Capt Mark

I picked up a tank that was supposedly out of a 260 and trying to put it in my 70/240, the straps are about 3” short . Do I need to hunt down longer straps or longer bolts or drop back and punt ? :stupid: Anybody been here done that? ps....The 260 tank is near perfect inside and out........ Thanks mark

Montezuma, PM sent.

Thanks Mitchell, I sent an email to Dave, he has helped me out before. Montezuma, I believe the Nisan part number is 12010-Y8606 (1mm over) but not 100% sure, I think the 81-83 non-turbo had flat tops. Thanks for your input, this is my first motor build. I have owned 3-240s and never killed a motor, in-fact the motor that is in the car runs great but the numbers do not match. Looking for more horses to drive on the weekends.

Thanks Guy, I will give him a call Monday. I want to get this Motor running, no pun there...:-) Capt Mark

Ok here is my issue... I bought a short block N42 built by Marc Sayer, performance engineering in 1999 that was wrapped and stored. He put dished pistons in it, but I want to go with flat tops and bump up the compression. L2.8 - 1mm (040) over flat tops To the point… I am having a hard time finding flattops pistons 040 over. Not looking for forged, Motor should be under 180 hp so cast is fine. Does anyone know who sells them or could you please point me in the right direction? This is my base specs "for now"……(going in a 70/240z) • l2.8 N42 Block flat top pistons punch 1mm over • E88 head w/ mild porting • 1mm head gasket • 270-80F cam grind III • New timing set • N36 intakes ported w/ early z balance tube • 4 screw SU Therapy w/roller bearings, modified jetting, nozzles • 3/2/1- 2.5” Header jet coated w/ new twin tip exhaust • Lighten fly wheel • new clutch, pp and t/o bearing • HEI Points less distributor • Turbo oil pump Thanks for the help, I will take all I can get. Capt Mark ps... I searched pretty hard all day

After looking at it long and hard I sucked it up and re-did the ball joints correctly, just because someone was an idiot that is no reason to be an idiot. I can now do ball joints in under an hour....... Lance thanks for your opion you are right they built it that way for a reason.... Capt Mark

I am redoing the front end of my 70/240 being careful to label and bag everything as well as taking many photos. I picked up everything from the powder coater and started to reassemble when I noticed the photos were not inline with the book, it seems the brain surgeon that worked on the front end last assembled in opposite sides. Yes, the brake calipers were forward on the car also the ball joint were mounted on the bottom of the transverse links. Ok, I got the brakes going in the right direction but mistakenly mounted the ball joints from the bottom of the transverse link. :stupid: It seem to clear every thing and actually cleans up the assembly. See attached Does anybody see a problem with this assembly? Will be OK as is? thanks for the input. Capt Mark

The trick is to take it to someone that does it all day, he will show you, and he did. now...... how do I delete this thread?

Ok, I think this will be an EZ one what is the trick to getting the retaining ring around the outside seal on the caliper pistons? Thanks for the help.......

I had the exact same problem and it turned out the relay was fine, the problem was the starter. I replaced the starter and it has given me a problem since. Capt Mark

Thanks again Carl, that is what I suspected. Capt Mark

Well it is raining just about everyday now its time take the legs off the Z and put on the new suspension so........... Does any one know if the 70 tie rod ends and ball joints are different size than 71, 72, 73 ? Thanks Capt Mark

I have continued to drive it and power has stayed about the same.... Got a compression tester today and did a compression test today and it is all over the place...... #1 = 153 psi #2 = 155 psi #3 = 150 psi <------head leaking here #4 = 151 psi #5 = 162 psi #6 = 160 psi What should the approx range be, L24 w/ and E88? I could not find any specs in the books or on the net...... Thanks again for your help..... Capt Mark

I have a 20-20 maco paint jobs, it looks good at 20mph - 20 feet away.....I bought it that way, it is a driver and I will leave it that way until I want to go into full on worry mode. If you have the budget and want to show then car spend the money. my .02 Capt Mark

Carl......New head bolts are on the list...... Beandip......Oil is clean, I need to do a compression check ASAP Ed......I am sure they are rusted in...thanks for the air impact tip I think I will drive it till the rainy season (summer) I have most of the suspension parts to do as well........ Thanks for the input..... Mark

Roger that....I set my torque wrench to 55lbs/ft, I did not want to push it due to history of the car. I suspect it has been leaking for a while do to the build up and if the head was done 30K back they probably did not use new bolts over torque them exceeding the yield strength and did not re-torque them as required. BUT who knows….I think I will just drive it and see what happens… BTW under the valve cover was not too bad, some typical build up but no real sludge issues. Thanks Capt Mark

Hi Carl, It is leaking a little oil down on the block just above the dip stick, I went to re torque the head to specs and the bolts did not budge, I tried to back them off a 1/4 turn and the bolts would not budge. So I closed her up to consult the experts…… What do you think? need more info? Thanks Mark

Guess what I found today?............ I discovered the head gasket was leaking, I warmed it up pop the valve cover to re torque the head and it is maxed out, my guess it was over torque and the bolts are maxed out as well….. History, for those of you that do not know I bought this 70/240 after it was sitting for some 6 -7 years and am bringing it back to life….the OD says 130K miles the previous owner said the head was done 30k back. What do you guys think should do, pull the motor or just redo the head again? What would your next step be??

Carl, Sorry for the confusion, The rears are Koni adjustable. Mark

Will, Check this out, is this what you are looking for?

I am going to order today, what color should I go with RED or BLACK?

My Illuminas came today, bushing kit will be here next week....... I think I will start with the front and work my way through the back....... Does anyone have a drawing of bean dips spindle puller? I can fabricate one for the Florida Z's to use. Thanks for the info guy's once again you all have been a great help.........

Carl, It is the 70-240 I resurrected last month............ most of the bushings are original. I want to do all I can while I have the suspension down. Any other bushing suggestions?

Roger that! I will just buy what does not come in the kit.....ie, rear sway bar set, diff and trany.....I am hoping this will not only give me a better, stiffer ride but also take out some of road noise.......the 35 year old rubber has given up!!!!

I was just looking at the 260/280 kit 7.18102, it does include the rear sway bar bushings and the trany mount bushings. It is only $10 bucks more, and it might work better for me since I have the 5 speed and a rear sway bar. I have not looked at the trany mount to see. Are the rest of the bushing the same in both kits? thanks