rclayton12

I'm currently reviving my dealer add-on A/C system in my '73 240z. So far I have purchased new rotary compressor, mounting bracket (came with York comp. mounted on passenger side next to fuel pump), new drier, new expansion valve, new condenser (parallel flow), and all new hoses (with o-ring fittings). I am using the dealer add-on evaporator (sits in passenger footwell). The system holds a steady vacuum. I have freeze-12 on order and it should be in on Friday. I will let you know how it performs once it's charged. My Z is primarily a daily driver as well.

Was getting my car inspected at a service station in Austin, Tx. They guy at the counter tried to tell me my car was worth $250,000. He said he used to have a 1971 240 back in the day, but he sold it because the fuel injection kept giving him problems. '71 240z w/ fuel injection? I definitely corrected him.

I have a 1973 240z, and it seems like the doors are not opening they way they should. I did replace the door seals and for a while you had to slam the doors to get them to close, but now you just have to firmly close it and it latches all the way. The problem is when you go to open the door, you have to push the door in while pulling the door handle up. From the inside all I have to do is pull the handle and the door springs open. Is this common or is there some adjustment I can do to fix this? I would think you could just lift up on the door handle from the outside and it would open. I have this problem with both sides, passenger and driver. Thanks, Richard

Flower mound huh? I'm moving to Austin to go to school on the 25th.

mine was just in the jumble of wires underneath the dash behind the control panel, just dig into the wires and you should see it. Its under the dash right over the transmission tunnel, I had 2, one white and one black.

Success!! Finally got the heater fan working again. Turned out that there was two inline fuse holder underneath, one white and one black. I had just found the black one for the first time, and the end was melted off. Bought a replacement from radio shack and it solved the problem. Thanks for the help!!

ok now I have a new problem....Just before replacing the VR, my heater blower motor went out, the smell of burnt wires was lingering in the cabin of the car. Now i've checked every fuse, even the one that is behind the control pannel up on the transmission tunnel, and simply cannot figure out why the fan is not working. I do have the after market honda blower motor installed. Another thing that is strange is that the lights that illuminate the vent controls for the heater no longer work either, they went out with the heater... any ideas??

Just because I am getting a sub, and like high quality music does not mean I am going to be rattling windows?? good one

It does have the built in amp, thats why I really specifically chose this one. It should be here on friday and i'll try to get it in this weekend and let ya'll know how it sounds. -thanks

Thanks alot for the help Zs-ondabrain... do you think i should mount it vertical with the speaker towards the rear, or horizontal with the speaker pointed towards the right side of the car??

I own a '73 240z and was trying to get some opinions on the best location to mount the subwoofer. It is a SAS bazooka bass tube. In the manual it mentions to mount it in the right rear corner of the car, but I was thinking maybe mounting it just in front of the shock tower on the right side, as I want it to be seen. What are your opinions?? Where would I get the best sound from? -thanks

Yes I have replaced the flat tops with the SU's, but I do have to turn the engine over for about 10 sec. in the morning, or whenever the car has been sitting for a while (about 6 hours), I guess I need to look at replaceing the choke cables.

Does a '73 have a cold start valve? Mine does the same thing

You might make sure you have good cables attached to your battery, if they are corroded you might as well replace them.