zclocks

Do you have the OEM fuel pump? Thanks....Ron

Up for sale is a standard 280Z OEM clock for a 75 or 76 that has completely refurbished by Zclocks. Circuit board was rebuilt, housing re-plated, lens polished , wire harness refurbished, and working bulb installed. The clock has been in test for 30 days and keeps fairly accurate time , plus or minus a few minutes per week. The price is $155 . Free shipping within the US. If you have questions please e-mail ron@zclocks .com Thanks for looking.......Ron

Hey Gary, I'm sure each wheel is slightly different ( center hole) and maybe the cap dimensions might have have grown over years of production. I could get mine on without shaving them down, but like I said a mallet was needed to remove. Thanks....Ron

I haven't started polishing yet and wanted to make sure I had caps and lugs fit the 14"wheels. I did see the other caps on eBay , but they are slightly larger than the MSA. I could get the caps on without removing any material , but it took a rubber mallet to get them off. Also, the stress on the plastic over time might crack the cap. By removing a few thousands the caps fit just like OEM and are easily removed. Ron

I recently purchase a nice set of " Western" slotted mag wheels , but no center caps. Yea, I know not everyone likes the retro style, but it works for me. Making it short I spent many hrs on the web looking for caps. Seems that the most popular is the 2.75 inch push on caps and the ones I was looking for didn't exist. I finally looked at the MSA cat and found they had the 3.183 inch caps.Taking nothing to chance I took a wheel with me to verify that the caps would fit. WELL, they didn't. I purchased one cap with the idea that I could make it fit. What I've discovered is that the caps have a range of interference fit and most of what I was finding, with new caps, was this interference fit was 0.055 inch. This fit would not work with my wheels and I suspect with others. Anything more that 0.045 in and the fit was so tight you couldn't remove the cap by hand. I suspect that over the years the injection mold tolerance and thickness of copper /chrome plate have grown. However, with the use of my magic grinder I took off 0.006 in and NOW it fits very nicely. So if your looking to replace or need center caps keep interference dimension fit in mind. Ron

Looking for center caps for Western slotted mags that have a 3.183 (3 3/16) inch center hole on wheel. The caps are front push on and can be plastic or metal. If you have or know where is might find these please contact me Thanks.........Ron Ok thanks for your comment Mark. I found the answer to my problem and no longer need the center caps. Not sure where to post the answer, but will link to this post once when I do.

Hey guys here's another Caution. Be very careful around heavy metals . This stuff is accumulative in you blood/system and might not manifest itself as serious, but it is . lead and Cad can cause major health issues as well as DEATH and genetic defects.Heavy metals are hard to clear the body. Welding throws off many different gasses as well as soldering, yes soldering! Lead levels can sneak up on you if your shooting , soldering or welding. Wear a GOOD approved mask for welding or soldering. Your lungs will thank you down the road. Short story: When I was in an exhaust shop years ago I saw a guy welding a up an exhaust pipe without eye protection(dark lens). When I ask why he said he couldn't see what he was welding? I thought then I wonder when he'll go blind . Not more than 2 months ago I saw a guy on Utube demonstrating a welder WITHOUT glasses. Also, if you do any sand blasting WEAR a Mask. The silicone in sand and many abrasives can cause silicosis. This is caused by exposure to crystalline silica, which comes from chipping, drilling, or grinding soil, and, granite or other materials. ZC

I've seen this discussed several times here and I'll throw in my 2C worth. I have a plating shop who has done all my plating for clock housings, screws , tubing, and brackets. What I thought was Cad was really yellow Zinc and blue Zinc. Most all of the Yellow Zinc is for my 75 280, but I have a lot of yellow Zinc done for 240 Rally Clock oscillators and mis-hardware. Cad is not as bright as the yellow Zinc. Depending on the chromate used you will have a red or green hue to the yellow Zinc. It's hard to tell after all the years, but a plater can tell you the difference by stripping a plated part. ZC

If you need a clock lens with bezel I have several that are very nice . Contact ron@zclocks.com

This is a hand tool I made years ago.....

I don't think the needle gauge from Amazon will work due to it's size. It might work, but needs to be modified. You can make a similar tool from a cheap pair of needle nose pliers. I did this yeas ago and it works very well. If you damage the hands I do have many in stock. As far as removing the screws on the back of the clock housing it takes the right size phillips and a lot of pressure to remove. If that doesn't work spray rust remover on the screws and let it set for a day or so before trying to remove ZC

Hey Jim, They do carry it, but might be out of stock. Post if you find the parts or had to make one. The other question is the rubber still good? Mine was shot when I did my resto and had scratched the window.

Have you tried Zcar source?

Zinc plate process will destroy your unit.

