastic.

It looks like you are right on . Of course it's hard to tell from the angle of the photo. If you set the hands to 6 o'clock it should look like a straight line, is it? You have to remember that the clock hands are very wide and there is gear backlash. The best you can set the time for is + 10-15 seconds. Trying to manipulate the gears once assembled is the hard way to go. Same thing like removing the 240 clock. Why access the clock by removing the heater controls when you can go through the glove box!