John Coffey

Just be careful. There are a lot of no sales on eBay even though the reserve is met and the auction completes. That's a nice car and I would offer just under $20K if I was in the market. It will probably sell for more because my pricing tends to lag the market.

A kill switch with with an alternator ground is a good idea. Keeps from burning a diode if your alternator is internally regulated.

Outstanding product and I've used it for years to repair stub axle threads. You start from the root of the thread and work up. http://www.nes.co.il/158905/Nes-External-Thread-Repair

Its obvious you want a baffled pan when you have no real need for it. Here's the best available option. Part number 139-1006. http://www.dpracing.co/#!engine/c1pj

I autocrossed and tracked (track days only) a 240Z with a stock oil pan and turbo oil pump. With 5 qts of oil I would see flickering on the oil pressure gauge at Willow Springs in Turn 2 which is long (sustained 10 seconds) right hand turn. The car could pull 1.25G in that corner for that amount of time. I never worried about it. Engine lasted for 10 years and finally got rebuilt as part of an upgrade. No internal oil related issues ever.

Hargerty speculates a lot and they are mostly wrong.

The Arizona Z Car oil pan is fine for a street car. Its OK for competition use but it has a drain back problem if the car is run at sustained high rpm on a race track. Autocross use is fine. An oil cooler is mostly unnecessary on a street car unless, again, you run at sustained high rpm. Tony D had oil temp issues running across west Texas in the summer at 110mph. Most everyone else won't because street drivers rarely run above 4,500 rpm for any length of time.

Don't bother to blast the powder coating off. Sand it, bondo it, sand it, and send it out for paint.

I'm pretty sure this is the car that was at Pierre's Z for a long time.

Looks like a Tilton to me. There should be that manufacturers name stamped on it along with the Nissan part number 12310-F1011 for the 225mm unit and 12310-F1013 for the 240mm unit. The replacement friction center is Nissan part number 12311-F1011 for the 225mm. The replacement friction center for the 240mm is NLA.

MSA, Zedd Findings, and Tabco.

The Bad Dog frame rails/subframe connectors are two parts as shown above. Weld them together. There are also John and Pete's pics of the extensive frame prep for the BRE cars. One big thing that helps in front is a tubular brace going from the outside of the TC rod mount to the inner front of the rocker panel. Its crosses the rear of the wheel well. Another good reinforcement is to box the connection of the lower and upper frame rails behind the rear of the front fender. If you guys go on Facebook and find the old Betamotorsports page you'll see a lot of reinforcement I just did for the Peking to Paris endurance rally car.

Bad Dog Parts makes weld in subframes. Regarding the Fox body Mustang, I built an NASA AIX 1991 hatchback for a customer in Seattle. You basically have to replace the rear suspension and the front K member and suspension to make those cars handle. A lot of work.

Don't change gearing to fix an exhaust problem. Add an 18" resonator in the tunnel.

FYI... One of the issues Daryl found when he disassembled the engine was two piston pins had walked and were scraping the cylinder walls. They were worn and undersize by .010". I guess a micrometer is beyond someone's skill level.