Fentin_Fury

very true.

You can get the Euro damper through motorsport http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PEM06 and I know that this is a good peice. If you are turning big RPMs however you should consider the Nissan race damper through your local dealer - I will look up the part number when I get home.

I had my harmonic balancer disingrate as well this year. I am also know of two others that failed on the race track this year. This can be very BAD! In one case the keyway was destroyed and the oil pump gear did not turn - new engine. I invested in the Nissan racing HB - not inexpensive - but a must if you are turning big RPMs (more than 6000). Don't skimp here.

Please someone share their knowledge. I am in urgent need of a crank damper for an L28 - the OEM peice cannot deal with the RPM and the rubber goes away. I have found mention of the NISMO race damper - and I trust it is excellent. However ATI's Super Damper fo rthe L-28 looks interesting. One issue with this peice is that I have to mount the pulley to it somehow - to drive the alternator and water pump. Has anyone out there used this peice - Please help!

I just mounted mine - no drilling! New hanger plates for m bar though - must remove diff. Link:http://www.racerwheel.com/st-52095.html Suspension Techniques Sway Bar Kit (Front 1" & Rear 3/4") - 240Z 70-73 Suspension - Sway Bars - NISSAN - 240Z Manufacturer: Suspension Techniques Suspension Techniques Sway Bar Kit (Front 1" & Rear 3/4") - 240Z 70-73 Avail: Ship in 1-2 Business Days ST-52095 Quentin

I checked out your pictures - nice car! Ever consider coming North of the border to run in VARAC - I believe on June 25 the series will be running their big event at Mossport. Mossport is a very nice facility and a great track! There are a number of 240Z that run in this series. Q

I look forward to seeing your photos - did you make yours? Q

Anyone provide advise on finding/designing adjustable T/C rods for the 240Z? Help appreciated.

It appears there had been some repairs to my frame - at least new bolts and nuts welded in for the sway bar mount (front). The bolts were not metric but standard. I used a 1/4" plate spacer and remounted the new sway bar - clears the oil pump now. Everything seems good to go.

I see no indication of structural damage or modification - That was one of my first thoughts - a repositioning of the 4 mount points(slightly) through some clever frame restoration - but when I removed the four bolts I observed factory paint (orange) from the rails under many years of dirt and grime. I believe, also, that the control arm bushings are in correctly (although I will check now that I'm paranoid). If they are in backwards .....:stupid: I am using a 280ZXT oil pump - but they are not physically bigger are they? I don't have a standard 240 pump for comparison. On another note: just picked up (yesterday) some Toyo Proxie RA1 225/50/15 for lapping - need to get the bar on this weekend and I will - just may require some fabrication. Quentin

I agree - fitment on the back was excellent. It is a 1" bar on the front - I don't know if that matters. Let you know what happens on Friday. Q

Yes they are slotted - but not enough. I need to shift the mounts forward - but that will mess up the geometry on the end links. My original sway bar was fine - although tiny. I will try to shift away from the frame - keeping the endlinks vertical. I'll take pictures for those interested. Q

I just installed (tried to) suspension techniques sway bars in my 240Z - the rear went on fine after removal of the diff and replacing the diff/mustache bar hanging brackets. However, the front bar (bolt onROFL ) hits the oil pump as it moves through the suspension travel. This is not a particularly good thing:disappoin . I was wondering if others have experienced this and what their solution was - either moving the bar down or the bar towards the front - or both. thanks all Q

Any tips, suggestions, photos, on installing the autometer ultra-lite tach and speedo? How difficult is this - mounting wise. Thanks for the tips:D

Just in case anyone feels like messing with the original 240Z tach I have taken a number apart and replaced the old components with new. This does an excellent job of removing the "bounce" and erratic behaviour. Components to replace that I consider a must are the old capacitors and transistors. The capacitors are easily cross referenced but it took some time to find replacement transistors as the factory ones did not show up in any listing - must have been a Nissan spec unit. An even more critical replacement is the old style variable resistor. This unit is old style even for '69 and I suspect is the major cause of these tachs failures. I moved the resistor outside of the tach with a couple of long leads. This allows you to adjust the tach - set it to the correct RPM - without opening up or removing the tach from the dash.