rclayton12

Bought a replacement voltage regulator from Autozone for $30 and intalled it. It solved all of my problems.

Thats the exact color I had my 240z repainted back in December...looks great!!

My 1973 240z came with dealer installed "shelby cal 500" 14x6 slotted mag. I still have 3 of the wheels, but one was cracked and I couldn't find the specific shelby brand so now it is driving on the appliance slotted mags.

Is there a specific way to test the voltage regulator, i was suspicious that it may be malfuntioning?

Hey guys, I had my 1973 240z repainted about a month ago, and I am having an electrical problem. It seems like there is some spot that is drawing current from the car on and off. When driving I can look at my ammeter and usually it is a little bit past half way, but now after paint, it is about 3/4 of the way to the right. Everynow and then, it will go back in the other direction about 1/8 of the way over to the left, it will cause my headlights to flicker dim. When that happens, everything seems to have power sucked from it, the blower motor slows down, and my lights will go dim. My question is there a place that i can check that maybe the guy at the body shop might have missed connecting a ground, or paint might not be giving it good contact? Thanks!

alright guys thanks for all the help!! I will see what I can do once the rain stops

I have rebuilt both the front calipers and the rear wheel cylinders. I know when i was finishing up with the rear, the manual did say to keep pulling up and down on the E-brake untill it stoped clicking, which I did. The problem though is that the e brake doesn't even feel like it is doing anything unless you pull it as far as it can go up, and my boot that I have for it is starting to split because of it. I was trying to fix it so that there is less "slack" in it, and it will engage at a smaller angle.

Is there a way to adjust the ebrake so that you do not have to pull the handle up all the way?? In my 73 240z, I have to pull the e-brake as far as it can go before the parking brake is in the least bit usefull, and still at that point, the wheels don't lock up so I absolutely have to leave the car in gear.

Do you have the air box with the backing plate that was used for the SU's? I converted my 73 and would really like the appropriate airbox instead of using the cheap adapters i have now.

I have a 73 240z with a 4spd tranny and a rear end out of a 73 240z which had an automatic tranny. I was wondering what kind of tranny fluid and rear end fluid you guys use and what weight to get. The fluids have not been changed in over 10 years while it sat. -thanks

When I once rebuilt my flat tops, I had the same problem on the front carb. I had to use a small jewelers screw driver and somewhat pry it out. It ended up getting bent up a little bit and I had to spend some time straightening it out. I believe you must remove the floats to get to the needles out.

The carbs I bought were from Z therapy, and I installed them in late April I think. I do have the flowmeter and can balance them, but don't you only use it when using the idle screws? How do you adjust the mixture independently?

I have done my conversion from flat tops to SUs on my 1973 240z. I have removed the air pump and the egr valve and cleaned it all up with a 240 style balance tube. I was wondering for the other Z owners who have done this same conversion what mixture setting they run. I know the Ztherapy video says around 2 1/2 out. I also have upgraded with msd ignition with the zx dizzy. I am concerned that I am running rich when I regapped my spark plugs the other day and they were all black. I also am only getting about 19 mpg. What setting do you run on your SUs? -thanks

Double and triple check the battery cables, they are cheap to replace and I had the same type of problem. I could somehow start the car just by jumping the wires, but the car wouldn't start without it. I replaced the terminals and it fired right up.

I ran the flat tops on my '73 and they worked fine untill they needed a rebuild. I rebuilt both of them with a rebuild kit from oreillys and lots of berryman carb cleaner. Taking them on and off was the hardest part of the project. Just be careful not to tear up the tops of the screws, because they somewhat hard to remove. Vise grip pliers were very helpful.

Well I might just try hooking up the zx dizzy (when I get one) to the msd unit directly. So you use just the pigtail connection instead of the white wire connection? Also does anyone know what gap I should set my NGKs to once I install the ZX dizzy and the MSD 6A?? What about the timing, stock on my 1973 240Z ( with emissions) is 7degrees. But now I have a cleaned up 240z balance tube, SU carbs, electric auxillary fuel pump, K and N air filter, monza exhaust, 260 downpipe, in combination with the MSD 6A, blaster 2 coil, and ZX dizzy. -thanks

Well if I can figure out what kind the one I bought is, then I might be able to get serious about buying one. If the one I have will not work, I will try to find one of the ZX dizzys. In order for the ZX dizzy to work at all, does the ballast resistor have to be jumped?? Also, with the ZX dizzy and the MSD 6A, I have heard that I don't even need the E12-80 module, is that true??

I had bought a package off of ebay that included the msd6a, tack converter and a dizzy for a 240z. I was wondering if the dizzy I got was the elec. dizzy commonly used in the conversion. Could it be from a '79-81 zx? It doesn't have the vaccume advance attached to it, and the number on it is: D6F4-01 5505 22100N4201 -thanks

going on vacation on the 29th... Which would you prefer, zx dizzy or original 240 with pertronix ignitor??

Does anyone have the 79-81 dizzy with the E12-80 they would be willing to sell me, or do you know where I can buy one at a decent price?? I just purchased a MSD 6a with blaster 2 coil and tach adapter and want to get the most out of it.