John Coffey

Pikers... I made mine out of a titanium/aluminum/ceramic honeycomb. Beta Motorsports, LLC Bench Racing

So... you're removed 800+ pounds from the car and are worried about the alignment?

Weed whackers and rice burners.

Betamotorsports, LLC is merging with Benton Performance, LLC. John Benton and I are merging our talent and equipment in an expanded shop in the same Lambert Palm business complex. By the end of the year Betamotorsports will cease to exist as a business entity and we will continue under the Benton Performance brand. Benton Performance will continue to serve Betamotorsports racing customers and will continue with our Datsun expertise, augmenting Benton Performances extensive expertise in early air cooled Porsches (356, 912, and 911s). Benton Performance | Porsche 900 Series and 356 Service and Restoration

"Strut" means the tube. I have all the numbers and they are all entered into Mitchell's various suspension and chassis software programs. Considering I paid $1,000 for the software, a week measuring a S30 on a surface plate, and a couple days entering and analyzing the info I don't give it out to people on internet message boards. :-)

Nope. The 280Z rear strut is 1.25" taller then the 240Z rear strut.

The bolts are considered 10mm (M10 x 1.25p).

Sounds like things are already well tuned.

Its not crap. It works. I know a number of racers that run the Evans products. Its also completely unnecessary for a street driven car and most race cars, its expensive, you have to COMPLETELY empty and dry out your entire cooling system before using the stuff, and in some cases you need to upgrade your water pump. I know of one person racing a L6 that uses this and he upgraded to the LD28 water pump. Solved problems he was having with cooling cylinders 5 and 6. A simpler solution to cooling 5 and 6 on high horsepower L6 engines (300 NA and 350+ turbo) is discussed in this thread on Hybridz: Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions? - L-Series - HybridZ

Exactly! Plus the engine fan will cool the front of the exhaust manifold more then the back. I've very skeptical that an engine can be tuned with an IR gun.

German engineering at its finest. Have fun in the Super Adventure Club. :-) The Return of Chef (Season 10, Episode 1) - Full Episode Player - South Park Studios

Well... I ran a 4130 tube, 5/16" OD, .083" wall and had no flexing at all with two rod end mounts.

I would fill the center mounting hole with JB Weld high temp (part number 8265-S) and then drill and tap in the correct location.

Here in SoCal I just scrapped a half a dozen 3:36 R180s. 12 cents a pound.

For the air filter fitment the thing that matters most is the distance from the carb body to the end of the velocity stack. I have an ITG air filter here and the distance from the mounting plate on the carb body to the top (end) of the filter is 3.5".

4" air horns might fit but they will be right up against the air filter top. Not a good idea.

Shell Rotella T Triple Protection has all the stuff you need and is designed for 2006 and earlier diesel engines. API CJ4. But oil selection doesn't matter much for a street engine that spends 95% of its time under light load.

BTW... I'm guilty of the mis-matched wheels mistake - to the tune of $1,300 in my case. Rear End Steering Under Power - Drivetrain - HybridZ

Mis-matched wheels and tires on an axle will cause the behavior you describe. The issue has nothing to do with the differential mounting.

Webers have trouble with fuel pressure over about 4psi. Its important to run a fuel pressure regulator.

Mid to late 260Z strut tubes are a larger OD/ID, the spring seats are at a different height, and the rear tubes are considerably longer then the 240Z strut tubes.

You're probably seeing a small toe change under load that is exacerbated by speed. Most likely in the rear suspension. Either the inner or outer rear LCA bushings are worn or installed incorrectly, your lower control arm(s) are bent, the rear transverse link is bent, the front diff cross member is loose or cracked, or something's not tight. Also, crap tires can do this. Try swapping tires front to back and see if the problem goes away.

Also remember that the urethane inner lower control arm bushing needs a tightening process different then what's in the FSM. The OEM bushing relies on the hysteresis of the rubber for movement while the urethane busing rotates around the inner metal bushing. Tightening the 14mm bolt to the factory spec can seriously bind the bushing in place. I've had customer cars come in where the bushing is so bound I could almost do a pullup in the control arm before it moved. Before putting the strut back on the arm, tighten the control arm bolt to the factory spec and make sure the arm moves easily. If it doesn't, back off on the bolt torque. I also suggest using new Nylock nuts every time.

Me being a little nit-picky... There's a big thread on HybridZ about the L6 cooling system. To summarize, pure water has a higher heat capacity then a water/coolant mix. What that means is that the actual coolant temperature is lower for the same amount of BTU input with straight water. Increasing system pressure increases the boiling point of water by 3 degrees per PSI. A typical 15 psi cap gives you boiling point of straight water of 257 degrees. A 20 psi cap (which your aluminum radiator can handle) gets you boiling point of 272 degrees. The actual boiling point is lower then those number due to localized hot spots (the exhaust ports and valve seats) causing nucleate boiling. Most racers will run straight water with Redline's Water Wetter for corrosion resistance and its surficant properties - and because race tracks don't allow any glycol style coolant.

OK, that makes a lot of sense. Looks like a good coating shop. You can carefully drill out the rivets and then either re-rivet or drill and tap for machine screws. If you go for the machine screw route be sure to use red Loctite when installing them.