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John Coffey

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Everything posted by John Coffey

  1. I've put air temps sensors in the engine bay of a S30. The underhood temps are within 5 to 10 degrees of ambient at any speed above 20mph, except withing 6" of the radiator exit. By design the underhood air exhausts down under the car at road speeds. On my race car I ran a cone filter in front of the radiator mainly for packaging reasons (custom intake manifold with the throttle body at the front) and because that cone filter would be about 2" from the radiator exit.
  2. Wow! 66 lbs.! That's really heavy for a 240Z exhaust.
  3. As you've learned, to determine if a differential is an LSD you must take the cover off. There is NO other way to accurately determine this. And I don't think that's a R190, looks like a regular R180 to me.
  4. Clamp a straight price of flat stock at least 1/8" thick to the sheet metal and cut along that line.
  5. Fix your linkage and make sure the throttle plates are in sync. It sounds like your idle is too lean. If you're idle mixture screw is out more then 1 turn you need to richen the idle jet. The idle circuit in a Weber DCOE is not just for idle. I is critical to engine running up to about 2,000 rpm. If you have a stumble around 2,100 to 2,500, which is about where the carbs transition to the mains, you're idle circuit is also too lean or you have the wrong emulsion tubes in the carb.
  6. Outside corner of the floor pan for a two post lift.
  7. Under the frame rail at the TC rod bucket and under the back outside corner of the floor pan (seatbelt retractor buckets if your car has them).
  8. I wasn't offering an opinion about whether the SU or the Holley induction is better. Both can work well with proper tuning and Nissan sold the 240Z with a downdraft DAF carb outside the USA.
  9. So, you're comparing a poorly tuned Holley induction setup with a poorly tuned SU induction setup and concluding that the best running poorly tuned setup is the Holley? Thanks for that...
  10. It can be worth the money when you find a buyer in Japan.
  11. It doesn't matter who built them or what S30 they fit. They are no longer available anywhere for any model S30. Buy them now before someone else does. Don't even wait a month.
  12. Take the wheel and tire off and post a pic from that side. They look like 300ZX calipers from the back.
  13. I think the lap time issue at Cal Speedway had more to do with aero then grip or non-grip. The front 285s stuck out a bit past the front valance and probably added some drag over 100mph.
  14. I used to time trial my Nissan 350Z with NASA in their TTC class. At California Speedway the car was 1 second per lap faster on 245/45-18s then on 285-30-18s. I figured it was because the car spent so much more time over 100mph on that track. Conversely, at Buttonwillow the car was about 1 second per lap faster on the 285s. Tighter track.
  15. My mistake regarding the LY head.
  16. That appears to be the LY crossflow head made by Nissan to homologate for FIA Group 4. Pretty rare and very expensive.
  17. They are not a safety upgrade. Purely a driving feel, customer complaint issue at least here in the US. I don't know if this part was added to cars in other markets.
  18. The clamp and bumper help reduce steering kickback and give a better feel to the steering. It was a fix done by Nissan to resolve customer complaints and it works.
  19. Roll bars also increase ride rate over one wheel bumps. And end links shouldn't have any affect over lateral load transfer if they are installed correctly and adjusted correctly.
  20. Don't know. I just did a search and came up with six 1970/71 240Zs, one of which is a shell. Maybe your search tool misses some.
  21. I don't understand all this discussion about cutting yokes, disassembling diffs, etc. The side axles and the STI R180 are as close to bolt-in as anything made for the S30. Yes, I had one pair of side axles where the center section was slightly smaller on OD and Steve was the lucky guy to get those. He had a local machinist fix it and IRRC I sent him $30 per his request. The yoke above has internal splines while side axles require external splines. This ain't rocket science guys. Just put the bolts in the flange, put the side axles in the diff, and swap the front pinion flange.
  22. Send him an e-mail or call. You'll save some money if you can send him a good core.
  23. Again, read the threads on Hybridz about the bolts for the side axles. Courtesy got it wrong for me and it took two months to get a refund on my credit card.
  24. I've never seen a rubber bushing "torn up" from use. They crack, fail, come apart from age, ozone, and oil. What polyurethane bushings give you is more accurate suspension locating under load - the suspension geometry changes less under load as a result of bushing deflection. This is only a concern if you're re driving at 9 or 10/10ths which is nearly impossible on the street if you value your life. OEM style rubber bushings work fine in all cases except for autocross and track use. What a lot of people make the mistake of doing is comparing worn out rubber bushings with new poly bushings and then claiming that poly is so much better. The same false comparisons occur for brakes, engine, transmissions, differentials, seats, etc.
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