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Everything posted by zclocks
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
For sale is a 1-knob Rally clock converted fora 240z. This clock is completely refurbished and keeps good time. Price is $580 plus shipping and taxes. If you have questions please PM or contact me at ron@zclocks.com. Thanks for looking$580
Seal Beach, California - US
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View Advert For Sale: 1-knob Rally Clock 240z For sale is a 1-knob Rally clock converted fora 240z. This clock is completely refurbished and keeps good time. Price is $580 plus shipping and taxes. If you have questions please PM or contact me at ron@zclocks.com. Thanks for looking Offered by: zclocks Date 11/20/2024 Price $580 Category Parts for Sale
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View Advert Rally Clock 240z For sale is a single knob rally clock (280z) converted to fit the 240z. The clock has been completely refurbished and tested for several weeks. If you have any question please pm me. Thanks for looking.... Advertiser zclocks Date 05/31/2024 Price $580 Category Parts for Sale
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Jim, Good to hear that you have had good luck with your clock. NO I did not supply those clocks to Motorsports. You are one of the luck ones as I have several boxes of shorted mechanisms and leaking battery damage from the AA clock conversion. Ron
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View Advert Wanted analog Quartz clocks If you have either of the 2 analog quartz clocks pictured please PM with quanty and price. Note: These are only analog quartz and not digital quartz. Thanks.... Advertiser zclocks Date 03/06/2024 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 0 Model 1978
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Forgot to mention that the AA battery clock you mentioned has some problems. The AA battery for one can leak and cause problems if not changed every couple of months. Especially during the summer when car temp can go aver 150 deg F. Batteries don't like the heat and they repture and leak. The second problen is that the mechanism in this clock is not made for the automotive enviroment. This is $2 Chineese mechasm that is quartz driven and made for the ultra cheap indoor clock as sold in most discount stores. Modifications to the 240z clock when installing this mechanism will destroy the number face plate if you ever want to go back to the OEM clock or a good quartz conversion. Motorsports use to sell them . I know people that love the idea , but I also have several boxes of these clocks that were traded in on up grades for a better quartz mechanism that was NOT AA battery powered. Just opinion.....
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Hey Dutch, You reminded me of a test that I was going to perform on the OEM 240z clock input power . I have run the specific clock I have for sale at 14, 12, 10 and 5 volts. Thats right 5 volts and the clock works and keep good time. Not sure if all the clocks can go as low as 5 volts without adjustment, but I don't know why anyone would run the clock on 5 volts. Interesting test and a good performance of the motor and clock spring. The motor doesn't run all the time it just keeps the main spring wound. If the spring is weak it can be the reason the clock time will fluctuate, as well as change in temperature. Ron
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View Advert 240 OEM REFURBISHED CLOCK For sale is a completely refurbished 240 clock. This clock has been on my test bench for several months and is suprisingly accurate. Price : $230 Plus tax and shipping please PM or see my web site Zclocks.com Advertiser zclocks Date 03/04/2024 Price $230 Category Parts for Sale
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Good info. I personally use a group 64 in my Zcar and 91 ford truck. 2 years ago I was taliking to my local repair shop and was told barreries are only lasting 3 years at best?? Wow I can remember just 6 years ago I replaced my OEM Motor Craft battery in the truck and I had 7 years on it....times are changing.
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S is for slow and F is for fast . Make very small adjustments as you can over shoot the time. Ron
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View Advert For Sale: 2-knob Rally Clock For sale is a "completely refurbished" 2-knob Rally Clock by Zclocks which keeps excellent time. This is a great addition for any 240Z. For questions please PM . ....Ron Advertiser zclocks Date 12/10/2023 Price $1,598 Category Parts for Sale
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Very good! I'm not supprised that the caps were out of tollerance. I've found so many lately that I check everything. Make sure you start and stop the clock 10 or 15 times to make sure everything is good. Ron
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Oh snap! This is the meter I purchased on Amazon several months ago and it works great. The box did said it was a multimeter? https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Capacitance-Professional-Capacitor-Tester/dp/B07T9N2GLS/ref=sr_1_5?crid=68R71QQ2K9QX&keywords=capacitance+meter&qid=1695061403&sprefix=capacitance+meter%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-5
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I bought one of the capacitance meters on Amazon for $22 . I compared it with my old B&K 820 and it's very accurate. For $22 I thought it was junk , but wanted to see how good it was. Don't think I would check large power caps with it, but a vary nice unit. I check all caps before use for the simple reason I have been burnt several times. Installed what I thought was a new good cap only to find that the part was WAY out of spec.
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You need a capacitance meter to check caps.
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OOPS! that didn't come out right. The 2M ohm resistor provides bias for transistor so it is almost turning on. The higher the resistor value the lower the voltage(bias) and the transistor might not turn on . The first coil detects the magnets on the flywheel as it passes and generates a small electrical pulse in the first winding. This pulse passes through the 10uF cap going to the base of the transistor and turns it on. Current then flows through the 2nd winding through the 680 ohm resistor. This current produces a small magnetic pulse which gives the magnets a "push" when they pass through the coil and keeps the flywheel turning. If you can push the flywheel to start the motion and the flywheel continues to move then the transistor is working . However, it 's just barely working. That being said I'm not sure that the transistor is turning on hard enough to get the ball rolling , so to speak.
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Your correct it would be reducing the voltage there by making the transistor turn on harder. The C828 could have different characteristics compared to the replacement values we use today. It could be that the transistor you used needs a slightly higher Base voltage to turn on. I think there was more than one problem here and something isn't right between the 10uF cap on the base of the transistor. Replacing the caps and the transistor usually corrects the problem 90% of the time. If the coil values were off that could be the problem, but they look good. If changing the 2Meg resistor with a slightly lower value doesn't work send the board to me. I have a 280 test mechanism that I know works and that can be eliminated. I have seen problems with the mechanism that don't work like they should and suspect the magnets on the fly wheels have degraded. I can also check the component values and see if they are correct. Ron
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I just measured several ckt boards I have and all are above 2M ohm by 30% !
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Have you used your car battery to power your clock. I really don't like using the 9 volt battery as they degrade very quickly. You might power the clock from a car battery and see if thing change. Everything looks good. It acts as if the transistor is not working correctly. When power is applied the transistor is turned on quickly activating the coil which pushes the wheel and everything starts moving. It might be that a cap that was replaced is not the correct value. It might say 10uF , but in reality it could be wrong. I have a cap meter and measure everything I replace because of the poor quality caps on the market. As the Captain suggested you might check the value of the 2Meg resistor. I did some checking on the coil values you have, 490 and 153 ohms, and that is right in line with several circuit boards I have so I don't think that 's the problem. Ron
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Another question . Did you use a second 3904 transistor or is that the original one?
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Hussein, After you replace the transistor did the clock start on it's own when power was applied? How long did you let it run before you assembled back in the housing? My thought is that if it was running and then stopped when you reassembled the wiring (ground and power wires) might have touched the mechanism and caused a problem. You could have a lot of resistance in the spring and or the pivots of the balance wheel. Check the spring shape, teeth condition of the pink wheel, and the pivots. If the bearing are worn to excess the wheel will not run smoothly. If you push the wheel it should take several seconds for it to stop. Please post another picture of the circuit board mounted in the assembly. Ron