Quartz mechanism Ouch! your really going the wrong direction when working on the quartz mechanism. The electronics with this clock is rock solid and good to about 50 pts per mil. I have never seen a bad Xtl or cap on these mechanisms. The problem is nearly always mechanical and usually missing teeth on the two nylon gears . There are other mechanical problems , but to lengthy for this post. Std 280 mechansm If your going to work on the ckt board you need to: 1- make sure the coils are good. If the flywheel slightly moves it doesn't mean the coil isn't shorted or it will work if you replace all the parts. There are 2 coils , each has a difference resistance, and there are 2 versions of the ckt bd! 2-You need to replace ALL 3 caps (with exact values)and the tran. As mentioned in "DAVE WM" video the coil wires are very small, about 38 gauge , and a bear to replace. You can do everything right and still cook the coil in the process. Difficulty for replacing these parts is VERY HIGH, Unless you have done a lot of micro soldering and have the right tools I wouldn't attempt to replace these parts. Just my 2C Zclocks

You have two different problems. The back lights could be a ground to the lights or you lost pwr for the lights . Turn signal could be the same kind of problem .

Motor man. I've tried the Equus conversion and it's not as easy as the author makes it look. However, The dash looks very nice. How long did it take to have the dash recovered? . Zclocks

I know it's been a while since this article was written and it's very good. Including the photos makes it a lot easier to understand. I've made this conversion several times without problems. The one comment I have is the 280z unit that was used is from a 77 or 78 280z. The 75-76 280z has the same font and face plate as the 240 including the 6500 red line. If you use a 75 or 76 280z tach for this swap you don't have to touch the face plate or needle. Makes things a lot easier. Zclocks

I WTB your 280zx, or 280qtz clocks. Please let me know the condition,quantity, and price. Contact: ron@zclocks.com Thanks

I now have New Rally Clock Oscillator box by Zclocks. This photo is the first one out and currently taking orders., It's a plug and play if you have your own circuit board or I can supply a complete working oscillator . Contact me at :ron@ zclocks.com for pricing and info.

Dave, You got real lucky with just a cap that was bad. In my experience the tran goes bad all the time and the two coils do drift to the point that they are not usable. Nice wording on UBER careful when soldering around the coil wires, that can't be stressed enough. They are about 35 gauge and easily to overheat. I haven't seen a Simpson 260 for years and loved the one I had when I was in the service. Good job!! Ron

The 2-knob Rally clock box I'm building will really look nice as soon as It's plated. Not sure on the price yet, but you can e-mail me at : ron@zclocks.com if interested. Thanks.....

dhayes5, Deoxit is basically a contact cleaner and should work. However, most of the 240 mechanisms I have seen look like the attached photos . Most cleaners are not aggressive enough to remove all the grease, oil, and dirt. The other problem is bearing wear . The best way is to completely disassemble the clock , clean , and inspect for damage. Hope this helps

I have both the parts you are looking for. You can contact me @ ron@zclocks.com The 3D printers do not have the detail to hold the tolerances required for the motor gears. Ron

Hey d3c0y, If you measured the feed through to ground and it was shorted then one can surmise that the capacitor internal to the feed through was shorted. However, I have not seen one that was shorted , but I always measure the case to feed through just to make sure. One question I still have is what is the capacitance of this feed through and what noise is trying to be eliminated, frequency? I'm not sure this feed through is relevant to the OEM ckt bd as there are several internal caps on the subsequent ckt bd(s) that take care of this potential problem. The OEM ckt boards have 3 revisions , C_D_E over the years, and I have tracked each trying to understand what they , JECO, was trying to do. Not sure if this feed through was very useful after the first revision other that a convenient place to connect the power wire (red) to the (green) motor power. Not sure if it's relevant to your ckt bd , but what I have observed on the OEM bd is that there is only an input resistor for current limiting and a Zener pull down to clam the voltage. In my opinion if Jeco was concerned with noise then why didn't they address this in a ckt up front and the voltage, full wave rectifier. Subsequent clock manufactures , Kanto Seiki and Citizens both have DC filtering on their clocks. One of my pet peeves is that Datsun protects the clock on a 10 amp fuse? Most clocks only require 15- 20 mili amps so why put it on a 10 AMP ckt!!! By the time the fuse blows the clock will be a puddle of metal. .The only protection in most clocks is a simple resistor that has to melt before it protects the ckt. I've seen this in the std clocks, calendar and the 2-knob rally clocks. The clocks in my cars are all fused on 1/4 amp fuses and that is still high .Not that there is a problem, but come on 10 amps! All the 240 and 280 clocks are fused on 10 amps by Datsun . Anyway. enough of my ranting. Hope this was of interest to someone. Ron (Zclocks)