John Coffey

Which R180 LSD? There is the Nissan factory part, the Nissan Motorsports part, the Powerbrute part, the Quiafe, the OS Giken Super Lock, the Gleason/Torsen, and probably a couple others I can't remember.

The 50-50 coolant mix recommendations are for cold climates. In Florida you can easily run a 25-75 mix (coolant-water) and have plenty of protection. And the coolant does not coat the radiator or engine coolant passages. It just makes the water less conductive.

Ignore duty cycle. Hobbyists will almost never weld enough to have that be a concern. I second the Lincoln 135 recommendations and I have one for small portable jobs. Also, spend the the extra money for a gas setup - skip the flux core wire. All automotive welding is considered light fabrication. There is nothing you'll ever build for a car that requires any steel thicker then 1/8" - if what you're building is properly designed.

Why do you want to remove the baffle? If you're powder coating the cover just have them mask off the inside if the valve cover so no coating gets in there.

Godspeed Enrique.

Again, rust inhibitors are effective on new, clean metal. They are not effective on rusty metal. If it makes you feel better to spray these products into 40+ year old, uninspected body cavities on your S30, got for it.

In my example that rust was still going on. The inner and out parts of the rocker panel has lots of nice, fresh rust. I know people want to believe a little liquid magic will solve their problem, but it won't. And even if the magic liquid worked as advertised, there's no way to get good coverage spraying through a little hole into a large cavity with multiple layers of metal. Now, if the metal is clean then these products can prevent rust and are worth the effort. I spray Wurth's Body Cavity Protection Spray into new, clean metal, repaired sections on car. But even the Wurth guy who's trying to sell me gallons of this stuff says that once there's rust in the cavities, the spray doesn't do anything. If there is rust already in those cavities, all this stuff does is add to the cost of the final, correct repair.

I've repaired probably 30 rusty 240Zs over the years and many have been after the owners sprayed POR15, Rust Stop, and many other rust fixers, encapsulators, penetrants, waxes, etc. trying to stop the rust. None of them worked. In fact, they just added to the cost of the repairs because I had to get all that crap off the good metal to do any welding. Here's a picture of one that had a bunch of rust inhibitor sprayed in the rear of the rocker and up over the wheel well. All it did was stick the rust together.

If there is already rust in those cavities these sprays do little to nothing to slow or stop the progression of rust. It might make you feel better.

I use Wurth 890-100-060 sound deadening mats. Exact same stuff used by BMW in their new cars.

C'mon man, you're smarter then that. :-)

The offset aluminum/delrin rear inner LCA bushings have been used fro decades on race cars. The do allow a very precise adjustment of toe, camber, tracking, and roll center at the back of the car but its time consuming. When I put those on the back of a customer car it takes 4 to 6 hours to get the alignment right. You don't just put them in place and start twisting. Also, that toe adjuster cobbled into the rear transverse link in the other thread is a scary piece of work. I would never have anything like that on my cars and I would never put it on any of my customer cars.

Silvermine has a good reputation.

The OBX is a Chinese copy of the Pacesetter header.

The diff was moved back more for vibration then noise. If you have a diff whine check your front diff mount to make sure its not worn with metal to metal contact anywhere. Also, check the front diff cross member for cracks.

I think the Z432 is a different homogenization document.

If you're going custom, I can make a set of headers for the L6. Probably $2,500 to 3,000. Here's a pic of a stainless turbo header I built for an A-Mod race car.

Alan and I both have the complete 3023 document set (along with a couple others on here). In my case I paid $195 for the set from ACCUS/FIA with the certification stamps, so I generally don't scan and paste pages from it on internet forums. I do sometimes answer questions.

Although probably not relevant, I do have a page of the 3023 document that lists the Jatco automatic as legal for Group 3 starting May 1973. Not that anyone every ran one... :-)

I just spent a couple hours yesterday down at EMI Racing. Erik showed me a set of "cheap" headers for a 2nd gen ACR Viper - $2,500.00 and they are crap. $900 for the Stahl's is a actually pretty reasonable price. That $900 comparable to a good set of long tube headers for a LS1 Camaro (Kooks).

Stahl is now making their headers again. They are not cheap but they are the best available right now.

Maybe checking u-joint articulation while the driveshaft was out of the car... You should be able to get to the zirc using a 1/4" drive deep socket of the correct size.

$73.95 for an all new Nissan strut mounts is a very, very reasonable price for a part that will last 30 years.

Yes but you need to plug the hole at the back of the head and plug the intake at the water neck.

Oh geez... You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him fish.