John Coffey

Thanks. We are so frickin' busy. I found where the money is in the automotive world.

Sorry, not selling the Bilstein setup for the S30 anymore.

Read up here: Strut Sectioning FAQ - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis - HybridZ

I didn't say the shocks were junk. I said they were inexpensive. If you read the thread over on Hybridz and check out the reviews in the various BMW forums for Stagg's E36 shocks people are generally happy and are getting 20 to 40K miles out of the shocks since 2010. I've know Jack for a few years and we traded a bunch of shock dyno charts during the development of these units for the S30. I don't have any first hand experience with these shocks but I trust that Jack got the valving right for the shock and spring combination he is selling. FYI... Jack was one of the largest warehouse distributors for Tokico products before they screwed him and the rest of us in 2011.

They are made in China and are made as inexpensively as possible. But you are also being charged accordingly. These are for a stock installation or for very mild (1") lowering.

The stock S30 suspension has about 3 to 3.5" of bump travel at the strut. If you remove 2" of that by lowering without shortening the strut tube, you will be bottoming the suspension on the foot valve in the bottom of the shock (Monroe, Tokico, and KYB all have foot valves). That will quickly destroy the foot valve and the shock will be junk - hence the warning by KYB not to use their shocks with lowering springs. Same is true for Monroe. You can add some good progressive bump stops but now you are reducing available bump travel further and, in essence, you will be riding on the bump stops. If looks are more important to you them performance, go for it.

If you have to pump the pedal to build brake pressure you have air in the hydraulic system. Do a proper MC bleed and then properly bleed the rest of the brake system.

There is also a special R180 diff cover gasket for the front diff in 4x4 720 pickup that has a shield that covers the vent hole in the bottom of the vent tube. That stops most oil venting out the tube. I also drilled and tapped the hole int he cover, put in a brass barbed fitting, and ran a loop of tubing.

New R&P for long nose R200s are basically NLA. You might get lucky if you call Nissan Motorsports directly and they can find something on the shelf.

From the first recall notice: " In these models, the weight on the key ring and/or road conditions or some other jarring event may cause the ignition switch to move out of the run position, turning off the engine." GM engineers noticed the problem during normal road testing back in the early 2000s when only the key was in the ignition. Adding any weight to the key ring (including the stock alarm fob) exacerbates the problem.

The "heavy key ring" thing is misdirection. If you read the NHTSA reports the ignition switches will shut off with only the original key in place. Happened 65 times as the cars were driven off the factory assembly line.

A header is not an exhaust and vice versa. You don't need several gaskets to keep the header leak free. One good one with a proper installation works just fine.

Unless you're doing a LOT of sheet metal work, the cost isn't justified. Just use self tapping sheet metal screws.

There's no difference and as long as you replaced the bearing races in the hub when you replaced your wheel bearings you'll be fine.

"Mulholland Race Course?" Seriously? Someone calls it that? Its a public road and heavily patrolled by the police. I ride it frequently on my Ducati going to the Rock Store and other local bars. It is not a race course by any stretch of the imagination and usually its so crowded with wankers who have no clue what they are doing you're rarely going faster then 40 mph. This is typical:

I would media blast it, paint it with high temp paint, and put it back on.

The most expensive transmission shop in the world would charge $750 to rebuild a Nissan Type B 4 speed. $500 should get a solid rebuild with new synchros.

Silicone caps from McMaster-Carr. Good to 600 degrees F and 300 psi.

I threw my halfshaft info up on the FB page.

$200 for quality bearings and seals that you will never have to touch again for the rest of your life is cheap.

No such thing as a long nose Carrera S sold here in the USA. There were Carrera RSs in 1973 and 1974 but those are $250K cars in excellent condition. A 1967 911S in excellent condition is a $175K car. No 1968 911Ss were imported into the USA (well, maybe a couple). A 1969 911S is a $140K car in excellent condition. We have a 1969 911S Sunroof/AC car in the shop in driver condition and the customer is thinking about selling it for the six figures. Porsche 912s are $40 to $70K cars now with the 1965 painted dash cars being worth the most money.

Its really not necessary for heat dissipation. The oil is required in the FSM because the strut tube itself is the outer body of the shock and the oil you pour in is the actual damping medium. I just spray some Kroil, Rost-Off or other anti-corrosion penetrating oil inside the strut tube and coat the shock body with grease.

I talked with my composites builder and he has decided to sell parts retail. Before he only made parts for shops and race teams. Stan will be making, selling, and shipping the old Betamotorsports S30/S130 hoods and S30 hatches in fiberglass and carbon fiber as his first product line. I've turned the tooling over to him. This is the same shop that has been building these parts for me since 2003. The contact information is: Benchmark Composites (562) 860-7769 stan@benchmarkcomposites.com BENCHMARK COMPOSITES He is working on a new website, never really finished the old one. FYI... I'm no longer in the loop on these parts, talk with Stan directly.

Never, ever buy a diff that's supposedly a LSD without having the seller pull the cover and send you pics.

Nope. 4 pinion open diff. What looks like a LSD is just the carrier for the outer ends of the cross shaft.